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Frost on suction line? - Page 3

post #21 of 35
Thread Starter 
sorry for the slow response. Compressor shell is cool, but not as cold as before the added charge.
    
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post #22 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoL View Post
Can't really do any of it properly without a high side pressure.
Let's see.

What temperature is the condenser out line. So post compressor, post condenser.
How hot is the compressor shell?
You were right. Adding refrigerant made the cooling much worse (although the frost did go away). I've since recovered refrigerant back to the 15psi low side rating it was before. The frost on the suction line is back, but cooling is much much better.

Compressor shell is now cool to neutral. No sweating.

Can you help me tune the superheat? I'm not sure how to calculate it, or what it even needs to be for maximum efficiency.

Thanks!
    
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post #23 of 35
Calculating Sub-cooling.
1. Take the high side pressure and convert it to temperature using the p/t chart. That will give you the "saturated condensing temperature".
2. Measure the "liquid line temp" at the outlet of the condenser
3. Sub-cooling = saturated condensing temperature - liquid line temp
4. Ideal range 9-15F

Calculating Superheat.
1. Take the lowside pressure and convert to temperature using the p/t chart. this will give you the "saturated suction temperature"
2. Measure the "suction line temperature".. 6" from the compressor... right above the accumulator on a rotary.
3. Superheat = suction line temperature - saturated suction temperature
4. Ideal range 8-12F

You will need some way of measuring temperature . you can use a infra red head gun or a digital temp reader with K probes . If you go the probe route them you will need to put some artic ceramique thermal compound on the K probe tips and then Gorilla tape them to there proper places and put some insulation tape around them as well per above instructions . You will also need a pressure / temperature chart for your refrigerant. Google is your friend ! These instructions are for a rotary compressor but a recip compressor works real close to the same principal. You really don't need to calc sub cooling with a cap tube system but it's go to know and can tell you a lot about the condition of the charge .

BTW ... I got those measuring instructions from Drewmeister over at Extreme Overclocking .com . I printed them out and keep them in my notes . Thanks Drew !!

good luck O.P. and LUK how it goes

Edit .... http://www.thermoworks.com/products/probe/tc_wire.html In case you want to purchase the probes.Get model # 113-362. The only issue is the digital temp readers can be a bit pricy . UEI makes good readers and some better digital volt meters come with at least one K probe port on them . Then you can switch the plugs around one at a time to take your readings. You need to let the compressor run for at least 15 minutes from a cold start up before you take readings . This way the refrigerant will be in it's "true" state.

-Flock
Edited by flocko - 8/13/11 at 2:35pm
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post #24 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by flocko View Post
Calculating Sub-cooling.
1. Take the high side pressure and convert it to temperature using the p/t chart. That will give you the "saturated condensing temperature".
2. Measure the "liquid line temp" at the outlet of the condenser
3. Sub-cooling = saturated condensing temperature - liquid line temp
4. Ideal range 9-15F

Calculating Superheat.
1. Take the lowside pressure and convert to temperature using the p/t chart. this will give you the "saturated suction temperature"
2. Measure the "suction line temperature".. 6" from the compressor... right above the accumulator on a rotary.
3. Superheat = saturated suction temperature - suction line temperature
4. Ideal range 8-12F

You will need some way of measuring temperature . you can use a infra red head gun or a digital temp reader with K probes . If you go the probe route them you will need to put some artic ceramique thermal compound on the K probe tips and then Gorilla tape them to there proper places and put some insulation tape around them as well per above instructions . You will also need a pressure / temperature chart for your refrigerant. Google is your friend ! These instructions are for a rotary compressor but a recip compressor works real close to the same principal. You really don't need to calc sub cooling with a cap tube system but it's go to know and can tell you a lot about the condition of the charge .

