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Passive Loop? - Page 3

post #21 of 34
Refrigerator compressors are not designed to run continuously. You will actually most likely burn out the compressor very quickly if you try to cool your components using it. Refrigerator compressors are designed to work to keep the temperature constant by sporadically working when heat is introduced into the fridge. Notice that if you place a hot bowl of soup into your refrigerator that it will take awhile for the compressor to bring the temperature back down. They don't work very quickly and by continuously running it you'll break it.
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post #22 of 34
Thread Starter 
got it. what about a portable airconditioner unit blowing right into a rad?
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post #23 of 34
The AlphaCool Cape CORA 642 Passive Radiator looks a bit promising. Might want to give it a look.
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post #24 of 34
passive yes if the contents of the loop in gallons is large enough. Passive while Folding/crunching 24/7 no. you will need some air movement but, depending on the size of rad not all that much. I run 4 rigs on a 80 X 80cm rad and,running passive, it takes maybe an hour to increase by 10 deg C. but even with the fan on slowest only a couple of minutes to drop back down again.

If you can remote the rad to outside then the noise goes with it but size it right and find a quiet fan like from an aircon unit if running slow and the noise will not be an issue (probably)
post #25 of 34
Question? What about passive but not passive without fans but passive without pump? I’ve been researching a while this subject but real workflow examples are hard to find. Some low rpm fans are not that noisy and depending in the system TDP for sure you can find big enough rad’s to clear the heat. But what happens if there is no pump at all? Really big tubing of course and really good tubing layout. In my opinion the problem would be with current type of WB blocks witch are not optimized for this but rather high flow.
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post #26 of 34
Thread Starter 
? there has to be a pump, to circulate the fluid. if not, the hot water just sits in the block and take no heat away.
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post #27 of 34
Not necessarily mate. Hot water rises, cold water from rad lowers and thus you can have some flow. As the difference is bigger between hot and cold point of the loop the flow is stronger. Because the cold point is in the best condition ambient temperature for sure hot point (CPU WB) is somewhere above that. The problem is maximizing flow. Rad's are already good enough in cooling water. My question was is WB good enough in heating water at low flow? Don't think so. So that’s why current results with “classic” loop setup are not promising and everybody dumps them. After I will get my water setup on I will try modifying one WB and see if I can prove this. I will try to make a standard air-cooling block (fins type aluminum block) but cooled with water around it. Onlly issue is I can not find a proper copper one (as this are generally aluminum made). Another solution with be to change the fins from a heat pipe type cooler with copper fins and try it. Anyway I try to stay on the theoretical side of this discusion.
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post #28 of 34
Just use AP-11 gentle typhoons (500rpm) or scythe slipstream 800rpm. I have both and at low rpm they're only audible if you put your ear right next to them pretty much.
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post #29 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by systemlayers View Post
Just use AP-11 gentle typhoons (500rpm) or scythe slipstream 800rpm. I have both and at low rpm they're only audible if you put your ear right next to them pretty much.
There is a group order going on the GT 2150 rpm fans. I would try and get those and just get a fan controller for when they become to 'loud'.

I have two of the 1850 rpm models and can't hear them at all almost (partly because of my case).
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post #30 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by [nK]Sharp View Post
There is a group order going on the GT 2150 rpm fans. I would try and get those and just get a fan controller for when they become to 'loud'.

I have two of the 1850 rpm models and can't hear them at all almost (partly because of my case).
Geeze the people on overclock sure have funny opinions on what is quiet. 1850 rpm isn't quiet, 1200rpm isn't quiet unless that model gets down to a usable 800rpm it's not a quiet fan. I might have to try that model just to see what the hype is about and how it undervolts. A good well performing cheap fan that undervolts to about 400rpm before clicking is the scythe slipstream 1200rpm that's my choice for a fan controlled fan anyways. Anything rated over 20db is pretty noisy imo and the AP-15s are rated at 28db! This guy is asking for a passive system to reduce noise if he's even considering fans he should be considering <15db fans. A quiet home at night would probably sit around 10-15db just guessing but that's the area he should shoot for in terms of noise IF he attaches fans to his radiator. Why start with an extremely noisy fan to begin with then spend 40 bucks on a fan controller?
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