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Need to redo my TIM, going to do it right.

post #1 of 19
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So, I had no idea I was supposed to replace my Arctic Silver 5 every 12 months, and I've had it on there since Janurary of 09. No only that but I used the credit card method as opposed to the line method (which I hear is the best?). So I just want to make sure I do it right this time. Should I get Shin-Etsu X23 or IC Diamond 7, or is there even a better alternative? AS5 is easy to aquire, but I'm not a fan of the cure time anymore. So yeah... all thoughts and suggestions welcome. Application method, TIM type, anything.
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post #2 of 19
I would say x23 and IC7 and about the same. I would get which ever one is easier and cheaper for you to get.

Edit: I used IC7, if you get that put the whole syringe in a cup of warm water for a few minutes right before you apply it, it will make it alot easier.
Edited by 6speed - 5/14/11 at 3:21am
 
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post #3 of 19
Honestly, it's all the same crap - just get whatever you can get at a good price.

I use Arctic Silver 5, so the advice I'm giving probably won't work with thick TIMs such as Shin-Etsu and IC7.

The first thing I do is use 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean the CPU and heatsink. I recommend using coffee filters to do this.
The next thing I do is place a tiny amount of TIM on the CPU and rub it around with a coffee filter until I can't see it anymore, essentially "tinting" the CPU. The reason I do this is to fill in any microscopic valleys on the CPU, which reduces cure time. If I'm using a heatsink with exposed heatpipes, I do pretty much the same thing so I can fill in the lines between the pipes.
Afterwards, apply a small dot of TIM right in the middle of the CPU. Don't spread it with a credit card, just leave it as-is. The pressure provided by the mounting hardware of the heatsink will force the TIM to adequately spread.

That's pretty much all there is to it. Good luck!
Edited by VanillaCena - 5/14/11 at 6:05am
post #4 of 19
Shin Etsu is expensive, and you need a decent amount of ICD7 for each application. I say go with something that is easy to work with, like AC MX-2/3/4, Gelid GC-Extreme, or AS Matrix. You can find them all here with free shipping - http://www.svc.com/thermal-compound.html

VanillaCena is on the $$$ about how to apply. Since you have an Intel chip, you can also use the single line method, but a dot in the middle will work just as well.
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post #5 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by VanillaCena View Post
Honestly, it's all the same crap - just get whatever you can get at a good price.

I use Arctic Silver 5, so the advice I'm giving probably won't work with thick TIMs such as Shin-Etsu and IC7.

The first thing I do is use 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean the CPU and heatsink. I recommend using coffee filters to do this.
The next thing I do is place a tiny amount of TIM on the CPU and rub it around with a coffee filter until I can't see it anymore, essentially "tinting" the CPU. The reason I do this is to fill in any microscopic valleys on the CPU, which reduces cure time. If I'm using a heatsink with exposed heatpipes, I do pretty much the same thing so I can fill in the lines between the pipes.
Afterwards, apply a small dot of TIM right in the middle of the CPU. Don't spread it with a credit card, just leave it as-is. The pressure provided by the mounting hardware of the heatsink will force the TIM to adequately spread.

That's pretty much all there is to it. Good luck!
Yup i agree with the bit about rubbing it into the surface first,i also do this and neither do i use a credit card as it dont work well with thicker TIM like IC7(which i use on cpu).

I also put a blob in the middle and let the heatsink and cpu spread the TIM,in my opinion if you where to use a thicker TIM like IC7 then this would be the best way to apply as it should be the best method to avoid airbubbles in the TIM contact area.

Id recommend you spend a little time first having some trial runs so you get the amount just right.
You dont want he TIM to spread thick at all as this will actually hinder thermal transfer.
Its only purpose is to fill microscopic irregularities in between the 2 surfaces when they make contact so the area of contact is at its maximum possible giving the best thermal transfer.

Some people seem to think your actually using TIM to adhere the cpu and heatsink

If you use a thinner easy spreading paste i know theres different methods to apply the TIM but im not really familliar with thinner TIM application as i always use IC7 on my Cpu.
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post #6 of 19
Thread Starter 
Yeah sounds like I didn't do the credit card method "wrong" then, I just used it to fill in the holes, and had a very thin amount on the whole CPU, you could barely tell I had any on there afterwards.

Regardless I didn't know it needed to be changed out that often, and that could be why my temps are about 8c higher than they were two years ago... so time to change it out. I just figured I'd try something different this time.

So basically tint the CPU and heatsink with TIM, and then use a small amount for the line method? That should work well? - And this method works with Shin Etsu, AS5, IC7, and the MXs all (Becuase I don't really care what I get, the differences between them tempurature wise is too minimal to get picky)?
Edited by Helltech - 5/14/11 at 2:47pm
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post #7 of 19
Shin-Etsu X23-7783D is normally at the top in most rankings. ICD has some issues that you may want to know about and whether or not it would bother you. As for applying tim here is a link that has some methods you could try.
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...=170&Itemid=38
post #8 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Helltech View Post
Yeah sounds like I didn't do the credit card method "wrong" then, I just used it to fill in the holes, and had a very thin amount on the whole CPU, you could barely tell I had any on there afterwards.

Regardless I didn't know it needed to be changed out that often, and that could be why my temps are about 8c higher than they were two years ago... so time to change it out. I just figured I'd try something different this time.

So basically tint the CPU and heatsink with TIM, and then use a small amount for the line method? That should work well? - And this method works with Shin Etsu, AS5, IC7, and the MXs all (Becuase I don't really care what I get, the differences between them tempurature wise is too minimal to get picky)?
Actually, Shin Etsu and IC7 are so thick that a dot in the middle of the CPU would be better than a line. If you go with either of these two, you can soften them by putting the closed tube in a container of hot water for a few minutes.
Innovation Cooling has a great webpage that explains their application method and why to use it. http://www.innovationcooling.com/app...structions.htm
I should also mention that the Thermalright ChillFactor III is also an excellent paste that can be found at the link I provided earlier as well.
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post #9 of 19
80-way review
SkinneeLabs 2011 Roundup – Results Compilation
TIM's at SVC - free shipping
I use GC Extreme, in part because it has low viscosity and is very easy to apply. "A little dab'll do ya."
I hear the diamond stuff will scratch your heatsink and your ihs.
Edited by ehume - 5/15/11 at 9:52am
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post #10 of 19
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the links guys. I think I'm going to go with the GC Extreme actually, decent price, and seems easy to use.

Hope my temps drop in three days.
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