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[Official] Gigabyte GA-990FXA-Series Owners Thread/Club - Page 594

post #5931 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by riemann42 View Post

I stuck a Noctua pointing at the NB/VRM and noticed no difference in performance (on my UD3 there are no sensors for NB or VRM, but I can tell when it throttles and touch it and either burn myself or not). Only when I put a smaller fan blowing air on the VRM did I notice a difference. The fan I used, as stated above, is one of the frameless fans that came with my 7970. I just used self tapping screws to bolt it directly to the VRM cooler. I can now touch it without burning myself, if I can manage to get my finger around the fan without losing it.

The only WB I can find that will fit this board is this at ppc. The UD7 has a different layout.

There currently are no NB/SB/Mosfet blocks from EK that are officially compatible with the 990FXA-UD3s/UD5s... just the one for the UD7 and it only covers the VRMs (mosfet) and the NB with a replacement heatsink for the SB... There are some solutions out there though... Koolance has a couple blocks that are compatible with the UD3 and UD5s NB/SB... I believe it's the CHC-122 and CHC-125, and they also have a setup you can do for the VRMs... the MVR40 with the 107.5mm heat transfer plate. All together it's about $115 for the three blocks + the extra for whatever rad(s), pump, res, fittings and tubing you want.

I have been thinking about upgrading my tower at the end of the year versus a completely new tower... I figure if I wait until Steamroller comes out, the top notch SR will probably be no more than $250, probably about $225, the ASUS Crosshair runs about $215, and 7970s will probably be in the neighborhood of $300-325 by year's end with the 8000 series launching... and the water loop I would put it all under will run me about $700. SO I can put about $1200-1300 in upgrades into my current tower (trust me the GPU would be worth it to go from a 5870 to a 7970, and if SR proves to be what we all hope it is, it'd be a worthy upgrade from an 8120) versus dropping around $2,500-3,000) for the build I'd really love and go with a SB-E rig until AMD gets on an even par with Intel and Intel is forced to stop making CPUs using shoddy, cheap TIM.

Decisions, Decisions...
Edited by SpacemanSpliff - 6/9/13 at 11:50am
post #5932 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red1776 View Post

It could also just simply be that the UD7 on the display there is just a prop or placeholder for a board/revision that has not even been manufactured as of yet. To many unknowns and scenarios to say at this point.
BTW, the original UD7 and the subsequent rev 1.1 was actually UD3, not UD5. If you expand the image you can see the' Ultra Durable 3" Low RDS Driver MOSFET package. trust me on this, i own one of each smile.gif

Open mouth... insert foot... check.

I stand corrected, man, lol.
post #5933 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpacemanSpliff View Post

There currently are no NB/SB/Mosfet blocks from EK that are officially compatible with the 990FXA-UD3s/UD5s... just the one for the UD7 and it only covers the VRMs (mosfet) and the NB with a replacement heatsink for the SB... There are some solutions out there though... Koolance has a couple blocks that are compatible with the UD3 and UD5s NB/SB... I believe it's the CHC-122 and CHC-125, and they also have a setup you can do for the VRMs... the MVR40 with the 107.5mm heat transfer plate. All together it's about $115 for the three blocks + the extra for whatever rad(s), pump, res, fittings and tubing you want.

I have been thinking about upgrading my tower at the end of the year versus a completely new tower... I figure if I wait until Steamroller comes out, the top notch SR will probably be no more than $250, probably about $225, the ASUS Crosshair runs about $215, and 7970s will probably be in the neighborhood of $300-325 by year's end with the 8000 series launching... and the water loop I would put it all under will run me about $700. SO I can put about $1200-1300 in upgrades into my current tower (trust me the GPU would be worth it to go from a 5870 to a 7970, and if SR proves to be what we all hope it is, it'd be a worthy upgrade from an 8120) versus dropping around $2,500-3,000) for the build I'd really love and go with a SB-E rig until AMD gets on an even par with Intel and Intel is forced to stop making CPUs using shoddy, cheap TIM.
.

According to the "cooling configurator" on EKWB the GA AMD Kits fit the UD3 but not UD5 (SB block does not fit). As this makes no sense, I would be reluctant to buy it without talking to EK first.

