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Project: NUB TUB! My First Build and Watercooling - Page 3

post #21 of 40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blostorm View Post
You should use the provided clamps.
um yeah... about that... I wanted to... but I accidentally got it all on, and started my leak test when I realized I left them off... then I started to think about how I could get them on there.. and there is only one option. BUT, i literally CANNOT pull them off the barbs, every time I had to remove a piece of tubing I had to cut it off...

Do you think it they will be tight enough?
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post #22 of 40
I use the same kit and was able to clamps temps even after all the installation. You gotta putt em on your tubing like in the center and slide them to the barbs.
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post #23 of 40
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blostorm View Post
I use the same kit and was able to clamps temps even after all the installation. You gotta putt em on your tubing like in the center and slide them to the barbs.
Thank you. I pulled out the clamps and looked at them again, I thought they were connected, like a loop, so I would have to slide them on. They are not. So I will be using them.

Thank you for pointing that out
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post #24 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elmateo487 View Post
Thank you. I pulled out the clamps and looked at them again, I thought they were connected, like a loop, so I would have to slide them on. They are not. So I will be using them.

Thank you for pointing that out
No problem. Feel free to PM for more help about your build.
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post #25 of 40
Glad you got it working It is mysterious sometimes why one thing or another doesn't work, and in those cases "when in doubt, reinstall" is a good rule to follow.

Anyway, you're totally hitting a home run on your very first build! I've been assembling my own computers for about 15 years but I'm only gearing up to watercool for the first time, so I'm a bit jealous

Glad to read that you're putting the clamps on your tubing too... no matter how snug it might feel now, without them you run a terrible risk that it will slowly wiggle loose and then spew water all over everything, which would not be a good thing.
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post #26 of 40
What kind of camera are you using?

The pictures look weird. Almost photoshopped.
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post #27 of 40
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by threephi View Post
Glad you got it working It is mysterious sometimes why one thing or another doesn't work, and in those cases "when in doubt, reinstall" is a good rule to follow.

Anyway, you're totally hitting a home run on your very first build! I've been assembling my own computers for about 15 years but I'm only gearing up to watercool for the first time, so I'm a bit jealous

Glad to read that you're putting the clamps on your tubing too... no matter how snug it might feel now, without them you run a terrible risk that it will slowly wiggle loose and then spew water all over everything, which would not be a good thing.
Thank you I am honored, and maybe a little stupid also. Hahaha Yeah... clamps go on... now that I know they can be put on... It feels like I am just WAITING for the water to start SHOOTING out of my tubes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by homestyle View Post
What kind of camera are you using?

The pictures look weird. Almost photoshopped.
Yeah. Haha. I am using a Canon 40D, so a DSLR, and I had my super wide aperture lens on it and didn't feel like switching to my wide angle. It is a 50mm 1.8, so I had to stand pretty far back, which is why in the first picture on the first page the computer looks so small

So anyways, the wide aperture means that only a little bit of the picture is in focus, while the rest is out of focus. Made for an interesting look. But yeah, no photoshop, just a little saturation boost because the flash washed it all out. All in all my colors are way wack. But whatever.

A good example of the aperture, being photos 6 and 7 on page 2. Graphics cards in focus and out.
Edited by Elmateo487 - 5/27/11 at 8:29pm
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post #28 of 40
Thread Starter 
UPDATE: and NEWTONS LAW OF COOLING



SO... while going over my build and trying to optimize airflow... I noticed that absolutely ZERO air was coming out of the back of my graphics cards. Although.. they were not overheating, and fan speeds were normal.

I first figured that since they are non reference coolers and have dual fans blowing, that maybe a lot of the exhaust was being put into the case. Which is fine, as long as the cards are kept cool. (since the CPU is water cooled, exhaust wouldn't matter, or just slightly)

But that didn't explain why literally NO exhaust was coming out the back... since my old 5870 in my Mac Pro was a leaf blower out the back.

