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Photographing animals from a distance - Page 4

post #31 of 45
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrwesth;13492031 
What is your photographic background full tilt?
Nature photography is not only expensive, it is fairly technical and requires good timing to get many shots.

I do a lot of portraiture, mostly just environmental portraits of people acting natural. Not studio type stuff. Besides that its just a mix of things, mostly experimental photography playing with light and long exposures.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CalypsoRaz;13492074 
screw that, get a gun.

I kid. If you're doing nature photography maybe a blind? or in some cases, I've heard of a large mirror being used but angled slightly downward to reflect the immediate surroundings rather than some generic image or pattern.

Intended for hunting but I dont see why photography is out of the question Ghost Blind

Thats interesting, Ive never seen such a thing. I bet that creates quite a bit of cover when in the foliage.
post #32 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by Full_Tilt;13492056 
Well since I already have a 200mm @2.5 could I use a teleconverter or a tube to get the effect of those more expensive lenses?

Do you know how much effect it has on the effective aperature. Would it be possible to use something like that in low light? or am I looking at getting some high end glass?

200 2.8 you mean?

a good 1.4 converter will bring your aperture to f4, a cheap third party will bring it to f5.6 or higher. A 2x will bring you to f5.6.

With new bodies like the 1d mark IV or the pinnacle of ISO performance in the nikon d3s, yes you can bump your iso up to 3200 and get good results shooting 500 f4 3200 well into dusk.

EDIT**
Quote:
Originally Posted by Full_Tilt;13492079 
I do a lot of portraiture, mostly just environmental portraits of people acting natural. Not studio type stuff. Besides that its just a mix of things, mostly experimental photography playing with light and long exposures.
Well what body are you currently using? You will want something with decent fps unless you have really good timing and been doing it for a while. At a minimum I'd say a 60d-7d
post #33 of 45
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrwesth;13492102 
200 2.8 you mean?

a good 1.4 converter will bring your aperture to f4, a cheap third party will bring it to f5.6 or higher. A 2x will bring you to f5.6.

With new bodies like the 1d mark IV or the pinnacle of ISO performance in the nikon d3s, yes you can bump your iso up to 3200 and get good results shooting 500 f4 3200 well into dusk.

No its a 2.5, its an older manual focus lens

So with my 2:1 teleconverter Im not losing too much light I guess.
My pentax k100d doesnt have a super high max ISO but its a lot better about the noise than my Canon XT is, so maybe I could get away with using it.
post #34 of 45
Instead of using a big zoom lens, try using a nice wide short lens..
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post #35 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by Full_Tilt;13492133 
No its a 2.5, its an older manual focus lens

So with my 2:1 teleconverter Im not losing too much light I guess.
My pentax k100d doesnt have a super high max ISO but its a lot better about the noise than my Canon XT is, so maybe I could get away with using it.

With pentax the 200 is about is much reach as you can get. And with the k100d's iso algorithm you won't be able to shoot over 2.5 so a teleconverter is out of the question. Your alternative here is to try to shoot the animals when they are grazing or perched and use a slower shutter to compensate for low ambient. You could try panning birds in flight or animals running, but that is hard enough with a really good af tracking... will most likely just be frustrating in full manual.

Again, sports/wildlife photography is VERY expensive.

EDIT**
anyway hope this helps and wasn't too discouraging. I need to run to the post office and then back out to work. Good luck.
Edited by mrwesth - 5/13/11 at 12:20pm
post #36 of 45
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrwesth;13492235 
With pentax the 200 is about is much reach as you can get. And with the k100d's iso algorithm you won't be able to shoot over 2.5 so a teleconverter is out of the question. Your alternative here is to try to shoot the animals when they are grazing or perched and use a slower shutter to compensate for low ambient. You could try panning birds in flight or animals running, but that is hard enough with a really good af tracking... will most likely just be frustrating in full manual.

Again, sports/wildlife photography is VERY expensive.

EDIT**
anyway hope this helps and wasn't too discouraging. I need to run to the post office and then back out to work. Good luck.

Thanks for all the help!
post #37 of 45
Unnecessary trolls are unnecessary.

In terms of photography from a distance, you've got some decent information going here. As mentioned, decent gear for stuff like this can get expensive in a hurry. If you saw some of the gear lists for bird watchers, you may or may not have a stroke. That being said, you get what you pay for.

The camera you have should be OK in decent available light situations, but I like the recommendation of moving up to a 60D or 7D if possible. 60Ds can be had refurbed for $799 and they are worth just about every penny. In terms of lenses, TCs have been mentioned - decent TCs will only add one stop @ 1.4x, two stops at 2x.

You could always rent a relatively expensive lens (100-400 f/4) or something like that. If you end up using it alot and liking it, you can start saving up (or you could just be independently wealthy and my misconception that everyone is relatively blue collar like me could be off like it always is).

Also, dont get discouraged by the abundance of non-relevant responses you got. For the most part, the regulars in the photography part of OCN are very knowledgeable, friendly and helpful.

With the exception of Dudemanppl of course. biggrin.gif
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post #38 of 45
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MistaBernie;13492437 
Unnecessary trolls are unnecessary.

In terms of photography from a distance, you've got some decent information going here. As mentioned, decent gear for stuff like this can get expensive in a hurry. If you saw some of the gear lists for bird watchers, you may or may not have a stroke. That being said, you get what you pay for.

The camera you have should be OK in decent available light situations, but I like the recommendation of moving up to a 60D or 7D if possible. 60Ds can be had refurbed for $799 and they are worth just about every penny. In terms of lenses, TCs have been mentioned - decent TCs will only add one stop @ 1.4x, two stops at 2x.

You could always rent a relatively expensive lens (100-400 f/4) or something like that. If you end up using it alot and liking it, you can start saving up (or you could just be independently wealthy and my misconception that everyone is relatively blue collar like me could be off like it always is).

Also, dont get discouraged by the abundance of non-relevant responses you got. For the most part, the regulars in the photography part of OCN are very knowledgeable, friendly and helpful.

With the exception of Dudemanppl of course. biggrin.gif

Thank you.

They dont get that Im talking about versatility here. Ive havent done much telephoto stuff in general, Id like to get into nature photography in particular, but the same skill set can be applied to photographing people, like at sporting events.
I think the whole "not wanting to be seen" thing is what is bothering everybody.
I guess they dont understand what its like being a photographer and having people constantly bothering you about what youre doing photographing random things in public places. Ive been run off by people on multiple occasions because they think Im some sort of inspector or a PI or something.
post #39 of 45
...just make sure you phrase your sentences properly and don't get "mixed up" with your ideas..
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post #40 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by Full_Tilt;13492493 
Thank you.

They dont get that Im talking about versatility here. Ive havent done much telephoto stuff in general, Id like to get into nature photography in particular, but the same skill set can be applied to photographing people, like at sporting events.
I think the whole "not wanting to be seen" thing is what is bothering everybody.
I guess they dont understand what its like being a photographer and having people constantly bothering you about what youre doing photographing random things in public places. Ive been run off by people on multiple occasions because they think Im some sort of inspector or a PI or something.

There's a trick that works about 90% of the time when you get confronted like that.

Put your camera down, smile, stick out your hand and say 'Hi, I'm xxx, I'm sorry, have we met?' 50% of the time, it works all the time.
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