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post #2831 of 12382
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshmellow17 View Post

Finally got a D14 so I could do some serious OCing. After fiddling around for a bit, I managed 4.2:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2268775
1.42v on the cpu
1.3v on the NB
1.2v on cpu-nb link
2800MHz NB frequency
Max temp is 55C under linpack
tried 4.3 with the same settings but got stuck in boot loop. Tomorrow I'll see about bumping some voltages, too late right now

If you really want to prove stability you should run a custom prime95 blend. Use 90% of your memory and let it run for 15-18 hours. At 15min an FFT you will hit all FFT's after about 18 hours or so. no one can argue with that staiblity!

Nice voltage on the clock though.
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post #2832 of 12382
Does anyone know if there is a new revision of the UD7 and if newegg is selling it?
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post #2833 of 12382
Quote:
Originally Posted by arsenal553 View Post

Does anyone know if there is a new revision of the UD7 and if newegg is selling it?

I purchased and received a UD7 last week from Newegg - a revision 1.1 was delivered to me.
post #2834 of 12382
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuso View Post

ML241, what option has you put in LLC mode ? AUTO ? regular ? because my board does not Disable option.
I did some tests and appears voltage diferences, I checked with hardware monitor program and CPU-Z see you :

Note: My cpu core is in NORMAL : 1.400v
LLC mode option :
--Hardware monitor program--
LLC mode option : CPU Voltage Min CPU Voltage Max

Extreme 1.44v 1.47v
Regular 1.41v 1.42v
Auto 1.41v 1.42v
--CPU-Z ----
LLC mode option : CPU Voltage Min CPU Voltage Max

Extreme 1.440v 1.472v
Regular 1.408v 1.424v
Auto 1.408v 1.424v

I think that in AUTOoption, the system choose REGULAR option, this is the most stable option.
One question, How change to manual the CPU Vcore ?
In my board you only choose NORMAL (1.400v) , and the other option + or - voltage.

Updated: Here is the link to the LLC test spreadsheet I made. Voltages were obtained with CPU-Z and load was applied with prime95. Cells showing two voltages mean that the voltage shown in CPU-Z was bouncing back and forth between the two voltages.

I've made a spreadsheet of some tests I did on LLC with my UD3 rev 1.1. I'll try to get this posted here when I get home. It may be different per board, but at least we'll have a reference point. You are correct that there's no OFF option for the LLC. No matter which setting I choose, I ALWAYS get Vboost under load.

If I remember correctly, the most consistent setting for the LLC was Ultra High. Stay away from Auto and Extreme and you'll be fine. On my board the Auto settings uses Extreme, which adds way too much voltage IMHO.
Edited by JakR4bbit - 2/27/12 at 3:47pm
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post #2835 of 12382
How is the vDroop/Boost on the UD7 1.1?
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post #2836 of 12382
Quote:
Originally Posted by arsenal553 View Post

How is the vDroop/Boost on the UD7 1.1?

I'm running the "Extreme" load line setting at the moment, and it seems to work well; 1.5125 Vcore in bios gives the same in Windows running Prime95. The 8150 is mostly stable at 4.8GHz and DDR3 2200, but sadly I haven't been able to make the magical five-oh stable yet.
post #2837 of 12382
Quote:
Originally Posted by TitusPrime View Post

Well, my UD3 has finally given up and blown some VRM.
The cooling on the VRM is just inadequate for FX8xxx overclocking and sustained use.....especially on a board that 'looks' like it's over-volting iteslf under load.
If you compare the UD3 to either the Sabertooth or Crosshair then you will see just how inadequate it is. I don't think the UD5 or UD7 heatsinks look chunky enough either for how much current the boards can supply to the CPU.
It's such a pity because the slot layout of the UD3 is the best out of all the boards but i've moved that down the priority list now.
If GloFo fix their 32nm process then Piledriver might be ok but Gigabyte have scrimped a bit too far on this series.

I think I blew the VRM on my UD3 also. Was running a high computational load for a while last night to test out the new build, came back to my bench noticing the characteristic burnt electronics smell, and before I could even get to the power button, the whole system abruptly shut off. My first instinct was that the PSU gave up, but swapping PSUs did not remedy the situation. No boot, no POST, fans don't even spin up. There is power on the 12V standby however, for what that's worth.

There is a possibility it's the FX-8150 that gave up, but temps were within guidelines (about 59C) when the fault occurred. And typically, when a CPU dies, the system freezes, it doesn't power down suddenly. Hopefully yesterday's event didn't fry the CPU also.

The local computer shop I deal with exchanged the motherboard without any hassles. I will install the new one this evening and see if the CPU is OK. I may need to look at a better way of cooling the VRMs, since in my current setup they are hidden behind the radiator for the Kuhler 920 and the heatsink gets minimal airflow. Barring that, perhaps spending the extra 50$ for the Sabertooth would be a good move.
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post #2838 of 12382
Quote:
Originally Posted by therfman View Post

I think I blew the VRM on my UD3 also. Was running a high computational load for a while last night to test out the new build, came back to my bench noticing the characteristic burnt electronics smell, and before I could even get to the power button, the whole system abruptly shut off. My first instinct was that the PSU gave up, but swapping PSUs did not remedy the situation. No boot, no POST, fans don't even spin up. There is power on the 12V standby however, for what that's worth.
There is a possibility it's the FX-8150 that gave up, but temps were within guidelines (about 59C) when the fault occurred. And typically, when a CPU dies, the system freezes, it doesn't power down suddenly. Hopefully yesterday's event didn't fry the CPU also.
The local computer shop I deal with exchanged the motherboard without any hassles. I will install the new one this evening and see if the CPU is OK. I may need to look at a better way of cooling the VRMs, since in my current setup they are hidden behind the radiator for the Kuhler 920 and the heatsink gets minimal airflow. Barring that, perhaps spending the extra 50$ for the Sabertooth would be a good move.

You must have had those VRAMS screaming hot. I'll agree it dose not sound like the CPU died. sorry you had poor luck with your board. However it is to be exptected. To assume that every mobo to come of the line is going to be fault free is impossible. I say give it another go with better flow to your VRAMS. Are you using a CLC from corsair/antec? its a common problem with CLC's to cut off airflow to the VRAMS.
Edited by KhaoticKomputing - 2/29/12 at 10:51am
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post #2839 of 12382
Yes, I'm using an Antec Kuhler 920. The rad/fan assembly sits directly on top on the VRM heatsink in my BirFenix Outlaw case. From what I can tell, the VRM heatsink on the replacement board is more secure than on the one that died. I think there was some bad contact going on there. An overclocked FX-8140 also draws A LOT of current under load, so all those conditions together made for a bad combination of events for sure.

I love your avatar BTW. I have a car that looks a lot like that. My wife is convinced she is evil smile.gif
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post #2840 of 12382
Quote:
Originally Posted by therfman View Post

Yes, I'm using an Antec Kuhler 920. The rad/fan assembly sits directly on top on the VRM heatsink in my BirFenix Outlaw case. From what I can tell, the VRM heatsink on the replacement board is more secure than on the one that died. I think there was some bad contact going on there. An overclocked FX-8140 also draws A LOT of current under load, so all those conditions together made for a bad combination of events for sure.
I love your avatar BTW. I have a car that looks a lot like that. My wife is convinced she is evil smile.gif

Thanks:) my cat looks just like the one in my avatar, my wife made me use it lol.What case do you have? there might be a way to add some airflow to that dead zone. Thats one of the reasons I try not to recomend people use the CLC's unless their case is too small for a conventional cooler/water loop.
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