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[Official] Gigabyte GA-990FXA-Series Owners Thread/Club - Page 592

post #5911 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Recursion View Post

the vrm are low type mosfet ics. Maybe you can put a thin 0.3 mm cooper plate between the mosfet and the cooler? Such a cooper plate you can buy off miniaturist creator? Perhaps it improves the warping?

A copper plate that thin is only going to bend. Its an extremely soft metal. Once it bends its still not going to contact the center of the heatsink rendering it ineffective. The only remedy that seems to work is "shimming" the board from underneath the bow pushing it back up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by miklkit View Post

That pic was taken when I was putting it back together. It no longer fit well and I had to push it this way and that to get the screws in. I started at the front and took the pic when there were no screws in the back row. After that I put the last screws in and tightened them all down, but the board still did not line up with the back panel. Then I took a screwdriver handle and pushed down on the board in that corner and it snapped into place. The back panel is now holding the board in alignment and those ports are being used. There is also a hard rubber pad behind the board under the VRMs holding them up.

You can see the Thermalright cooler behind the panel. It comes with a 2mm thick thermal pad which looks to be barely thick enough to touch the middle VRMs.

Yes sir, I had that same issue right down to the letter. The whole reason I thought to check for warping was because I tried using thermal paste and there was exactly none of it on the heatsink from the center VRM's. Then when I looked at the tape that was on the stock cooler I could see it wasn't touching it either. This is getting out of hand. I wonder if its the new "glass" PCB that is the problem or if they sourced VRM's from a different company and they run way hotter than what was originally spec'd.
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post #5912 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzyRuleZ View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Recursion View Post

the vrm are low type mosfet ics. Maybe you can put a thin 0.3 mm cooper plate between the mosfet and the cooler? Such a cooper plate you can buy off miniaturist creator? Perhaps it improves the warping?

A copper plate that thin is only going to bend. Its an extremely soft metal. Once it bends its still not going to contact the center of the heatsink rendering it ineffective. The only remedy that seems to work is "shimming" the board from underneath the bow pushing it back up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by miklkit View Post

That pic was taken when I was putting it back together. It no longer fit well and I had to push it this way and that to get the screws in. I started at the front and took the pic when there were no screws in the back row. After that I put the last screws in and tightened them all down, but the board still did not line up with the back panel. Then I took a screwdriver handle and pushed down on the board in that corner and it snapped into place. The back panel is now holding the board in alignment and those ports are being used. There is also a hard rubber pad behind the board under the VRMs holding them up.

You can see the Thermalright cooler behind the panel. It comes with a 2mm thick thermal pad which looks to be barely thick enough to touch the middle VRMs.

Yes sir, I had that same issue right down to the letter. The whole reason I thought to check for warping was because I tried using thermal paste and there was exactly none of it on the heatsink from the center VRM's. Then when I looked at the tape that was on the stock cooler I could see it wasn't touching it either. This is getting out of hand. I wonder if its the new "glass" PCB that is the problem or if they sourced VRM's from a different company and they run way hotter than what was originally spec'd.

I had the same problem with a board about two years ago and used aluminum bar stock a bit thinner than this stuff


It was rigid enough and not malleable like copper so it stayed rigid and maintained contact.
just a thought.
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post #5913 of 12377
I got a answer from gigabytes technical support of the lack of "CPU-NB" option in there latest bios for the ud5 rev 3. Tech supoort said its the Nb core option but what ive read around forums it says its not? What to belöieve?
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post #5914 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by hyp3rtraxx View Post

I got a answer from gigabytes technical support of the lack of "CPU-NB" option in there latest bios for the ud5 rev 3. Tech supoort said its the Nb core option but what ive read around forums it says its not? What to belöieve?

I personally find it hard to trust anything their support says, you're probably better off trusting people who own the board and have had to figure it out themselves.


Well I have once again decided to post on their Facebook page, I will bother them until they address these issues and find a solution.
post #5915 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellsrage View Post

I personally find it hard to trust anything their support says, you're probably better off trusting people who own the board and have had to figure it out themselves.


Well I have once again decided to post on their Facebook page, I will bother them until they address these issues and find a solution.

I see it this time so I'm responding so I'm "part of" whatever answer they decide to give you.
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post #5916 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzyRuleZ View Post

I see it this time so I'm responding so I'm "part of" whatever answer they decide to give you.

Nice! I saw the reply, so far it hasn't been hidden. Someone actually just posted about the bad times he has had with them.
post #5917 of 12377
Just wanted to add that I have placed a fan from the heatsink that came with the GPU on the mosfet cooler per the advice of Ozzie, et. al. I just used self tapping screws to screw it on there. It looks sort-of neat with the frameless fan floating next to the CPU waterblock. Throttling solved. I was able to turn the PWM down to about 15% and still keep it from throttling. I am running my 8320 at 4.6 MHz, with only +0.025 set on the voltage.

Next I would like to decouple the fan from the mosfet cooler somehow to reduce noise, as it is still (at 15%) the loudest fan in my system.
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post #5918 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by riemann42 View Post

Just wanted to add that I have placed a fan from the heatsink that came with the GPU on the mosfet cooler per the advice of Ozzie, et. al. I just used self tapping screws to screw it on there. It looks sort-of neat with the frameless fan floating next to the CPU waterblock. Throttling solved. I was able to turn the PWM down to about 15% and still keep it from throttling. I am running my 8320 at 4.6 MHz, with only +0.025 set on the voltage.

Next I would like to decouple the fan from the mosfet cooler somehow to reduce noise, as it is still (at 15%) the loudest fan in my system.

mines not frameless, but the NB/VRM heatsink gets tepid at best now


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post #5919 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red1776 View Post

mines not frameless, but the NB/VRM heatsink gets tepid at best now


I know that to do it now would involve several hours spent taking out most of your guts and loop off of the board, putting everything back in and then having to leak test... so it probably is far more of a pain in the butt then it's worth, lol, but I was wondering if you had ever considered using a water block for the board itself? I know EK makes one specifically designed for the UD7, although it's just the NB and Mosfets, with a replacement SB heatsink. I was just curious as to whether you had considered that and if you felt it was unnecessary, etc.
post #5920 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpacemanSpliff View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red1776 View Post

mines not frameless, but the NB/VRM heatsink gets tepid at best now


I know that to do it now would involve several hours spent taking out most of your guts and loop off of the board, putting everything back in and then having to leak test... so it probably is far more of a pain in the butt then it's worth, lol, but I was wondering if you had ever considered using a water block for the board itself? I know EK makes one specifically designed for the UD7, although it's just the NB and Mosfets, with a replacement SB heatsink. I was just curious as to whether you had considered that and if you felt it was unnecessary, etc.


I actually can remove /clean, and put that fan back without removing any plumbing. I thought about it once the chipset block came out but the spot fan keeps the nb/vrm so cool it's a non-issue.
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