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Thinking About going Air Cooling

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Well guys, as some of you know i have been trying to figure out why my temps havent been as good.

I bought artic silver 3 and tried reseating my cpu block which i did and somehow it started leaking. It leaked even with barbs and fittings, go figure. The PC still went into POST and ended up getting a windows 7 error saying it failed to load windows, so after trying to fix that, now it wont even POST.

I'm thinking about hanging the gloves and selling all my WC stuff and just go with sandy bridge with my megahalems.

I have never liked my evga classified + Core i7 920 to begin with.
post #2 of 12
I hate to say we need more info to really be helpful... But that's kind of what it boils down to. I don't know why your computer would or wouldn't POST properly... My computer didn't/doesn't care what cooling solution is on it as long as there is a solution.

As far as the leaking.... Just make sure all fittings are in and o-rings have pressure on them, but don't squeeze them too tightly (fine art I'm learning). Weird that it leaked with both barbs and fittings.. Maybe there is a problem with the threading on the block or the block isn't secured down on itself?

I went sandybridge from my old P45 stuff, and have been more than happy. Temps are cool and speeds are fast, UEFI is fantastic, and you can use 3 16x (sized) PCIE slots and go triple crossfire or SLI without a performance hit compared to 1366 (according to Tomshardware).

It's a decision that you alone have to make with what to do, but you can't go wrong IMO going to SB, though many would doubt the value of upgrading to it considering how new(ish) your current system is, and with ivy bridge around the bend.
post #3 of 12
Can I haz your stufz?
    
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post #4 of 12
+1

I could use an RX360 and Rasa block...

Sorry it didn't seem to work out for you. Over-tightening can be an issue when o-rings and water is involved. Some go to extremes to use teflon tape on the barb threads and then worm drive clamp the tubes onto the barbs (you should clamp them no matter what if not using compression fittings).

The only reason why a re-seat would be necessary is if you're not getting any heat transfer from the CPU to the block, which means the water in the loop would be near room-temp since it's not being heated up by the CPU.

If both the CPU and water are hot then there could be massive air pockets in the rad or a blockage somewhere, preventing the hot water from being cooled by the rad and the cool water from getting to the CPU Waterblock. The pump could be defective as well and not pushing enough water...

Watercooling isn't painless, but to most, the rewards are worth the possible headaches and risk.
    
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post #5 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Born2rade View Post
Well guys, as some of you know i have been trying to figure out why my temps havent been as good.

I bought artic silver 3 and tried reseating my cpu block which i did and somehow it started leaking. It leaked even with barbs and fittings, go figure. The PC still went into POST and ended up getting a windows 7 error saying it failed to load windows, so after trying to fix that, now it wont even POST.

I'm thinking about hanging the gloves and selling all my WC stuff and just go with sandy bridge with my megahalems.

I have never liked my evga classified + Core i7 920 to begin with.
There are a couple of questions we need answered here.

- Did you check to see if the water block copper base was properly tightened? A lot of times, blocks from the factory are a bit lose and you need to tighten the screws on the base. This happened with my D-Tek Fuzion, Danger Den 4870X2 block, and my XSPC Edge block.
- Where is it leaking from; copper base, barbs, tubing, or somewhere else?
- Did coolant get on the board? If so, that's probably why it does not work.
- The top of the block for a RASA kit is acetal/delrin if memory serves, so over tightening is typically not a concern, especially if the barbs have a depressed O-ring groove. Did you make sure the barbs were securely screwed in?
- The RASA kit comes with normal 1/2" barbs. Did you use the plastic clamps with it and make sure that it is secure? If you didn't use the plastic clamps, what sort of clamping did you use to secure the tubing over the barbs?

Hopefully you can work this out. If you have any questions, feel free to ask or PM me directly.
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post #6 of 12
Thread Starter 
I'm going to keep my WC stuff. i have my megahalems in temporarly.

It does POST and went to desktop now but my ram says only 1.99 avaiable and when i took out my ram and put it back in, when i load to desktop it now freezes and makes a scratchy sound out of my speakers.....

Bad ram? or Mobo?
post #7 of 12
Thread Starter 
Reformatted comp, It booted to desktop fine now. though ram still says 3.99 GB available.
post #8 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Born2rade View Post
Reformatted comp, It booted to desktop fine now. though ram still says 3.99 GB available.
try each stick of ram one by one, this way you can eliminate the ram as the problem. If that doesnt work, reseat your cpu. If one of the pins in the socket is bent it can cause this to happen.
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post #9 of 12
Seems to be a case of being unhappy with mediocre wc gear. I learned my lesson with lower end stuff and will never touch it again. It's just not worth buying imo. There just isn't that much performance gain from those parts despite the great allure of the price and the "cool" looks it gives the system, but higher end yields such great performance it's hard to go back to air.
 
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post #10 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by fat_italian_stallion View Post
Seems to be a case of being unhappy with mediocre wc gear. I learned my lesson with lower end stuff and will never touch it again. It's just not worth buying imo. There just isn't that much performance gain from those parts despite the great allure of the price and the "cool" looks it gives the system, but higher end yields such great performance it's hard to go back to air.
I'm fairly certain it was user error that was the fault in this case. It's not exactly impossible to "screw up" with high end gear.
    
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