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Opinions needed Bitspower rotary "snake" fittings

post #1 of 5
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I'm fairly new to the water cooling community. I'm on revision 1.3 of my build. I will be re-doing my loop this weekend and would like some input on the Bitspower Rotary fittings (90 degree "snake" style).

I used these on revision 1.2 of my build for a bitspower gpu block, and they presented no problem. However, I'm more concerned more now than ever, as I had a leak when trying to rebuild my loop, since I was trying to put in a new GTX 570. The leak occurred on an Apogee GTZ, using 1/2" BP compression fitting. Turns out I stripped the acrylic on the CPU block, it wasn't even a problem with the stock o-ring on the compression fitting.

Given the rotaries have not failed. It was a scary sight, seeing a quarter size plot of water resting on the back of my video card. I noticed it when filling the loop so thankfully no power was being fed to the system. Needless to say, after reading mulitple threads about leaks with compression fittings and rotary adapters, I'm hesitant to put these back in my system.

I've spent plenty of money on the compression/rotary fittings and would hate not to use them. I've used them without a problem and I know the leak was not a cause of them, but of me over-tightening the fitting on the block. Again I'm just leary, I've got over $1000 worth of components and I don't want to see them ruined.

So.... any opinions are greatly appreciated...

Looking at going with the following:

-HK v 3.0 (i7) with 90 degree rotaries/ 1/2" compression on top of that. (there is no way to get around not using the rotaries on this block if using compression fittings)
-EK-FC970 with compressions mounted on top.
-RX360 rad with compressions
-Res - BP barbs w/ Koolance spring clamps
-Pump - BP barbs/ 1 BP 90 degree fixed adapter W/ Koolance spring clamps

I already have all above...

But I'm thinking about Straight up Barbs on everything and purchasing the Lamptron Elite Clamps.

Looks are definitely a factor, But this thing has gotta be secure, and I really want some piece of mind. Especially on the 90 degree rotary fittings for the HK block.

Sorry for the long 1st post and thanks a head of time!
    
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post #2 of 5
I've used the rotary "snake" fittings in the past and never had any problems. I think the biggest enemy to water cooling is when folks overtighten their fittings. You can compress the o ring to where it no longer provides a seal (done that), you can strip out the threads on a softer piece of metal or plastic/acrylic (done that), or you can even pinch tubing so hard that it cuts the tube at the compression collar creating a leak. (Yep, even done that.)

I honestly have learned to be really gentle when tightening my fittings and if I need to change the position of a compression rotary, I take my time with it. It's a rubber ring inside, so I can imagine that applying too much torque to it could easily shear it or cause it to unseat. Bitspower did have an issue awhile back, but from what I understand it has been resolved. (I am using 2 snakes right now that were purchased in December of '10)

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post #3 of 5
You're fine using BP rotaries, they are fantastic.
I've had over 40 various in my first few revisions (that includes 7 or 8 snake 90's) and none failed.

I screw them in fairly tight - pretty much to ~ 90% of as hard as I can using fingers - but that's with acetal and metal, I guess with acrylic you have to be more careful. Same goes with compression ring on tubing.
    
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post #4 of 5
I avoid rotaries and large compression fittings when possible. With good practices they can work just fine, but they do require more care.

On rotaries, you want to avoid bending or lateral type loads on the fitting. The tubing should be fairly straight and cut such that there is very little force to try and bend the fitting. When side loads are applied the o-ring inside can compress on one side enough that the other side looses contact.

I like smaller compression fittings, but larger ones I've had leak on me too. You need to cut the tubing very square and use soft tubing. I would also suggest being careful that you snug the base on really good and hand tighting the retaining ring as much as possible. Finally don't wiggle the tubing too much after install. I can generally walk tubing out of a compression with enough wiggling and pulling and I think that's where I got in trouble before. It will walk out of position very slightly, but being hidden you don't know any better. When the water warms up and softens the tubing even more, that's when I've had my leaks.

Smaller tubing compression I find work really good, it's just the large 3/4" OD types I've had trouble with.

Nothing beat the security of a standard barb and worm drive clamp though, that's what I use for any 3/4" OD tubing.
    
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post #5 of 5
Of course I completely agree with Martin that generally it's better to use tubing and no rotaries - better flow and less chances of something going wrong - but if you want to do it - no problems if you're careful as he described.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
Smaller tubing compression I find work really good, it's just the large 3/4" OD types I've had trouble with.
Perhaps all depends on the fitting/tubing brand.

I've had (unintentionally) very interesting experiment with my BP compression, few rotaries and 3/4"OD tubing.

While moving my case (~40kg) from the room to the workbench (~30m), I forgot to put back front 2 screws which connects the top (with rad) with the rest of the case.

So while holding the case by the top, it was connected to the rest with just 2 screws in the back - and a connection from the top radiator to the front radiator - this consisted of 3x BP straight compressions, 1 dual BP 45 rotary and 1 BP 45 compression (I have flow sensor between the rads)
Amazingly - none of the the connection gave way/leaked.

I was really shocked - and I was holding the case by the top/front part so a little bit more weight was actually on the connection rather than back screws
    
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