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post #681 of 796
thanks i add so more lighting
post #682 of 796
thanks i added some more lighting to the buld and here how i setup the hdd's and ssd's

heres how i setup the hdd's using the quick release brackets the came in the drive bays









they hold very well and they dont even pick up heat from the rad. dont mind the lack of cable management im waiting for my 3rd and 4th gtx 580 to come in then im tearing the rig down and doing green and black cable sleeving
post #683 of 796
Quote:
Originally Posted by danman4734 View Post

thanks i added some more lighting to the buld and here how i setup the hdd's and ssd's

heres how i setup the hdd's using the quick release brackets the came in the drive bays









they hold very well and they dont even pick up heat from the rad. dont mind the lack of cable management im waiting for my 3rd and 4th gtx 580 to come in then im tearing the rig down and doing green and black cable sleeving

cheers hadnt thought of using the drive sleds doh.gif
post #684 of 796
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElevenEleven View Post

The width of the actual metal frame of the case is 8 1/8" (approximating the width inside the case from wall to wall). The height of the plastic shroud on top of the case above the metal frame of the case is 1 1/8". The handle folds into the shroud to be flush with it at the top. Do you need the internal height and length of the case too?

Could I have the internal length and height too and also the distance between the back of the case and the 120mm fan mount in the bottom.

Also how do you find the airflow of this case (the airflow in the bottom doesn't look great as there is no way for the air to get to those bottom mounts as the plastic shroud goes all around and there are only tiny tiny feet?)

Thanks + Rep for the measurements
post #685 of 796
Sorry, been busy and it slipped my mind. Thanks for the reminder. The internal length of the case (inside the metal frame) is 17 1/8", and the internal height is 17 1/4".

I couldn't help you with airflow in the standard configuration, because I disassembled mine as soon as I got it to turn it into reverse ATX. My airflow situation is great now, and I also have an additional 120cm fan (Noctua NF-S12B ULN) mounted outside of the removed PCI-E bracket covers to draw hot air from the GPU. The case is silent even when gaming, but again, everything I did with it was directed toward better GPU cooling.

The airflow at the bottom is definitely poor without modding. The plastic shroud can come off if needed and put back on--it's screwed on. I would add small feet to the case or wheels or similar to get some good bottom intake or exhaust.

Poor lighting in that room, as always, but here's a quick photo of the reverse-ATX set-up as it is right now (arrows show airflow. Most of the top vent is blocked by the PSU, but there's some space that allows air to pass in and out. PSU has its fan down, but it almost never turns on, since the system doesn't draw more than 250Watts even in games so far (with an overclocked 7970!)




Edited by ElevenEleven - 3/19/13 at 2:50pm
   
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Crucial m4 Hitachi TravelStar 2.5" SATA III Intel 330  BitFenix Recon fan controller 
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Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Crucial m4 Hitachi TravelStar 2.5" SATA III Intel 330  BitFenix Recon fan controller 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Corsair H100i Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-14 x 4 (radiator front... Phanteks 140mm fan (exhaust) Fractal Design R2 Silent 140mm fan (bottom intake) 
OSOSOSMonitor
Windows 7 Professional 64-bit Windows 8 Professional 64-bit (trying it out) Linux Mint Achieva ShiMian 27" IPSB (tempered glass) 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell U2412M 24" LZ-GH aluminum/steel TKL keyboard Seasonic G-550 80+ Gold Fractal Design Define R4 
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post #686 of 796
Thanks!

I want to put a 120mm monsta in the bottom next to the power supply so I think I will need to move that fan hole closer to the front of the case, I also want to put a 360mm monsta in the front in push/pull I am not sure whether the ventilation from the bottom half of the front panel will be enough for this? I will also put a slim 240mm rad up top if I can work it and maybe even a 120 at the back!!!