BTW ... I got those measuring instructions from Drewmeister over at Extreme Overclocking .com . I printed them out and keep them in my notes . Thanks Drew !!

good luck O.P. and LUK how it goes

Edit .... http://www.thermoworks.com/products/probe/tc_wire.html In case you want to purchase the probes.Get model # 113-362. The only issue is the digital temp readers can be a bit pricy . UEI makes good readers and some better digital volt meters come with at least one K probe port on them . Then you can switch the plugs around one at a time to take your readings. You need to let the compressor run for at least 15 minutes from a cold start up before you take readings . This way the refrigerant will be in it's "true" state.

-Flock
WOW. Just freaking wow. I dealt with Drewmeister a bit on Extreme Overclocking and he was super helpful. Ditto to you.

Just a few more questions...

*Do I measure superheat when the system has low load? e.g. right from a cold start?
*If superheat is low/high to I add/remove refrigerant?
*What end of that superheat range should I shoot for for maximum cooling.

THANKS SO MUCH!
    
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post #25 of 35
Thread Starter 
ALRIGHT!

So I finally got around to properly measuring the superheat. My suction line (which is partially frosted) was 25F and my low side psi was 13, which converts to about 12 F. Leaving me a superheat of 13. I took this measurement after the compressor had been on for several hours and the load (mineral oil temperature) was low. I will try and monitor how the load affects the superheat...

Should I aim for a lower superheat? What will give me the best performance?

THANKS!
    
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post #26 of 35
Here is what I would do :

Start the system with gauge set installed and tepm reading devices in place .
Let the system run for 15 minutes NO load . Personally , I would run all the tests with no heat load of any kind to start with .
After the system has run for 15 minutes then take the following readings and report back :

high side reading
low side reading
compressor amps
compressor volts
voltage at your power source (the wall outlet)

Take temperatures at the following areas :

1) Ambient air temperature in the room you are in . Try and duplicate the worst temps( hottest room will ever get) the unit will ever see . This will help when adjusting the charge , if in fact it needs adjusting .
2) condenser out put line
3) compressor shell
4 ) suction line . On a rotary compressor this would be about 2" above the accumulator . On a recip compressor I'm not sure . Just measure it at the end of the suction line closest to the compressor.
5) In coming condenser air temperature. I do this with a digital meat thermometer . Just stick it in front of the condenser .

All the above testing is why I can't tell you what to do with the super heat . We just don't know any info . There are many causes of super heat and sub cooling issues . I'm not going to go into them until we get your results . You are also stretching my knowledge base here quite a bit . I have one unit under my belt and a SWEET piece of work under way right now.

Once we get the no heat load charge under control we can start all over except this time you can do it under load . The charge adjustment at this point will be most likely minimal.

REMEMBER : always let the system balance from a cold start before taking any readings for 15 minutes . Any adding of or reduction of refrigerant will need to be be done VERY slowly . I mean real SLOW. You don't want to flood the compressor .

A couple bits of advice :

1) Take some pics (detailed ) of the unit .
2) We need detailed specs of the unit not just compressor model . What is the metering device ? What is the make of the condenser . What are you using for fans ? What type of refrigerant is in the system
3) Get some refrigeration tools !
4) Get a pressure temp chart for your refrigerant .

Lastly ..... Running the unit on the high end of the superheat will give you the best cooling

Yes , Drew is a .... well , GENIUS and very adept at this art . He has been a trooper for me and has the patience of a Saint . Many folks on this forum share that knowledge as well (not me , mind you) and will be more than willing to help !!

EDIT : You posted while I was typing ..... sorry !!!

-Flocko
Edited by flocko - 7/11/11 at 3:35pm
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post #27 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by flocko View Post
Here is what I would do :

Start the system with gauge set installed and tepm reading devices in place .
Let the system run for 15 minutes NO load . Personally , I would run all the tests with no heat load of any kind to start with .
After the system has run for 15 minutes then take the following readings and report back :

high side reading
low side reading
compressor amps
compressor volts
voltage at your power source (the wall outlet)

Take temperatures at the following areas :

1) Ambient air temperature in the room you are in . Try and duplicate the worst temps( hottest room will ever get) the unit will ever see . This will help when adjusting the charge , if in fact it needs adjusting .
2) condenser out put line
3) compressor shell
4 ) suction line . On a rotary compressor this would be about 2" above the accumulator . On a recip compressor I'm not sure . Just measure it at the end of the suction line closest to the compressor.
5) In coming condenser air temperature. I do this with a digital meat thermometer . Just stick it in front of the condenser .

