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[Official] Gigabyte GA-990FXA-Series Owners Thread/Club - Page 963

post #9621 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3TAl View Post

Which mosfet blocks are you looking at? Only two that are still made that I know of which fit the 1.0/1.1/1.2/3.0 boards is the Enzotech WMST-88 and one of the universal Koolance blocks. I almost got the Enzotech but happened to get one of the very last EK AMD kits on massive clearance. Clear plexi too, goes perfect with this clean plexi Supremacy block smile.gif

Koolance block, or a used AMD Ek product.
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post #9622 of 12377
I'll be interested how it performs if you get it. Though we have no sensor for it. I use a thermal probe on the back of the board.

Using Fujipoly on stock heatsink with a blower fan was actually better temps than the EK block but ton of noise... I run all my fans at 800 RPM and the VRM temps are only ~5C worse than blasting that fan right at the heatsink.
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post #9623 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3TAl View Post

I'll be interested how it performs if you get it. Though we have no sensor for it. I use a thermal probe on the back of the board.

Using Fujipoly on stock heatsink with a blower fan was actually better temps than the EK block but ton of noise... I run all my fans at 800 RPM and the VRM temps are only ~5C worse than blasting that fan right at the heatsink.

I will let you know If I do decide to water block them. I have a thermal probe i can monitor the PCB temp by the VRM's.

Currently I made a nice thick aluminum back plate for the vrms and have a Vantec 80mm silent fan blowing on them.

I haven't decided if i am going to spend anymore money on this computer though, If i spend money it will likely be in the form of upgrading the cpu/mobo. Waterblocking the vrms isn't going to give me any speed bonuses, and will not allow me to overclock further, so kinda seems like wasted money. Right now the Vrm's get hot but the temperatures are acceptable.
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post #9624 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by ebduncan View Post

I will let you know If I do decide to water block them. I have a thermal probe i can monitor the PCB temp by the VRM's.

Currently I made a nice thick aluminum back plate for the vrms and have a Vantec 80mm silent fan blowing on them.

I haven't decided if i am going to spend anymore money on this computer though, If i spend money it will likely be in the form of upgrading the cpu/mobo. Waterblocking the vrms isn't going to give me any speed bonuses, and will not allow me to overclock further, so kinda seems like wasted money. Right now the Vrm's get hot but the temperatures are acceptable.

The most economical way to improve the VRM temp would be slapping in a piece of a junk aluminum heatsink from an old computer bolted into the backplate you have. Will add rigidness on the backplate as well. That is if you can fit it in the back of your motherboard tray and the case cover. thumb.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by M3TAl View Post

I'll be interested how it performs if you get it. Though we have no sensor for it. I use a thermal probe on the back of the board.

Using Fujipoly on stock heatsink with a blower fan was actually better temps than the EK block but ton of noise... I run all my fans at 800 RPM and the VRM temps are only ~5C worse than blasting that fan right at the heatsink.

Just confirmed what I thought about the VRM sensors. It seems there's really none.. My hands were not temp probes but I can tell which temp will be acceptable in my point of view.
post #9625 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by mus1mus View Post

The most economical way to improve the VRM temp would be slapping in a piece of a junk aluminum heatsink from an old computer bolted into the backplate you have. Will add rigidness on the backplate as well. That is if you can fit it in the back of your motherboard tray and the case cover. thumb.gif
Just confirmed what I thought about the VRM sensors. It seems there's really none.. My hands were not temp probes but I can tell which temp will be acceptable in my point of view.

the VRMs have a temperature sensor. It will shut down your computer automatically if it reaches critical levels. It is not monitored by most if not all temperature monitoring software. I'm sure someone could add it if they really wanted to.

The black plate I made is rigid. It's 1/4" thick aluminum. Adding a heatsink to the back plate would improve cooling of the vrms, but its not really needed even in my setuyp. (5ghz 8320 with 1.55 volts) Sure they could run cooler, but as long as it doesn't go into thermal shut down is fine by me.
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post #9626 of 12377
The Rev. 4.0 UD3 has two sensors. I'm not sure about VRM protection on 1.0/1.1/1.2 however.. I have a 1.1 970A-UD3 too, identical in VRM design to the 990FXA. My friend also had the 1.1 970A-UD3. He blew the VRM on it running OCCT at a high OC. There was no shutdown or throttling at all.

