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post #11 of 17
I would take the block off and check contact.
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RedCraze
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post #12 of 17
Thread Starter 
loop order:




o and, another question, I recently just added 2 more fans to my HAF X. They are two 200mm 110CFM fans on the top. On the other side of the rad are 3 Yate Loons at 70 CFM each. (creating a push/pull) The 2 extra fans are louder than usual, is this due to bad airflow? Or did I screw them on wrong or something? lol
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post #13 of 17
Well, as long as they are exhaust that should be fine. I find my 200mm fans up top are nearly silent with 2 70CFMs pushing and a 90 in the middle pushing.
    
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post #14 of 17
Are the blocks running in series or parallel? As in, series, the water will go in and out the first card, then in and out the second card. Parallel, the water will flow into both cards to cool the GPUs simultaneously, then flow out back into your loop.

There are arguments for which is better. Personally, I have a series setup as I am only using two cards. It cools my primary GPU first, since it gets more use than the secondary. The secondary GPU is always a bit warmer.

When folding with both GPUs and my CPU all at 100%, I get about 48C on my first GPU and 55C on the second GPU, so there is a noticeable difference, but nothing to be alarmed by as they are both heavily overclocked, but still within safe temp ranges.
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post #15 of 17
Duh... should have read the entire thread. Looks like series... so the GPU on the bottom should be a bit warmer.

That is quite a bit for a single 360 rad, but I don't think you would notice THAT much of a difference between components. The system should reach equilibrium (ambient dependent, of course) at some point... be it warmer by a few degrees or not. When going with a Dual GPU/CPU setup on a single loop, you may want to consider a second radiator before hitting the GPUs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix777 View Post
gonna sound like a noob, but whats a "fast curing tim"?
If you are using Arctic Silver 5, it takes about 200 hours for it to "cure" or burn in to be most effective. I used Arctic Silver 5 on both of my GPU blocks. In retrospect, I should have gone with Arctic MX-4 as it yielded about 5-7C difference on my CPU block with no cure time, but the GPU blocks have been on for a couple months and have had no issues thus far.
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post #16 of 17
Thread Starter 
I used some generic thermal paste for both of my cards. The first card is hooked up to 2 monitors, idles around 40 and peak to 45-50 when gaming. The second card idles around 43 and peaks to 55-60 when gaming.

I should probably reseat both water blocks and use a better brand of thermal paste. Too lazy to take apart my loop right now, maybe later.
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THE BLUE HAF
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post #17 of 17
That is quite a bit for one 360 rad, it will handle it (obviously) just with slightly elevated temps. To give you an idea of what another rad can do for you, here is a screen shot of my temps folding 24/7, ambient is 23*C. The GPUs are split, my water loop goes rad>cpu and gpu1>rad>gpu2>res>pump. Splitting my gpus and adding a rad I can keep both at 36*C under full load overclocked. Loop also keep my cpu in the low 60s.

There used to be a 3rd gpu but it died and came out last weekend. I run the cpu and gpu1 parallel and gpu's 2 and 3 parallel with "tee" fittings.

I have the same case, 200mm fans included don't move as much air as they spec them at. I just run 3 120mm Scythe fans where the 200s used to be and have the second rad hanging off the back. I took the 200mm off the site and with a slight mod added an NZXT 200mm high volume fan- this fan moves TONS of air and is silent, makes a huge difference. If my camera wasn't dead I would add a pic (seems like it's dead every time I want to use it)
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