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The Reosmart PMW controllers?? - Page 2

post #11 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by whiteslashasian;13649149 
Since your 35x is PWM, that's all you need connected to the Rheosmart in order for it to give the "PWM" feature to all fans should you enable it, correct?

I don't mind leaving my 355 at full throttle, but 10+ fans...those have to be controlled biggrin.gif

Yeah, I just used the rheosmarts pwm splitter to split between the rheo and 35X. This just splits the PWM singal and allows the pump rpm to be monitored through the CPU header.

Each one works independantly but share one PWM signal coming from the motherboard for boards that only have one 4pin fan header. No power is drawn from the MB, they each draw power from the molex connectors.

Works good, but you do need MB PWM software such as GB easytune, or other if possible. My MSI board didn't come with anything, so I had to use speedfan.
    
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post #12 of 17
Glad to hear good about that controller. I am thinking of getting the "3" one and modding it into my case somehow.
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post #13 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by goodtobeking View Post
Glad to hear good about that controller. I am thinking of getting the "3" one and modding it into my case somehow.
I am contemplating the same idea. But I might like to use the Rheosmart PCI instead. That would be easier to incorporate it into a custom 5.25" front panel.

Problem is, I would like the controller to take care of my 4 or 8 rad fans and it looks like both the PCI and the 3 are underpowered for it. Also the PCI unit has no heatsink and it is only rated at 20W per channel while the 3 and 6 are rated 30W per channel.
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post #14 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
Works good, but you do need MB PWM software such as GB easytune, or other if possible. My MSI board didn't come with anything, so I had to use speedfan.
Foxconn blows as well, decoding speedfan was a chore...
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post #15 of 17
I had a pwm 6 and it sucked. The switches broke and then for an hour I'm on the floor, fine tooth comb, searching for the damn spring and parts... I had a helluva time getting it to control 2 35x's and 8 GT's.
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post #16 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post
I am contemplating the same idea. But I might like to use the Rheosmart PCI instead. That would be easier to incorporate it into a custom 5.25" front panel.

Problem is, I would like the controller to take care of my 4 or 8 rad fans and it looks like both the PCI and the 3 are underpowered for it. Also the PCI unit has no heatsink and it is only rated at 20W per channel while the 3 and 6 are rated 30W per channel.
Yeah, I would definitely go for one with heatsinks, and I wouldn't put more than 10 watts per channel on the 30 watt rated channels. The good news with PWM is you really don't need access to the panel. It could be buried in a case somewhere with good airflow and just set the buttons for PWM setting.

Construction quality is pretty cheap on these things (Knobs are flimsy and generally low quality), but as far as converting a PWM signal to analog voltage, it works with smaller loads. At the moment I'm only running two fans per channel or about 8 watts per channel and it does fine with that much. Considering the cost, the plastic cheap knobs etc, I can live with.
    
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post #17 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
I wouldn't put more than 10 watts per channel on the 30 watt rated channels.
Well I'm a bit confused here. The fans I'm looking at right now are these:

- GT 120mm x 25mm 1450rpm
- GT 120mm x 25mm 1850rpm

The 1450rpm one is rated at 0.049 amp (0.588 watt) with 0.210 starting amp (2,52 watts)
The 1850rpm one is rated at 0.083 amp (0.996 watt) with 0.360 starting amp (4.32 watts)
(source)

So when you say you would not exceed 10 watts per channel, are you talking about starting watts or rated watts?

Because if we are talking about running watts, that means I could control 17 of the 1450 fans or 10 of the 1850 fans with a single channel and still keep it under 10 watts.

BTW I should say that it is very difficult, if not impossible to find out the starting current from many of the fan manufacturers.
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