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Calling all HVAC experts to help with a new chilled water project.[Now Window Unit] - Page 2

post #11 of 65
Thread Starter 
I decided to move away from the refrigerator parts as I wasn't sure of the cooling capacity it had and whether or not it would kick the heat's ass enough.

The window unit seems like a great idea because everything stays in the window unit, I just remove the fan for the evaporator and basically replace flowing air with a water tank that will be circulating through my system. I plan to use some mixture of anti-freeze and water of course to prevent freezing of the liquid.

I will be using it for my sig rig. Q6600 only at the moment, I will probably get a used block for my 5850 some time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slngsht View Post
Ever consider getting a Phase unit and hooking up the evaporator head to a waterblock in the loop? Only problem with this is major condensation buildup.
I don't like copper lines, it wouldn't allow me to make my system look neat. (But then again how neat would it possibly look with fat insulated tubes running to it and rubber silicone all over the place, which I'm doing now... haha.)

I'm getting some of this stuff, similar to what Vega used but it's brushable so it's easier to apply and I can control the thickness better.
Edited by Khaotik55 - 5/22/11 at 11:21am
post #12 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by slngsht View Post
Ever consider getting a Phase unit and hooking up the evaporator head to a waterblock in the loop? Only problem with this is major condensation buildup.
The biggest problem with a setup like that has more to do with the extremely variable nature of the heat load.
With DX cooling at a CPU block, you can't cycle the refrigeration system off and on, it has to stay running continuously, and most systems don't have a continuous high load.
Works for benching sessions, but is not very friendly for every day use.

For an every day use kind of setup, it works a lot better to chill water, then use the water for cooling the PC components with normal water blocks.
Chilling a tank of water allows the refrigeration system to cycle on and off to maintain the water temperature under varying loads from the system.

Protection from condensation is still very much a requirement, but it is not nearly as much of a problem as with DX cooling of the components.
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post #13 of 65
Thread Starter 
How long do you reckon an average water cooling water block will last before seals fail and or it cracks with up to -30C fluid flowing through it?
post #14 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caleal View Post
Thanks, I've been doing HVAC/R work for almost 20 years, and occasionally teach a basic refrigeration and charging procedures class, so its good to know someone thinks I do a passing job of explaining the cycle.

Yeah, even if the operating conditions cut the 12k btuh capacity in half, he still will have nearly double the cooling capacity needed to handle 1000w of heat dissipation from the system, lol.

Hopefully he is not just planning to stick the stock evaporator coil under water.

I've thought about making a similar system, but with an evaporator made from coil of copper tubing submerged in an insulated water tank for thermal storage. I'd us an electronic expansion valve for refrigerant metering, and a Rawal device for capacity control.
Ironically, me too- started in '96 and now work for an OEM of datacenter equipment.

The water tank is what I would think makes or breaks these setups and is rarely considered. The storage allows compressor cycling with minimum on/off times.

As Krypton said, check out Drewmeister's work. He walks people through these configurations all the time and has some pretty neat ideas geared towards people that don't have all the specialized equipment for refrigeration work.
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post #15 of 65
Thread Starter 
The window unit I have is actually 8,900 BTU not 12,000. The evaporator coil is also substantially smaller than the one Vega used. About a third of the size. Hopefully it will still work.
post #16 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by Khaotik55 View Post
The window unit I have is actually 8,900 BTU not 12,000. The evaporator coil is also substantially smaller than the one Vega used. About a third of the size. Hopefully it will still work.
You shouldn't have any problems cooling with that size. Converting watts to btus is easy: 3.413 btus per watt. So even if you maxed out a 1000 watt power supply, you would only be putting out 3414 btus. You would be at about 40% of design capacity, I wouldn't worry about capacity.
Edited by mike597 - 5/22/11 at 1:44pm
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post #17 of 65
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike597 View Post
You shouldn't have any problems cooling with that size. Converting watts to btus is easy: 3.413 btus per watt. So even if you maxed out a 1000 watt power supply, you would only be putting out 3414 btus. You would be at about 40% of design capacity, I wouldn't worry about capacity.
What is this talk of a power supply, it will be plugged into the wall outlet.



^After about 4 minutes of being on. Started frosting within a minute. But there is no fan(deliberate) so duh. At least we know it works!

....had to use torches to cut melt a sheet of metal off of the side because I don't have a dremel and I didn't feel like using a hack saw. + ~20 minutes of trying to get the darn fan blower shroud off...

* I just realized I forgot to put back a screw when looking at the picture, I am doomed.
Edited by Khaotik55 - 5/22/11 at 2:43pm
post #18 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by Khaotik55 View Post
What is this talk of a power supply, it will be plugged into the wall outlet.
He was talking about heat load from the computer.

On another note, how are you planning to control the unit?
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post #19 of 65
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caleal View Post
He was talking about heat load from the computer.

On another note, how are you planning to control the unit?
Ohh I see, yeah I won't be even putting out 300watts worth of heat I don't think as it's a CPU only loop.

And what do you mean how do I plan to control the unit? The temperature knobs? Not sure what I'm going to do with the temperature sensor as the knob isn't meant for sub zero xD. I might just turn it on and off manually as needed unless you have a suggestion for me.

There's a little copper sensor that clips onto the front of the evap. Where would I put that if I use it at all, and how would I adjust the knob to calibrate it for lower temps such as 0c-10c instead of the normal 60f-78f? Either way that's not really a huge deal.

Also I have a question since you're good with HVAC. How long could you run a frozen evaporator coil before it starts damaging the compressor, if at all?
Edited by Khaotik55 - 5/22/11 at 3:54pm
post #20 of 65
To control the unit, I would pick up controls designed for the temp range you are looking at. There are all sorts of options out there for low-temp applications, most are simple mechanical controls that don't cost too much and are very reliable (used in large refrigeration equipment like restaurants). The thermostat on your window unit would be useless for this application.

If you aren't comfortable with wiring and control schematics, there are a couple options. First, just cut out the control being used now (thermostat knob) and wire in the new low-temp controller. The other being to take a good pic of the unit's schematic (provided it has one) and we can draw on it where to make the necessary changes. Once we know the basics it's easier to make suggestions.

Something like this is what I'm referring to.
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