With the little fan doing the trick for now, I think I am with you on waiting to do anything until Steamroller comes out. I will got another 7970 if they drop in price enough to make it cost <$300, as then for about $400 I can get it with an EK WB to match my current one.
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post #5934 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpacemanSpliff View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red1776 View Post

It could also just simply be that the UD7 on the display there is just a prop or placeholder for a board/revision that has not even been manufactured as of yet. To many unknowns and scenarios to say at this point.
BTW, the original UD7 and the subsequent rev 1.1 was actually UD3, not UD5. If you expand the image you can see the' Ultra Durable 3" Low RDS Driver MOSFET package. trust me on this, i own one of each smile.gif

Open mouth... insert foot... check.

I stand corrected, man, lol.


Well I'm glad that has never happened to me! rolleyes.gifthumb.gif
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post #5935 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpacemanSpliff View Post

That seems to be par for the course with Gigabyte's 990FXA boards... I have a friend who uses an ASUS Crosshair for his 8350 @ 4.9 GHz and similar NB/HTT to yours on air/water cooling (H110 for the CPU, air for everything else) he never sees boards temps above 60c... I think in part it has something to do partially with the airflow inside you tower and also with the engineering and design of the board... ASUS ROG boards seem to be extremely well designed for OCs and high performance use, and Gigabyte just seems to not be at all focused on making a strictly gaming/enthusiast line of boards, at least not for AMD CPUs.

Yes maybe because my tower has not the best airflow i think but i do have 200mm bitfenix specter pro sucking air inside the case so it should be pretty good.

Its one of the strongest 200mm fans i could find so i bought it.

I did noticed some temp difference when i opened the case tho so it could be part of my case airflow that give me such a high VRM temps because when i opened it it was a few degrees cooler than with closed case so i do need to take a look at that but if it runs under 70c its fine and no issues with stability or overheating.
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post #5936 of 12377
A picture of my VRM now:
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post #5937 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by hurricane28 View Post

Yes maybe because my tower has not the best airflow i think but i do have 200mm bitfenix specter pro sucking air inside the case so it should be pretty good.

Its one of the strongest 200mm fans i could find so i bought it.

I did noticed some temp difference when i opened the case tho so it could be part of my case airflow that give me such a high VRM temps because when i opened it it was a few degrees cooler than with closed case so i do need to take a look at that but if it runs under 70c its fine and no issues with stability or overheating.

I looked at those, but got a cooler master. Doesn't move as much air as i'd like (110 CFM it says. Maybe if you put a bitfenix right behind it...). I need to put a hole in the side and mount a 120 on it, in addition to the fan I got screwed onto the VRM heatsink. Time to break out the hole saw.

-Edward
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post #5938 of 12377
I have a Silverstone FM121 120mm fan that is being used as the rear case exhaust fan. It is rated at 110cfm and I believe it because there is a strong wind coming out of the back of the case. There are 4 120mm fans rated at 56cfm pushing air into the case and they can't keep up with it. But, it is a bit noisy.

I got brave and did an OCCT large data set stress test today and temps stabilized at 42C. That made me try the small data set. It looked like it was stabilizing at 60C when it started throttling. mad.gif I know the Arctic A30 CPU HSF isn't quite good enough and will be upgrading that, but was hopeful that the VRMs would stay cool after putting the brace behind the board and upgrading the cooler. But no, the board still appears to be warped.
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post #5939 of 12377
Guys,

Sorry to change the subject, ive got a small problem, can you all help me to resolve...

At present own a UD7+8350+7990, anyways i brought a sata6 raid card from startech PEXSAT34 PCI-Ex4, well anyways when i add the raid card i cannot boot to windows if i add another sata card, or even a dual nic card...

Once i remove the extra sata card and nic card then i can boot to windows 8, the startech card has 4 internal sata6 ports for my internal hdd, my boot order is my c:, then cd/dvd rom and lastly usb hdd/flash drive.

Is there something i need to do in bios stop this happening.....

