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I think I killed my 2600k

post #1 of 56
Thread Starter 
Was trying to OC it for the first time..

Read the thread that the ASUS rep posted. And pretty much followed the guide to a T. But only tried for a 4.5GHz overclock instead of 4.8 because of the info in the earlier part of the post, stating 50% of SB chips can be stable at 4.5.

So I tried a lot of things.

I turned off Turbo mode, C1E, Intel SpeedStep in the EFI.

Typed in 45 for each core. with a multi of 100.

Bumped vCore or CPU core freq. up to 1.38.. Nothing too high.. But it might have been a little high, admittedly..

Intel PLL Overvoltage Disabled
LLC - Ultra High
VRM Fixed Frequency - 350
Phase Control - Extreme
Forgot to turn the Duty Control to Extreme....**
CPU Voltage set to manaul and 1.38

When I told the EFI to Save and Reset, a few times, the BIOS Screen came up with Overclocking FAILED! Press F1 to enter setup.

I did that, and was immediately shown that the CPU temp was WAY too high. ~97*C, and the Voltage had somehow SKYROCKETED to 1.8!!!

This happened twice that I know of..

Could I have just killed my chip? And if so, how can I prevent this from happening again.?

**What's happening now is that no matter what setting I choose, (I've chosen "Load Optimized" from the advanced menu, then go to Save and Reset) I cannot get windows to load. I get the flying orbs for a second, then the Mobo restarts and goes basically thru a "loop". Windows wont load. Windows Startup Repair won't load. Nothing. **

I think i will visit MC tomorrow to get an exchange. It was 7 days ago exactly that I bought it.
Edited by WuLF - 5/21/11 at 10:26pm
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post #2 of 56
You shouldn't have disabled Turbo mode.
post #3 of 56
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by c0nnection View Post
You shouldn't have disabled Turbo mode.
Why? I've read most people do, to achieve high overclocks?..
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post #4 of 56
Have you updated your MB bios? you will need to do this. First try clearing CMOS, then once booted back into bios, optimize defaults, check your vcore in BIOS on reboot. If all groovy, reboot back into BIOS and tweak.
    
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post #5 of 56
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ttoadd.nz View Post
Have you updated your MB bios? you will need to do this. First try clearing CMOS, then once booted back into bios, optimize defaults, check your vcore in BIOS on reboot. If all groovy, reboot back into BIOS and tweak.
First thing I did when I got the rig up was update my BIOS. As I had problems with the P67 Pro recognizing my old boot drive. It just wouldn't boot to it. So I downloaded the 1502 update, using EZ Flash, and have had that since.
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post #6 of 56
I dont know if a couple of boots at 1.8 would kill the chip, I'd remove the chip and see if you can see any physical damage to the pins.

You can try enabling overvoltage aswell to see if that gets you to desktop.
Edited by ttoadd.nz - 5/21/11 at 10:42pm
    
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post #7 of 56
Enable PLL overvoltage too when things get working again. I've always read it's recommended when over clocking these chips. 100 base clock with 45 multiplier. Just try and leave the voltage on auto first. It used to not be the best choice, but that's what I did for an initial overclock. Just enabled/disabled what I needed and chose my load line calibration settings and bam it was fine. It gave me like 1.32 load vcore on auto I believe. So I would recommend trying that first, then you can fine tune afterwards if really even needed.

And pretty sure you don't need the +350 for the VRM. I've read that's only needed when reaching 5ghz for example. 4.5 isn't a huge overclock as it would be with other chips.
Not sure if you have this option, but in my Gigabyte board if I use turbo it gives me the option to allow for higher TDP limit and current limit or something like that. Sometimes people have to use those options when they get to a certain OC.

And check if there is a button to clear cmos and if not you can remove the battery and let it sit for a bit or find the clear cmos jumper if it has one. It may or may not come with a jumper cap, but you can also use a screw driver to touch both pins or the mobo speaker for example. (I just take the mobo speaker and insert it onto the cmos jumper then take it off then turn pc on and it works)

Edit: Don't forget, sometimes people have better luck with different BIOS such as previous versions, recent, or beta versions. If I were you I would get into the BIOS and re-flash and that should reset everything and I feel pretty confident this might help.
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post #8 of 56
Yep try to clear CMOS with jumper or removing battery for a while. If it still won't start up that's very bad.
post #9 of 56
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Error lVlacro View Post
Enable PLL overvoltage too when things get working again. I've always read it's recommended when over clocking these chips. 100 base clock with 45 multiplier. Just try and leave the voltage on auto first. It used to not be the best choice, but that's what I did for an initial overclock. Just enabled/disabled what I needed and chose my load line calibration settings and bam it was fine. It gave me like 1.32 load vcore on auto I believe. So I would recommend trying that first, then you can fine tune afterwards if really even needed.

And pretty sure you don't need the +350 for the VRM. I've read that's only needed when reaching 5ghz for example. 4.5 isn't a huge overclock as it would be with other chips.
Not sure if you have this option, but in my Gigabyte board if I use turbo it gives me the option to allow for higher TDP limit and current limit or something like that. Sometimes people have to use those options when they get to a certain OC.

And check if there is a button to clear cmos and if not you can remove the battery and let it sit for a bit or find the clear cmos jumper if it has one. It may or may not come with a jumper cap, but you can also use a screw driver to touch both pins or the mobo speaker for example. (I just take the mobo speaker and insert it onto the cmos jumper then take it off then turn pc on and it works)

Edit: Don't forget, sometimes people have better luck with different BIOS such as previous versions, recent, or beta versions. If I were you I would get into the BIOS and re-flash and that should reset everything and I feel pretty confident this might help.
Ah yes! Forgot to mention, I already removed the CMOS battery to reset BIOS.. didn't work unfortunately. I seriously think it's dead..

It won't even boot from CD drive..
The HAF 2600k
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The HAF 2600k
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Core i7 2600k ASUS P8P67 Pro 2x GTX 460 2GB 8GB 1600 G-Skill RipjawzX 
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64gb Crucial M4 SSD, 1TB WD Black, 640GB Black Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit 27" ASUS Corsair AX750 750Watt 
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post #10 of 56
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster_is_better View Post
Yep try to clear CMOS with jumper or removing battery for a while. If it still won't start up that's very bad.
Is there any difference in these two methods? Or do they do the same thing?
The HAF 2600k
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HAF 932 
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The HAF 2600k
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 2600k ASUS P8P67 Pro 2x GTX 460 2GB 8GB 1600 G-Skill RipjawzX 
Hard DriveOSMonitorPower
64gb Crucial M4 SSD, 1TB WD Black, 640GB Black Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit 27" ASUS Corsair AX750 750Watt 
Case
HAF 932 
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