My plan was to make a small stand which raises the case up by 1cm or so just to give that bottom rad some breathing space
post #687 of 796
You'd have to remove the 5.25" drive cage completely to fit such a radiator at the front (it's riveted, so you will need to drill out the rivets from it and also the hard drive cage). I would also invest into some meshed 5.25" bay covers too then for added ventilation for your radiator.

Fan mounting does not need to be done with screws or rubber fasteners. I frequently use zip ties or very strong velcro. There is a kind that is plastic on both sides, and is very very strong. My rear 120mm Noctua exhaust fan is mounted on the outside of the case with such "velcro". You can see it here on this top-down photo of the rear of the case. The translucent stuff between the fan and the case is the velcro:



Like these Scotch 3M fasteners

You can use mounting tape or weaker velcro to mount your bottom fan off-center from where the holes are if needed. It provides dampening as well as freedom of placement.

I'm a huge fan of velcro for fans and SSD / small drive placement in unconventional areas. Also, as you can see, the hard drive in my family member's case is placed onto the 5.25" drive cage with some vibration dampening material under it, and the SSD is placed on top of the drive. Saved me from having to use any drive cages. The only reason I'm using the bottom 5.25" drive bay is because of small bay devices I needed to use which I could not conveniently secure otherwise (fan controller, NZXT Hue, and a DVD drive).

P.S.: If you want to see the internals of the Survivor case in detail, see my mod thread. I've got lots of various photos of the parts and the metal "cage" frame.
Edited by ElevenEleven - 3/19/13 at 3:12pm
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3770 @ 4.3 GHz ASRock Z77E-ITX GTX 660 Ti + Accelero Mono Plus, 1.875V G.Skill Ripjaws X 16GB at 2133MHz 9-10-11-28-1T... 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Crucial m4 Hitachi TravelStar 2.5" SATA III Intel 330  BitFenix Recon fan controller 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Corsair H100i Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-14 x 4 (radiator front... Phanteks 140mm fan (exhaust) Fractal Design R2 Silent 140mm fan (bottom intake) 
OSOSOSMonitor
Windows 7 Professional 64-bit Windows 8 Professional 64-bit (trying it out) Linux Mint Achieva ShiMian 27" IPSB (tempered glass) 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell U2412M 24" LZ-GH aluminum/steel TKL keyboard Seasonic G-550 80+ Gold Fractal Design Define R4 
MouseMouse PadOtherOther
Logitech MX518 Monoprice dual-surface aluminum IKEA Dioder light-changing LED strip on the roof Monoprice 10 x 6.25" drawing tablet 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 2400 3.8GHz turbo boost Gigabyte z68x-ud3h-b3 Sapphire Dual-X 7970 OC Samsung 30nm ULP  
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
Corsair Force 3 LG DVD-RW Zalman CNPS9900MAX-B Noctua NF-S12B ULN 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-14 Fractal Design R2 Silent 140mm fan Bitfenix Spectre 200mm fan Windows 7 Professional 64-bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Achieva ShiMian 27" IPSB (tempered glass) Ducky Shine II MX Clears Corsair AX750 BitFenix Survivor in White 
MouseMouse PadOtherOther
Logitech MX518 Ikea circle! NZXT Hue Lamptron FC-9 
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i7 3770 @ 4.3 GHz ASRock Z77E-ITX GTX 660 Ti + Accelero Mono Plus, 1.875V G.Skill Ripjaws X 16GB at 2133MHz 9-10-11-28-1T... 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Crucial m4 Hitachi TravelStar 2.5" SATA III Intel 330  BitFenix Recon fan controller 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Corsair H100i Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-14 x 4 (radiator front... Phanteks 140mm fan (exhaust) Fractal Design R2 Silent 140mm fan (bottom intake) 
OSOSOSMonitor
Windows 7 Professional 64-bit Windows 8 Professional 64-bit (trying it out) Linux Mint Achieva ShiMian 27" IPSB (tempered glass) 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell U2412M 24" LZ-GH aluminum/steel TKL keyboard Seasonic G-550 80+ Gold Fractal Design Define R4 
MouseMouse PadOtherOther
Logitech MX518 Monoprice dual-surface aluminum IKEA Dioder light-changing LED strip on the roof Monoprice 10 x 6.25" drawing tablet 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 2400 3.8GHz turbo boost Gigabyte z68x-ud3h-b3 Sapphire Dual-X 7970 OC Samsung 30nm ULP  
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
Corsair Force 3 LG DVD-RW Zalman CNPS9900MAX-B Noctua NF-S12B ULN 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-14 Fractal Design R2 Silent 140mm fan Bitfenix Spectre 200mm fan Windows 7 Professional 64-bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Achieva ShiMian 27" IPSB (tempered glass) Ducky Shine II MX Clears Corsair AX750 BitFenix Survivor in White 
MouseMouse PadOtherOther
Logitech MX518 Ikea circle! NZXT Hue Lamptron FC-9 
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post #688 of 796
Hi guys! My new Ghost arrived today.
It looks majestic! and is a very nice case overall, although it feels a bit filmsy (too much plastic, very thin steel, the door is too hard to open and the pop-up covers on the top are just too easy to push).

