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[Official] Gigabyte GA-990FXA-Series Owners Thread/Club - Page 954

post #9531 of 12377
Interesting. I told you about HW monitor. I don't think there is anything wrong with the program, it just doesn't work well with the AMD Gigabyte boards. I think the polling rate is to high and can cause malfunctions in temperature reporting. Open Hardware Monitor doesn't have this issue for me.

Quickest way to test if airflow is causing heat build up, is to simply remove the side panel.

Also for those waiting for my how-to on the motherboard back plate. I should have it posted by Saturday night.
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post #9532 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by ebduncan View Post

Interesting. I told you about HW monitor. I don't think there is anything wrong with the program, it just doesn't work well with the AMD Gigabyte boards. I think the polling rate is to high and can cause malfunctions in temperature reporting. Open Hardware Monitor doesn't have this issue for me.

Quickest way to test if airflow is causing heat build up, is to simply remove the side panel.

Also for those waiting for my how-to on the motherboard back plate. I should have it posted by Saturday night.

It's a crazy difference in temp reading.
Actually I leave the side casing door removed in order to get the most fresh air in. If I close the side and front doors the temp rises considerably.
I really need better cooling...the top fan is not that bad, it's drawing air out but it's not that warm so it means it's not sucking enough heat out?!

And the issue with the front large fan is that it sends air but too low in the middle of the casing. You can barely feel it's air passing beyond the RAM so there is little to none cool air at the NB point
post #9533 of 12377
I am redoing my OC for my 690 III build.

I am wondering if the following is OK. Mind you I do have all energy saving features on. I believe, if it is what I want to run every day, I should test with them on as well.



post #9534 of 12377
Ok. Well as promised I was cleaning my computer out today and decided to repeat the process I did to make a back plate for the VRM section of the board.

Note: If you use Aluminum bar that is only 1/2" wide you will not have to grind anything, I had 3/4" wide bar laying around so that is what I used.

Materials used

-Aluminum bar 1/8" thick, 3/4" wide, roughly 95mm Long
-0.5mm thermal pad 95mm long x 2
-Two Nuts and Bolts (forget the exact size)
-Thermal Paste (NON CONDUCTIVE!)
-Electrical Tape
-Permanent marker ( I used blue)

Step one. You will have to cut the Aluminum bar It needs to be at least 95mm long, and no longer than 100mm.

Step two. Place the Stock VRM heatsink on top of the Aluminum plate and mark the holes for drlling. Drill the holes. Test fit the screws to make sure you have proper fitment.

vrm001_zpsf8621ee5.jpg
Step 3. Place the Plate on the back of the motherboard. You will see solder points that you don't want this aluminum plate to touch. Mark your plate in the areas where there is contact or where the plate gets a little to close for comfort.
vrm002_zps984cf9cf.jpg

Step 4. Use a file or grinder or sorts to grind the spots you marked. I used a dremel with a (9901 Tungsten Carbide Cutter)

Step 5. Test fit, if everything looks ok then proceed to wrap the plate in electrical tape (I recommend this, though it may not be needed) I certainly didn't want to take any chances when it comes to having this short the motherboard out. (I used one layer)
vrm003_zps058c58a0.jpg
Step 6. Clean your VRMs, I used a old toothbrush to remove any dust. Then some q-tips dipped in rubbing alcohol to get anything left over. Apply small drop of thermal paste on each VRM mosfet. NOTE YOU MUST USE NON CONDUCTIVE Thermal Paste. You don't need to use the thermal paste if you don't want to, but this helps the thermal transfer.

Step 7. Put a thermal pad on both the aluminum plate and on the vrm heatsink. Put back together. Make sure you tighten the nuts and bolts well. If your motherboard is warped this is critical.

Step 8. Your done. Enjoy the better passive cooling on the VRM, also say goodbye to the motherboard being warped in this area.
001_zpsb1178533.jpg
Edited by ebduncan - 3/22/14 at 3:12pm
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post #9535 of 12377
Good deal thumb.gif Do they have sticks of aluminum at the hardware store for this, I don't have any. Got a dremel and drill though so that's no problem.

This will only work for my waterblock if I can find screws long enough... Not sure what size they were either but they were really small. Maybe M1 or M2? I'll have to take it out of the block and see.
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post #9536 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3TAl View Post

Good deal thumb.gif Do they have sticks of aluminum at the hardware store for this, I don't have any. Got a dremel and drill though so that's no problem.

This will only work for my waterblock if I can find screws long enough... Not sure what size they were either but they were really small. Maybe M1 or M2? I'll have to take it out of the block and see.