All the above testing is why I can't tell you what to do with the super heat . We just don't know any info . There are many causes of super heat and sub cooling issues . I'm not going to go into them until we get your results . You are also stretching my knowledge base here quite a bit . I have one unit under my belt and a SWEET piece of work under way right now.

Once we get the no heat load charge under control we can start all over except this time you can do it under load . The charge adjustment at this point will be most likely minimal.

REMEMBER : always let the system balance from a cold start before taking any readings for 15 minutes . Any adding of or reduction of refrigerant will need to be be done VERY slowly . I mean real SLOW. You don't want to flood the compressor .

A couple bits of advice :

1) Take some pics (detailed ) of the unit .
2) We need detailed specs of the unit not just compressor model . What is the metering device ? What is the make of the condenser . What are you using for fans ? What type of refrigerant is in the system
3) Get some refrigeration tools !
4) Get a pressure temp chart for your refrigerant .

Lastly ..... Running the unit on the high end of the superheat will give you the best cooling

Yes , Drew is a .... well , GENIUS and very adept at this art . He has been a trooper for me and has the patience of a Saint . Many folks on this forum share that knowledge as well (not me , mind you) and will be more than willing to help !!

EDIT : You posted while I was typing ..... sorry !!!

-Flocko
You are a stud! I am really appreciating what you are doing for me.

1) I will try and take some pictures tomorrow...
2) There is no metering device. I think this is called a "cap tube" system.
3) I have a psi guage and a multimeter with temp probes. The probe is taped to the suction line. The condenser is made by Copeland/Tecumseh.
4) The refrigerant is R134a. I got a chart!

So I should shoot for a high superheat? If I understand correctly, my superheat at idle will be lower than my superheat at load. Is that right?
    
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post #28 of 35
Thread Starter 
Oh, and another question...Would it be better to have the oil flow through slowly, or more rapidly?
    
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post #29 of 35
Nah ... no stud hear for sure

The cap tube IS the metering device . So ... we now know how the refrigerant is being metered ! Cool

Yes ... your super heat at idle will be a bit lower than at full load . Full load is what matters the most. .

I have no clue about anything to do with oil cooling . Just being honest !!!

Bye your last reporting it sounds like your already on the the high end of super heat. DO NOT go out of the high end of that range . I would love to know what your compressor temps are ? As well as the other requested info .

Sounds like your getting VERY close !!

Please luk how it goes and GOOD Luck
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post #30 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by flocko View Post
Nah ... no stud hear for sure

The cap tube IS the metering device . So ... we now know how the refrigerant is being metered ! Cool

Yes ... your super heat at idle will be a bit lower than at full load . Full load is what matters the most. .

I have no clue about anything to do with oil cooling . Just being honest !!!

Bye your last reporting it sounds like your already on the the high end of super heat. DO NOT go out of the high end of that range . I would love to know what your compressor temps are ? As well as the other requested info .

Sounds like your getting VERY close !!


Please luk how it goes and GOOD Luck
Hey again,

I can't really measure the compressor shell temp, as my one and only temperature probe is buried under insulation tape on the suction line. The compressor shell is neutral to cool (but not sweating). The compressor has some frost buildup right below where the suction line returns.

I let the unit chill my oil overnight with the computer completely off, and the superheat in the morning was 17, a little higher than before. It seems to fluctuate between 13-17 depending on the load and the ambient air temperature. I should tell you that my computer is in my closet (to cut down on noise), and the ambient air temperature in there is about 75 if the door is open, and up to 81 or so if the door is closed for an extended period of time.

What else do you need to know? Should I add or remove refrigerant to improve cooling? And I'll try to take pics ASAP, I've been super busy!
    
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