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Removing GPU heatsink...screws...striping - Page 2

post #11 of 22
I had the same issue with my 570. I ended up stripping one on the bracket and the one that connects the bracket to the PCB. They felt like they were made out of lead or something.

I called EVGA and got screwed around (haha see what I did there?) by them asking for a ton of pictures and crap like that. But they eventually sent the two screws to me and they came out with a rubber band a bigger screwdriver.

I believe the new ones are all Philips. Which really bothers me because Torx were much easier to use and not have to worry about stripping them. Philips are probably cheaper for Nvidia.
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post #12 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by lazu View Post
Yeah, I'm gonna give it another go here. Just need to rest up the torque hand.
Told this to my girlfriend once and she slapped me...
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post #13 of 22
Thread Starter 
Yeah mine are all Philips, too.

Alright, I'm heading out to the hardware store. Going to pick up a grabit screw extractor (I've got a bad black and decker one but I've heard good stuff about the grab it.) Also, going to find the fattest Phillips #0 I can find.

When I get back, here's going to be my order of attack:
1.) try fat philips #0
2.) try screw extractor
3.) try just drilling it out
4.) dremel
5.) RMA

Y'know, I've heard that some manufacturers use some blue screw lock. I swear, the screws on the plastic shroud-thing are seriously stuck in place. I wonder if EVGA just wants you to buy the Hyrdocopper. Meh.
    
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post #14 of 22
Thread Starter 
Grabit screw extractor + my power drill works. Good lord, EVGA. Please use easier to remove screws lol.
    
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post #15 of 22
Yep. Pointy philips just works its self out of the screw. I have these little cheapy chinese phillips that are flat. Works every time.

Top is pointy, bottom is flat.






Also Japan uses their own type of phillips screws and phillip screw drivers. You'd defenently find this out if you've ever worked on a japanese carburator.
Edited by Rangerscott - 5/13/11 at 11:56am
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post #16 of 22
Drill out the screw, it is very easy and almost no risk.
    
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post #17 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangerscott View Post
Yep. Pointy philips just works its self out of the screw. I have these little cheapy chinese phillips that are flat. Works every time.

Top is pointy, bottom is flat.




Also Japan uses their own type of phillips screws and phillip screw drivers. You'd defenently find this out if you've ever worked on a japanese carburator.

Block is on now

I drilled out all the screws with an extractor. Was a bit weirded out about it, but nothing LOOKS broken lol. I did scratch the PCB a bit (but not too badly) on the first one...before I got my "rhythm" down.

But, man, I wish I knew about the Chinese drivers...that looks like it would've worked perfectly...ah well, always next grafx card.

Anyway -- everyone -- thanks for all of the help. I can't try it out for a few days because it's fiancee hangout time...but it looks like it's mounted relatively well.
    
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post #18 of 22
right tool = flawless results

screwdrives do have sizes too, they vary the width of the teeth on the phillips +

if the tip of the screwdriver is engaging the screw head before the teeth, your screwdriver is too small.
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post #19 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by lazu View Post
Block is on now

I drilled out all the screws with an extractor. Was a bit weirded out about it, but nothing LOOKS broken lol. I did scratch the PCB a bit (but not too badly) on the first one...before I got my "rhythm" down.

But, man, I wish I knew about the Chinese drivers...that looks like it would've worked perfectly...ah well, always next grafx card.

Anyway -- everyone -- thanks for all of the help. I can't try it out for a few days because it's fiancee hangout time...but it looks like it's mounted relatively well.
If you scratched the PCB at all I would suggest making sure the card works. All it takes is one tiny little trace to get screwed up and the card won't run properly.
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post #20 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by lazu View Post
I want to downward force it into the floor....then I remember it costs $500.

Yeah, I'm gonna give it another go here. Just need to rest up the torque hand.

I think the problem is with the screws which don't have a way to be held in place (I easily removed the ones on the part of the card that sits flat, it's the side screws and the screws on the end (near the fan) which are troublesome.
use your other hand to hold the card, and apply as much pressure as you can with the screw driver. The harder you push, the less likely it is to strip.
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