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GTX 480 - Stripped Screw x3 T_T - Page 2

post #11 of 17
Thread Starter 
I'll try the super glue idea once I buy some of it, hah..The Dremel idea scares me a bit to be honest. Are their different size drills for a Dremel? Because I got one at work, but the drill part seems pretty big..I'll also give JB weld a try, although the whole waiting 24hrs or so is a b*tch. I work with JB weld at my job, and it definitely takes a while to dry.
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post #12 of 17
Aircraft mechanic here. How stripped out are the screws? How did they get stripped out? If there is still some edge left, you can get them out just by pushing down VERY hard as you try to turn them. At work we'd use a speed handle, which looks like this:

It allows you to put your entire body weight on the screw if necessary. (Though I wouldn't use that much force on a graphics card!) This is the quickest, safest, and most desirable solution. You probably don't have a speed handle, but a manual screwdriver is preferable to a power drill as you have more control. You'd obviously need to secure the card in a way that you don't damage it.

With the screw extractor, again the key is to push down HARD. The teeth have to bite metal, and that takes force.

If that doesn't work, just drill it out. Serously though, this solution sucks- you stand a good chance of messing up the threads on the card, and may cause even more damage than that if you miss. Clamp the card so it doesn't move, use a bit smaller than the screw diameter (but only barely), be very careful to drill straight down, and don't go deeper than the screw. This is the most dangerous solution; try everything else first.

Anyway let this be a lesson; don't frigging strip out screws. When your screwdriver is turning and the screw isn't, even a quarter turn, you need to push down harder.

Edit: It's also important to make sure that the screwdriver fits the screw. Otherwise you have worse grip, and are more likely to strip it out. Same goes for the extractor.

Another edit: In the future, don't overtighten screws either and you won't have this problem. Especially in no-vibration, low stress applications (like pretty much everything in a computer), snug is fine. Don't crank it down as tight as you can! They aren't going to spontaneously unscrew and fall out.
Edited by Traches - 5/24/11 at 10:06pm
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post #13 of 17
I had a 5870 with a stripped screw, I ended up needing to RMA it and it worked out fine.
    
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post #14 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doom View Post
If you have room use a dremel to cut a small slot in the head to fit a flat head screwdriver, but it's a bit extreme.
The super glue trick works sometimes try that first.
DO NOT do this. Screws on the 470/480 are too close to the pcb. Pioneerisloud has first hand experience.
post #15 of 17
Also i would consider trying to tighten it a little,just to "break" the threadlock,
then unscrewing wouldn't be so difficult,especially if the lefty direct mating points are a bit weakened.

Read up on pioneerisloud thread on this also,he stripped a screw or two and lots of people advised him to dremel them,he fubarred his 480.

The diagonal edge of a square file would probably be the safest bet,just to notch out enough to get a score deep enough to put a flathead pattern on the screw
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post #16 of 17
Thread Starter 
Question! Does the Alden Grabit Pro really work? I've read about numerous people around the interwebz that said they got good results from using it. I had this...not even two days ago, but returned it thinking that I was just fu*king things up worse.

@Lostintyme - great avatar, haha. Linus has one amazing job! And yeah, I stalk his Youtube updates as well.

Not sure if an RMA would work out for me, considering this is a second hand Gfx card. I'm sure the warranty deal is long n' gone.
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post #17 of 17
Thread Starter 
Bumpity bump. Waterblock n' such still otw. Nobody here have experience with the Grabit Pro?
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