There have been other cases around the web of blown VRM on UD3's like this one http://www.overclock.net/t/1376059/gigabyte-990fx-vrm-fried-warranty-need-advice or this one http://www.brightsideofnews.com/news/2012/12/31/gigabyte-ends-the-year-with-a-bang-kills-amd-fx-8350-cpu.aspx.

Don't think they added protection until rev. 3.0 and 4.0.
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post #9627 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3TAl View Post

The Rev. 4.0 UD3 has two sensors. I'm not sure about VRM protection on 1.0/1.1/1.2 however.. I have a 1.1 970A-UD3 too, identical in VRM design to the 990FXA. My friend also had the 1.1 970A-UD3. He blew the VRM on it running OCCT at a high OC. There was no shutdown or throttling at all.

There have been other cases around the web of blown VRM on UD3's like this one http://www.overclock.net/t/1376059/gigabyte-990fx-vrm-fried-warranty-need-advice or this one http://www.brightsideofnews.com/news/2012/12/31/gigabyte-ends-the-year-with-a-bang-kills-amd-fx-8350-cpu.aspx.

Don't think they added protection until rev. 3.0 and 4.0.

My 1.0 rev will automatically reboot if the VRM temp goes over 100c. It might be a bios revision thing. I could pass stress tests and such but once i played a game such as bf4, or crysis 3 it would be a problem. I added a back plate to the VRM's and well no longer reboots under my overclock settings.

So I believe its a bios revision they added VRM protection. I could be wrong though.
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post #9628 of 12377
I know I've had the thermal probe on the back of the board where the mosfets are hit 98C before (doing some high OC/voltage bench/stress) so who knows what the actual mosfet temps were. Never had a shutdown or throttle either. Mine's a 1.1 on F9 BIOS.

Weird that your gaming temps are higher. Something like IBT/P95/OCCT always runs significantly hotter than games for me. Like BF4 it will be around 45C with 28C ambient at 4.95GHz The only time it gets significantly higher is loading maps, it will jump to 55-60C for about 1 second during map loads. A stress test will be anywhere from 55-60C+ depending on which test it is.
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post #9629 of 12377
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3TAl View Post

I know I've had the thermal probe on the back of the board where the mosfets are hit 98C before (doing some high OC/voltage bench/stress) so who knows what the actual mosfet temps were. Never had a shutdown or throttle either. Mine's a 1.1 on F9 BIOS.

Weird that your gaming temps are higher. Something like IBT/P95/OCCT always runs significantly hotter than games for me. Like BF4 it will be around 45C with 28C ambient at 4.95GHz The only time it gets significantly higher is loading maps, it will jump to 55-60C for about 1 second during map loads. A stress test will be anywhere from 55-60C+ depending on which test it is.

Well its worth noting the rev 1.0 has different VRM structure than the 1.1+ boards have. IBT and P95 are mostly cpu stress tests. In those cases my CPU temps are higher, but not VRM temps. In gaming there is a larger load on the VRM due to the board having to provide power to the PCI-E slot, memory, and the CPU. In stressful games like I mentioned caused the VRM temps to be the highest.
Edited by ebduncan - 4/9/14 at 10:02am
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post #9630 of 12377
in games vrm hit 90-95C on castlevania2, and 80C or so in gta. My board will not restart when vrm hit 100C, it keeps going strong. UD3 rev4. It's working at 100C on vrm for hours. When my nephew came at my house he play 5 hours and no problems. I saw 106C maximum temp.
And donk know why but when Norton NIS start scaning vrm temp goes to the moon, hitting 96C easy, in 2-3 minutes.

All these are with my passive Tuniq Tower, , with it started on low( 1000 rotation) vrm temp dropped 30 C at least.
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