the build when smoothly and easy, looking quite good and tidy enough:

except there are no binding points to anchor the cables behind the motherboard. plus, you can't cross any cable with the thick 24 pin ATX cable, because then it would stand too tall. So all that space on the right, behind the motherboard, is going to waste.


and when I tried to close the right panel....



DISASTER! it won't close!!

the problem isn't the amount of cables I tried to fit there.. it's the HARD DISK POWER AND DATA CABLES: THERE'S NO CLEARANCE!!
At first I thought I had them installed in the wrong direction, but turning them with the connection facing the left panel is even worse!



How come I can't find anybody complaining about this?? my PSU has standard sata connectors. I've tried using 90° turned sata connectors (as in the pictures), but that's not enough.
Anyone else had this problem? How did you solve it? do I have to buy 90° turned connectors??

I want to like this case, which I choose so carefully, but this looks to me like a major engineering flaw! and it wasn't mentioned in any review I read =(
Edited by val43 - 3/26/13 at 5:42pm
post #689 of 796
i'm sorry, double post
post #690 of 796
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElevenEleven View Post

You'd have to remove the 5.25" drive cage completely to fit such a radiator at the front (it's riveted, so you will need to drill out the rivets from it and also the hard drive cage). I would also invest into some meshed 5.25" bay covers too then for added ventilation for your radiator.

Fan mounting does not need to be done with screws or rubber fasteners. I frequently use zip ties or very strong velcro. There is a kind that is plastic on both sides, and is very very strong. My rear 120mm Noctua exhaust fan is mounted on the outside of the case with such "velcro". You can see it here on this top-down photo of the rear of the case. The translucent stuff between the fan and the case is the velcro:



Like these Scotch 3M fasteners

You can use mounting tape or weaker velcro to mount your bottom fan off-center from where the holes are if needed. It provides dampening as well as freedom of placement.

I'm a huge fan of velcro for fans and SSD / small drive placement in unconventional areas. Also, as you can see, the hard drive in my family member's case is placed onto the 5.25" drive cage with some vibration dampening material under it, and the SSD is placed on top of the drive. Saved me from having to use any drive cages. The only reason I'm using the bottom 5.25" drive bay is because of small bay devices I needed to use which I could not conveniently secure otherwise (fan controller, NZXT Hue, and a DVD drive).

P.S.: If you want to see the internals of the Survivor case in detail, see my mod thread. I've got lots of various photos of the parts and the metal "cage" frame.

thanks for all the info, just got my survivor the other day and already the handle has broken thumbsdownsmileyanim.gif, no worries though as I will be taking it out and putting one big bit of mesh up there. and yes I do plan on drilling out the 5.25 and 3.5 bays for the rad biggrin.gif
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