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[Car Audio] Made an Epic Mistake, Can I Save It?

post #1 of 62
Thread Starter 

Two years ago i picked up a pair of

, packaged neatly in their own box and included all the wires i needed to hook it up..

Now two years later and i found out that these things SUCK... after doing some research and a little math and such i have a couple quick questions if i can save this thing?

Now first off can this POS amp be bridged? or is there any way for me to get the full 600Watt RMS out to at least one of the subs?

and two, if i wire the subs in series can i reduce the resistance enough to get the full 600Watts from the bridged amp to both subs? or will all this just turn my trunk in to a ball of fire?


EDIT: Go Here (Post 24), Looking To replace, Don't Want Flaming Trunk....
Edited by h0thead132 - 5/31/11 at 1:41pm
post #2 of 62
i looked at your link and read the reviews.these subs have skinny centres thats where the coil is mounted speakers work on magnetics +or- poles move the sub back and forth the bigger the coil the more power it will have to overcome distortion providing it is getting enough power that amp looks like it would run very hot i didnt see anything like a fan built in.i would say after about 10 mins of pounding some tunes that amp would be 25-50% efficent,if you bridge itll be 2 ohms that takes the backbone out of your amp try to stay 4 ohms thats the best.they didnt give any specs with the website i know why/always remember big subs have big centres with big coils and sound waves are round not square or triangle so always get round subs.you could mount the amp on the roof so your car doesnt catch fire while the paint burns off the amp
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post #3 of 62
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by trailer park boy View Post
i looked at your link and read the reviews.these subs have skinny centres thats where the coil is mounted speakers work on magnetics +or- poles move the sub back and forth the bigger the coil the more power it will have to overcome distortion providing it is getting enough power that amp looks like it would run very hot i didnt see anything like a fan built in.i would say after about 10 mins of pounding some tunes that amp would be 25-50% efficent,if you bridge itll be 2 ohms that takes the backbone out of your amp try to stay 4 ohms thats the best.they didnt give any specs with the website i know why/always remember big subs have big centres with big coils and sound waves are round not square or triangle so always get round subs.you could mount the amp on the roof so your car doesnt catch fire while the paint burns off the amp
ummm....... What???

i don't even know where to start with this......

lets see, yes i do know how subs and speakers work, these are two four ohm subs and if i wire them correctly i can make them two ohm, as for the 4 ohm being the back bone.... W.T.F? the lower the resistance the less heat will be created therefore running more efficiently, and the heat thing..... wow, um yea, if i where to bridge this it would be working the same as it is now, instead of putting the 600Watt RMS to two channels (making it 300Watts RMS per Sub) it would be only on one channel, heat would not be an issue, even if it was it has overheat protection built in...

Sound waves are round..... ummm No.

sound is simply a vibration in the air, it does not matter what the shape of your subs are, it will all sound roughly the same, a square sub actually has more surface area than it's round counterparts therefore allowing it to move more air and send more vibrations and create louder lower tones.
post #4 of 62
Thread Starter 
24 hr, bumpage. any one?
post #5 of 62
Hey hothead, get my cell phone number from the place where you sent me this link. Shoot me a txt, or even a call and I'll help get you sorted bro.

~pio
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post #6 of 62
Wow to that above troll post.


Sound is round applies to other stuff. Such as 6 X 9s where the material is not synetrical and distort at different points. There's are a reason subs are round or square.
post #7 of 62
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
Hey hothead, get my cell phone number from the place where you sent me this link. Shoot me a txt, or even a call and I'll help get you sorted bro.

~pio
Will do dude, but most likely tomorrow cause it is really late here and i kinda want to go to bed lol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mako0312 View Post
Wow to that above troll post.


Sound is round applies to other stuff. Such as 6 X 9s where the material is not synetrical and distort at different points. There's are a reason subs are round or square.
lol, yea i had to read the post like four or five times to make sure i was not seeing things
post #8 of 62
From the link, it's difficult to find any info on the amp or the speakers. But since they're cheap, i'd say they're rated at 600w peak. Inexpensive two channel amps usually can be run at 2ohms per channel or 4ohms bridged. Trying to run the amp at 2ohms bridged would probably cause it to overheat and shut off within minutes or possibly blow some fuses.
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post #9 of 62
OP:

Please include in your post:
-Why you feel the subs and amp you have suck. Apparently, you were happy with them for two years and only then you decided to do some research and then decided they suck?
-How is everything wired up now?

The manual that came with the amp is probably going to be your best source of information. Before you can decide if you can bridge the amp and wire the speakers parallel to try and get more power from the amp you need to know what the amp is stable to (cheap amps will only be stable to 4ohm. If you're lucky the amp can handle a 2ohm load). Then you need to know the rating of your subs. Most likely you have 2 4ohm subs which will give you a 2ohm load when your amp is bridged... this may be too low for your amp.
*I have seen cheap kits come with odd drivers to get the 'most' from an amp. If this is one of those cases and your subs have 2ohm voice coils then running them stereo from the amp is probably your best bet (for SQ as well... stereo subs kick arse! Not as much output, but more definition... IMHO) If you have 2 2ohm subs you would have to wire them in series to give your amp a 4ohm load and then by bridging your amp you would likely not be getting any more power to the subs.
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post #10 of 62
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by soloz2 View Post
OP:

Please include in your post:
-Why you feel the subs and amp you have suck. Apparently, you were happy with them for two years and only then you decided to do some research and then decided they suck?
-How is everything wired up now?

The manual that came with the amp is probably going to be your best source of information. Before you can decide if you can bridge the amp and wire the speakers parallel to try and get more power from the amp you need to know what the amp is stable to (cheap amps will only be stable to 4ohm. If you're lucky the amp can handle a 2ohm load). Then you need to know the rating of your subs. Most likely you have 2 4ohm subs which will give you a 2ohm load when your amp is bridged... this may be too low for your amp.
*I have seen cheap kits come with odd drivers to get the 'most' from an amp. If this is one of those cases and your subs have 2ohm voice coils then running them stereo from the amp is probably your best bet (for SQ as well... stereo subs kick arse! Not as much output, but more definition... IMHO) If you have 2 2ohm subs you would have to wire them in series to give your amp a 4ohm load and then by bridging your amp you would likely not be getting any more power to the subs.
these are my first subs ever and my first attempt at custom car stereo, from talking to people around this site (mainly Pio lol) i found that i got really ripped off and there are millions of better options out there for the amount i payed

the reason I know these things suck is that around 45hz they just stop, they wont play anything lower, i have looked and the crossover is set to 32hz (the lowest setting)

the main reason i was wondering this is i am hoping to find a job (witch is proving difficult) and hopefully get a full range from my stereo, i don't know if i need to get better 5.25" speakers inside or better subs to cover the short comings of the speakers.

i kept looking around at all these amps that all say that they are bridgeable and it doubles the output of them (according to the specs on the websites) i also know from the laws of resistance i can lower the ohmage of the speakers in total by rewiring them

as of now they are wired up simply, positive left to positive left, negative left to negative left and so on

written on the back of the subs (on the magnet) is their power handling and ohmage, they are 1200Watt Max, 600Watt RMS and 4 ohm

what sucks is the only paper work that came with these things was a small diagram on how to hook up the amp to the box and the car, that was it, i have no idea what this amp is. from what it says on it and on the box it is 1200Watt max (when lightning strikes it) and i assume 600Watt RMS.

to me that screams that it is a total of 600Watts RMS on both channels therefor it is only 300Watts RMS going to the subs when they are both wired up.
Edited by h0thead132 - 5/29/11 at 10:51am
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