Ive looked everywhere on the web as others had similiar problems, when i have 2 PEXsat34 cards then it def wont boot to windows, seems like something is overriding the boot order... or maybe im wrong....
post #5940 of 12377
Hi, all!

Great info here, and I can't wait to start tweaking my UD3, however, right now...well, for the past 10 days, I've been getting dangerously close to clinically insane.

Specs:

I have a home-built system, which had a couple year old Asus board it in, 8 gigs of Kingston 1066 (I think it was that slow), Win 7 64-bit on a new 1 tb WD Black Caviar. The incidentals are two DVD drives, one Asus, the other, um...let's go with Whamco...a few external drives, and that about covers it.

A couple of Saturdays back, I heard this computer reboot itself...and I wasn't within five feet of it. It'd been running pretty much trouble-free for a couple of years.

Strange. Hmph, well, I'm likely not around when it happens other times.

Then it did it again about 5 minutes later.

I was working from home, 'bout 04:30, so it was MUCH to early to consider anything remotely resembling troubleshooting.

By the fourth or fifth reboot, it was constant. It wasn't even letting me get into the BIOS for more than about 5 seconds before rebooting.

I turned it off and looked at it later that day.

It looked like mobo failure, but to be certain, I took the whole system out of that case, and put it in another, which it'd been in previously for about 18 months. Different 500W PSU and everything. Same behaviour. Okay, time to play with RAM. No difference. I don't have other vid cards, so I'm a bit stuck there, but I've been an IT-guy for 15+ years, how hard can this be to figure out?! It's not PSU, it's not case wiring, it's not even getting to the HDD...

Eventually, I broke down and started mobo shopping. Found this Gigabyte on Amazon for a good price, and it had better-than-average reviews. Easy purchase.

I have it a couple of days later, thanks Amazon Prime, and I start over. Get it all built, old RAM, Coolermaster case, old peripherals, should be 100%. FWIW, the PSU in the Coolermaster is a 1KW Coolermaster PSU. Overkill, I know, but that case/PSU was for a sub-$1K 16 core server build I was working on, but never finished.

The BIOS comes up, I check a few things out, change nothing, and restart. Okay! Starting Windoze! YAY!!!!!!!!!

Hold on. What is this freezing BS at the boot screen. Meh, reboot.

Reboot now has it going to a repair screen. I try to load from DVD, nothing. I go into the BIOS, make certain the DVD player is the first boot device, still can't see it at boot, but it's there in the BIOS.

Change some USB cables...maybe that's it. Nope.

So, it refuses to boot from DVD, regardless of player its pointed at, and it won't boot from HDD.

Also, the Asus DVD drive now goes into a near-constant seek mode. I unplug it, 'cause it's invisible, anyway. Hold on...now the Whamco drive goes into a hyper-seek mode, where the active light increases in flash rate until eventually, it stops, and the drive goes dead.

????????????

Restart, the whole psychotic dance starts anew.

I've tried each PSU in each case, put in four new sticks (32GB), today, of Corsair 1600, thinking even though the BIOS can see my old RAM, maybe it's not truly compatible, and it's not on Gigabyte's list of compatibles (though I think it should be fine...y'never know).

The only thing I haven't done is start with a bare HDD, because even if it were, I can't boot from DVD...or USB for that matter, though the BIOS can see it and will let me put it as the first boot device...so it's pointless to wipe data.

For grins, I cleared the CMOS, i.e. no power and pulled the battery, then, for good measure, I went into the BIOS and reset everything to default. Looked over the readings in there, too. All six cores look happy, temps are fine, all 32 gig of RAM are accounted for...

Though, now when trying to boot, I get a steady, not blinking, cursor in the upper-left side, not in the corner, though, of a black screen and that's it. If I could get it to boot from CD/DVD, at least I could restore from a backup...I take two per week, so no big loss, there.

I've tried what I think is everything. No sound card, only the single HDD, only a DVD, both separately, different RAM slots, and a bunch of other stuff which was so silly, I can't remember...no dice.

Can y'all help an old IT-guy out with his discombobulation?

edit: This is a 3.0 board, and I updated the BIOS to FC (the latest) thinking it might be something there.
Edited by mckellyb - 6/10/13 at 4:44pm
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