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CAR radiator water cooling? - Page 2

post #11 of 24
Thread Starter 
Yeah, I think it would also be pretty damn cool to see.

I could imagine someone setting up their Quad SLI\Crossfire setup with an 8 core Intel CPU, with all of their memory sticks on this one radiator biggrin.gif
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post #12 of 24
There are plenty 100% copper radiators available. Just search for them on Ebay. I also recommend rockauto.com That is the most extensive car part website I have ever personally found.

Mixing copper and aluminum is not a problem if you put the proper corrosion inhibitors in your loop. But if you don't use the inhibitors it will be a disaster.

Also, it can be difficult connecting the small tubing used in PC cooling to the rather large inlet and outlets of a car radiator. The tubing used in cars is much much larger than the tubing used in PCs. You have to get pretty creative in how you step up and down in size.

A third option is the heater core or oil cooler from a car. These are just like small radiators but have small inlet and outlets that are easy to connect tubing to.

If you want a absolutely monster radiator for a decent price I suggest looking at a Dodge V10 pickup radiator. For about $175 you can have a ridiculous radiator. I think it is a complete rip off how much PC radiators cost for their size when you start looking at car radiators.

Lastly, check out eastwood radiator paint if you want a heat conductive black paint for your radiators.
Edited by Epitope - 5/13/11 at 12:04pm
    
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post #13 of 24
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the info, I can tell this has already been researched by a lot of people.

I can see how easier it would be to setup a heater core instead of a car radiator. I looked up some pictures online and the pipe connectors are much smaller.

Are the pipes and fins on these heater cores just as small as the PC versions?

It would be nice to see some temp numbers and to see an actual member's setup.
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post #14 of 24
Setting up a car radiator to work in a water cooling loop wouldnt be that difficult. There are plenty of plumbing adapters that you could use to step up and down.

However, there is one inherent problem with it. In order for a radiator to do its job, the coolant NEEDS to spend a predetermined amount of time to radiate the heat. Hence cars have thermostats that regulate this. If you have a constant flow of coolant, it wont be able to dissipate any heat into he metal and then to the air.
An automotive radiator, even a small one, would be WAY too big. Bigger is not better in this case. Not to mention the size of the fan youd need to move air to cover he entire surface area would be huge and very noisy.

A heater core would be a much more realistic option.
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post #15 of 24
radiator001.jpg

Picked up a brass 86 Camaro Heatercore from my local Autozone for $16.50. Spent $15 on a propane torch for sweat welding the NPT females(copper 90* and straight angle in pic). Did the sweat weld, just like doing a threadless bathroom plumbing job. Then for my redundancy in safety, when the welds were cool I tested with 18psi air pressure and found zero leaks in the rad. After the test I JB welded over the sweat welds. Once those dried I sanded the JB for a smooth look. After all modifications were finished I did a light coat of black paint.

47c at load playing Just Cause 2 after several hours. That is with the new configuration though. No pics at this time!

Here was the first ever mounting. Yes, 100% zip-tie mounted!

VistaBox014.jpg
post #16 of 24
Thread Starter 
Wow, really cool setup! thumb.gif +1 Rep

Regarding that thermostat explanation....

Do you have any king of thermostat in your setup? are you just running a constant flow of water?

What kind of water pump are you using?
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post #17 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackOmega;13492240 
However, there is one inherent problem with it. In order for a radiator to do its job, the coolant NEEDS to spend a predetermined amount of time to radiate the heat. Hence cars have thermostats that regulate this. If you have a constant flow of coolant, it wont be able to dissipate any heat into he metal and then to the air.
An automotive radiator, even a small one, would be WAY too big. Bigger is not better in this case. Not to mention the size of the fan youd need to move air to cover he entire surface area would be huge and very noisy.

No, the coolant can move as fast it needs.... It's not like X molecule must spend X amount of time to transfer all of the extra thermal energy. Look at it as a fluid, thermal differences will cause the energy to be transferred to other molecules anyways.

You also don't need a fan across the entire surface. A 480mm rad with one fan will still out perform a 120mm rad with one fan.
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post #18 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestef;13492041 
Yeah, I think it would also be pretty damn cool to see.

I could imagine someone setting up their Quad SLI\Crossfire setup with an 8 core Intel CPU, with all of their memory sticks on this one radiator biggrin.gif

If you go with a large aluminum radiator, remember not to mix any brass or copper into the loop to keep electrolysis from occurring. You do not want electrolysis to occur inside you loop, it will build corrosion and clog the loop.
post #19 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestef;13492130 
Are the pipes and fins on these heater cores just as small as the PC versions?

Yes, PC radiators are heater cores of specific size with shrouds attached, plus black paint and a 100% markup smile.gif


Two rads you should look at first:
'68 pontiac bonnieville 6.5 x 10.5 x 2.5 (2 120 mm fans, thickest rad you will find)
'77 dodge b200 van 9.5 x 9.75 x 2 (exactly the size of 4 120mm fans)
Edited by wimcle - 5/13/11 at 12:40pm
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post #20 of 24
hmm I"m pulling the heater core out of my trans am in a few weeks (turbo motor build). might put it to good use.
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