Well... Turns out that fans blow towards what would be the BACK of the fan, or so how my mind made it make sense... I had the graphics card air duct fan in the middle backwards, and it was sucking all of the air from the graphics cards directly into my hard drives... LOL

SO, I did a quick sketch to show both the problem and how beautifully I made sure the other fans were facing their respective ways

Basically, its like if you took your air conditioning in your car, hooked it up to your heater, and your heater to the AC....
Edited by Elmateo487 - 5/28/11 at 12:04pm
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post #29 of 40
Absolutely awesome drawings

You definitely want to either not use that fan bracket thing from the HAF-X (I didn't bother installing it at at all), or set it sucking air from the front towards the back, and then that 140mm fan exhausting out like you've got it.

If you do go watercooling on your graphics down the road, you can do what I did with the 140mm fan and turn it blowing in, so that your radiators get cool air intake right under them, instead of only sucking in air from the side fan and front fan.

The beauty of the HAF-X case is that whatever you're doing, it's going to get high air flow (HAF), so even with that fan blowing onto your HDDs, they're still getting cool air directly from the front and your graphics cards are getting cool air from the side fan.

One of the things that I liked and hated about stock cooling on video cards is the internal intake and external exhaust. It's a curse in that it gets loud because it requires smaller, faster fans, but I like that it takes the warm air from inside the case and exhausts it with it's own heated exhaust air. I don't get why aftermarket video card coolers just recirculate hot air in the computer case. For a HAF case, it ends up working out fine, but if you had a crappy beige box, I don't think it's a good long-term strategy.

For the hose clamps, regardless of which clamps you get, I have yet to see ones that cannot be opened entirely, though it may be impossible/difficult to do that with the self-bending ones, but I use worm drive, and I believe the XSPC kit comes with plastic locking clamps which can be separated (sometimes with difficulty).

And yes, shooting with a 50mm 1.8 is tough when shooting a computer... I had to end up borrowing someone's super wide angle lens to be able to take a shot from within 4 feet. Fortunately my 50mm 1.8 is actually a 35mm 1.8, but with the magnification of my digital frame sized sensor, it works out to 50mm full frame
post #30 of 40
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.GumbyM.D. View Post
Absolutely awesome drawings

You definitely want to either not use that fan bracket thing from the HAF-X (I didn't bother installing it at at all), or set it sucking air from the front towards the back, and then that 140mm fan exhausting out like you've got it.

If you do go watercooling on your graphics down the road, you can do what I did with the 140mm fan and turn it blowing in, so that your radiators get cool air intake right under them, instead of only sucking in air from the side fan and front fan.

The beauty of the HAF-X case is that whatever you're doing, it's going to get high air flow (HAF), so even with that fan blowing onto your HDDs, they're still getting cool air directly from the front and your graphics cards are getting cool air from the side fan.

One of the things that I liked and hated about stock cooling on video cards is the internal intake and external exhaust. It's a curse in that it gets loud because it requires smaller, faster fans, but I like that it takes the warm air from inside the case and exhausts it with it's own heated exhaust air. I don't get why aftermarket video card coolers just recirculate hot air in the computer case. For a HAF case, it ends up working out fine, but if you had a crappy beige box, I don't think it's a good long-term strategy.

For the hose clamps, regardless of which clamps you get, I have yet to see ones that cannot be opened entirely, though it may be impossible/difficult to do that with the self-bending ones, but I use worm drive, and I believe the XSPC kit comes with plastic locking clamps which can be separated (sometimes with difficulty).

And yes, shooting with a 50mm 1.8 is tough when shooting a computer... I had to end up borrowing someone's super wide angle lens to be able to take a shot from within 4 feet. Fortunately my 50mm 1.8 is actually a 35mm 1.8, but with the magnification of my digital frame sized sensor, it works out to 50mm full frame
Dunno why, But i feel fairly confident that the fan bracket does something. It is adding a 120mm to pull fresh air from the 200mm up front pulling air. So, i think ill leave it, at least until I put the vgas under water.

I got these cards because I knew they would be more quiet with two larger fans on each. And I knew exactly what you said about the HAF X, that all exhaust into the case would be quickly expelled. And I think so far it is doing its job? Furmark still gets both cards up the 85s or so with stock fan speeds. I didn't check to see if they were auto ramped up to 100%

But overall I am running things like Metro 2033 maxed with fans around 40-50 percent! So not bad.

And yeah... picture my 50mm... but since its on the same DSLR sensor like yours... its an 80mm. Trying to take pictures of my computer. LOL
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Nub Tub
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