I am pretty sure I used M2 screws. I know Lowes sells aluminum bar in the hardware section.
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post #9537 of 12377
Since I'm using a waterblock the screw size has to be just right. Same for the length. The screws goes right into the waterblock from the backside, where the aluminum bar will be.
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
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Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
2x Crucial MX100 + 960GB M500 2x WD Blue RAID EK Supremacy EK-FC R9-290X Lightning 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
EK XE 480 + EK CoolStream PE 480 10x Phanteks + 2x Cougar Vortex MCP50X + MCP50X Windows 10 Pro 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
ViewSonic VX2250 22" LED Generic HP Corsair AX860i Lian-Li DK-Q2X 
MouseMouse PadAudioOther
Logitech G700 XTRAC Ripper TC Electronic Impact Twin Corsair Commander Mini 
OtherOther
Schiit Vali Kanto Yumi (Bamboo) 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-8350 4.95GHz 24/7 GA-990FXA-UD3 Sapphire 7870 XT  Mushkin Redline 997051 @1866 8-8-8-24 1T 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer @1866 8-8-8-2... Black WD6401AALS 2x WD10EZEX Raid-0 EK Supremacy 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
10x Cougar Vortex PWM 3x Helix EK VGA Supremacy Acetal Alphacool NexXxos ST30 240mm, 2x XT45 240mm XSPC X2O 750 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Jingway DP-600 pump Windows 8.1 Pro x64 ViewSonic VX2250 22" LED Generic HP 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Rosewill HIVE-650 CM 690 II Advanced B&W  Logitech G700 Xonar DG 
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DeskoSaurus X
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It Does Stuff
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4790K 4.7 GHz Z97 MPOWER MAX AC 290X Lightning G. Skill TridentX 2x8GB 10-12-12 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
2x Crucial MX100 + 960GB M500 2x WD Blue RAID EK Supremacy EK-FC R9-290X Lightning 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
EK XE 480 + EK CoolStream PE 480 10x Phanteks + 2x Cougar Vortex MCP50X + MCP50X Windows 10 Pro 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
ViewSonic VX2250 22" LED Generic HP Corsair AX860i Lian-Li DK-Q2X 
MouseMouse PadAudioOther
Logitech G700 XTRAC Ripper TC Electronic Impact Twin Corsair Commander Mini 
OtherOther
Schiit Vali Kanto Yumi (Bamboo) 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-8350 4.95GHz 24/7 GA-990FXA-UD3 Sapphire 7870 XT  Mushkin Redline 997051 @1866 8-8-8-24 1T 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer @1866 8-8-8-2... Black WD6401AALS 2x WD10EZEX Raid-0 EK Supremacy 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
10x Cougar Vortex PWM 3x Helix EK VGA Supremacy Acetal Alphacool NexXxos ST30 240mm, 2x XT45 240mm XSPC X2O 750 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Jingway DP-600 pump Windows 8.1 Pro x64 ViewSonic VX2250 22" LED Generic HP 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Rosewill HIVE-650 CM 690 II Advanced B&W  Logitech G700 Xonar DG 
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post #9538 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3TAl View Post

Since I'm using a waterblock the screw size has to be just right. Same for the length. The screws goes right into the waterblock from the backside, where the aluminum bar will be.

Im sure you could use some washers to take up some slack if you got a longer screw and it was to long.
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Silent But Deadly
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Windows 10 Pro  SAMSUNG 40" UN40KU6300 Func Kb 460 SeaSonic X Series X-850  
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post #9539 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by ebduncan View Post

Ok. Well as promised I was cleaning my computer out today and decided to repeat the process I did to make a back plate for the VRM section of the board.

Note: If you use Aluminum bar that is only 1/2" wide you will not have to grind anything, I had 3/4" wide bar laying around so that is what I used.

Materials used

-Aluminum bar 1/8" thick, 3/4" wide, roughly 95mm Long
-0.5mm thermal pad 95mm long x 2
-Two Nuts and Bolts (forget the exact size)
-Thermal Paste (NON CONDUCTIVE!)
-Electrical Tape
-Permanent marker ( I used blue)

Step one. You will have to cut the Aluminum bar It needs to be at least 95mm long, and no longer than 100mm.

Step two. Place the Stock VRM heatsink on top of the Aluminum plate and mark the holes for drlling. Drill the holes. Test fit the screws to make sure you have proper fitment.

vrm001_zpsf8621ee5.jpg
Step 3. Place the Plate on the back of the motherboard. You will see solder points that you don't want this aluminum plate to touch. Mark your plate in the areas where there is contact or where the plate gets a little to close for comfort.
vrm002_zps984cf9cf.jpg

Step 4. Use a file or grinder or sorts to grind the spots you marked. I used a dremel with a (9901 Tungsten Carbide Cutter)

Step 5. Test fit, if everything looks ok then proceed to wrap the plate in electrical tape (I recommend this, though it may not be needed) I certainly didn't want to take any chances when it comes to having this short the motherboard out. (I used one layer)
vrm003_zps058c58a0.jpg
Step 6. Clean your VRMs, I used a old toothbrush to remove any dust. Then some q-tips dipped in rubbing alcohol to get anything left over. Apply small drop of thermal paste on each VRM mosfet. NOTE YOU MUST USE NON CONDUCTIVE Thermal Paste. You don't need to use the thermal paste if you don't want to, but this helps the thermal transfer.

Step 7. Put a thermal pad on both the aluminum plate and on the vrm heatsink. Put back together. Make sure you tighten the nuts and bolts well. If your motherboard is warped this is critical.

Step 8. Your done. Enjoy the better passive cooling on the VRM, also say goodbye to the motherboard being warped in this area.
001_zpsb1178533.jpg

Great job..

Just wanna ask what Thermal Pad would you recommend?

I can only source out 3Ms and Shin-Etsus.
post #9540 of 12377
Phobya do a line, 0.5mm, 1.0mm and 1.5mm thickness.

If you can't find any locally or on eBay, PCCG might ship to you.
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