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rasa 1155 block mounting

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
hey guys,

just picked myself up the rasa kit with the rx360 rad. Got it all together and Im pretty happy with it so far.

I do however have 1 question - my temps are ok, however when I push the waterblock onto the cpu a but harder with my hands, my temps drop by around 10 degrees. This would lead me to believe that the block isnt quite mounted as well as it could be.

I have fully tightened the the screw heads but I believe I might have missed something.

does someone have a half decent guide about mounting the block?

possbily some washers would help?
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post #2 of 9
Do you mind posting the temps you're getting now?
Seeing a 10C drop is pretty substantial.
post #3 of 9
That's pretty strange.

Try loosening the fittings perhaps, you may have tightened it to the point the middle is being bent away.

I can't really imagine it happening, but it's the only thing I could think of that could cause such an effect.
    
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post #4 of 9
Thread Starter 
@ 4.7ghz with 1.36 vcore I idle at around 32c hottest core. Ambient is around 19c.

when I prime it shoots straight up to 70-80 in the first coupe of mins then calms down to high 60's. The thing is, when it shoots up, I can put some downward pressure on the block and the temps will come right down almost immediately. When I release the pressure they gradually build back up.

Sound strange?
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post #5 of 9
Try some washers, maybe even purposely try some on one side vs the other. I never noticed what you're describing and 10C seem really extreme. Just don't go overboard...the block is bowed intentionally and the Acetal top isn't as resistant to high pressure as the metal tops. If you increase mounting pressure too much you can remove the valuable bow and make temps worse as well.

I have however noticed that my 2600K is very convex due to the 1155's strong retention, basically bowing the IHS vertically.

I also noticed that some of my strongest mounts are when the thin TIM contact is rolled slightly to the left or away from the retention level.

Block orientations also seem to be sometimes backwards from recommended. The Rasa seemed to test about the same either way.

I would suggest a couple of remounts first, but pay attention to what the TIM spread is telling you AFTER you remove the block. That's the one piece of history you have that can tell a lot.
    
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post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
Try some washers, maybe even purposely try some on one side vs the other. I never noticed what you're describing and 10C seem really extreme. Just don't go overboard...the block is bowed intentionally and the Acetal top isn't as resistant to high pressure as the metal tops. If you increase mounting pressure too much you can remove the valuable bow and make temps worse as well.

I have however noticed that my 2600K is very convex due to the 1155's strong retention, basically bowing the IHS vertically.

I also noticed that some of my strongest mounts are when the thin TIM contact is rolled slightly to the left or away from the retention level.

Block orientations also seem to be sometimes backwards from recommended. The Rasa seemed to test about the same either way.

I would suggest a couple of remounts first, but pay attention to what the TIM spread is telling you AFTER you remove the block. That's the one piece of history you have that can tell a lot.
I think I may have found part of the problem.... There are a second set of nuts that push the block down onto the chip. I was simpy screwing the block to the backplate, but not adjusting the second set which push the spring down, creating more pressure on the block.

Doing some testing now.
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post #7 of 9
Yea, you need to tighten that bottom screw compressing the spring down.
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post #8 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by trippinonprozac View Post
I think I may have found part of the problem.... There are a second set of nuts that push the block down onto the chip. I was simpy screwing the block to the backplate, but not adjusting the second set which push the spring down, creating more pressure on the block.

Doing some testing now.
Yeah, that first nut is just to get the threads seated into the backplate, the second set below the top is for adding tension.

That should do the trick for you.
    
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post #9 of 9
Here is the link to the user manual, it shows that lower nut screwed in a ways on the lower right picture of step 8:

http://www.xs-pc.com/manual/rasa.pdf
    
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