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New to watercooling, looking for help

post #1 of 28
Thread Starter 
I am looking to get into watercooling for a few reasons, I figure its inevitable that I will do it eventually and I like my gtx 295 but it just gets too hot. The person that sold me the gtx 295 has been kind enough to send me his spare waterblock for just the cost of shipping so thats about $15, I have found a MCP 350 pump for $35, and someone is selling a black ice gtx 240 radiator for $55(I could only fit a 240 rad at this time), and a reservoir pump top for the pump would be $40 shipped. However, I don't know what to do for tubing, size, quantity have me confused as well as what to do for fittings. I would like to keep this low budget so I wasn't really thinking of compression fittings, would it be best to do 1/2" barbs with tubing that is 3/8" ID and 1/2" OD? Please note that I am not interested in putting my CPU under water as that has no heat issues with the hyper 212+.
post #2 of 28
Tubing - They have different colors, will probably need about 7 feet to be safe.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/82..._-_UV_Red.html

Barbs fittings - They should be sending you the fittings for your Pump so you will need 2 for your gpu block, 2 for your rad, and 1 for your res top.
http://www.svc.com/fit-b102.html

Clamps-Should need 8.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/50...k_-_58_OD.html
Edited by UsedPaperclip - 5/27/11 at 2:59pm
post #3 of 28
Fittings get G1/4 X 1/2 inch, try to get ones that have whats called a captive o-ring
like Bits power or EK, others are also set up this way

Tubing I run 7/16 inch i.d. tubing on a 1/2 inch fitting for the best seal

Tygon has a rep. for being the best tubing
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post #4 of 28
Comp fittings are very nice, and id go with 1/2" ID(or 7/16") tubing with 3/4" OD. As far as tubing length, you just have to make a good estimate then add 5 feet to be safe.
post #5 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timlander View Post
Comp fittings are very nice, and id go with 1/2" ID(or 7/16") tubing with 3/4" OD. As far as tubing length, you just have to make a good estimate then add 5 feet to be safe.
Umm no on the tubing. OP you would be fine with 5 feet on its own. Tubing size really doesn't matter. Just make sure to match the ID of the tubing with the barbs. So if you go with 3/8 ID tubing go with 3/8 barbs. Those clamps previously suggested are the biggest pain and I personally hate taking them off. If you are going to be using barbs as opposed to compression fittings I would just go with zip ties (tighten them with pliers) or just get some worm clamps from Lowes. If you want to go a little more expensive go with compression fittings. These do not need clamps and look beautiful but are way more expensive at a bout $4-$5 per fitting.
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post #6 of 28
Thread Starter 
Getting some different answers here, if I buy the used radiator I am planning on getting it will come with 1/2" barbs already on it, so that means that I should only need 3 fittings and that I will need tubing that is 3/8" or 7/16" ID. Which of these is better? Also is tygon the best tubing or is primochill? I kind of like the colored tubing but if it would decrease the chances of damaging components I would rather go tygon.
post #7 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by the.FBI View Post
Getting some different answers here, if I buy the used radiator I am planning on getting it will come with 1/2" barbs already on it, so that means that I should only need 3 fittings and that I will need tubing that is 3/8" or 7/16" ID. Which of these is better? Also is tygon the best tubing or is primochill? I kind of like the colored tubing but if it would decrease the chances of damaging components I would rather go tygon.
tygon has a good reputation but IMO it doesn't really matter all that much since you'll only be running distilled water with either PT-Nuke or a kill coil. Since the radiator is coming with 1/2" barbs you can go with two sizes of tubing. You can get the 7/16" ID tubing or 1/2" ID tubing. With 7/16" you don't even need a clamp. In order to get the tubing on you're going to have to soak the tube end in hot water just to get it on. If you go with 1/2" ID tubing it will be MUCH easier to get on but you will need some clamps or go with compression fittings.
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post #8 of 28
for 1/2 inch barbs you would need ether 7/16 i.d. tubing or 1/2 inch

I run 7/16 on 1/2 inch barbs with out clamps, I use zip ties and I have never had a coolant leak

If you get the 7/16 i.d. tubing you will need to sock the tubing ends in boiled water
to soften the tubing, it makes it slide on to the 1/2 barbs much easier
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post #9 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VW_TDI_02 View Post
tygon has a good reputation but IMO it doesn't really matter all that much since you'll only be running distilled water with either PT-Nuke or a kill coil. Since the radiator is coming with 1/2" barbs you can go with two sizes of tubing. You can get the 7/16" ID tubing or 1/2" ID tubing. With 7/16" you don't even need a clamp. In order to get the tubing on you're going to have to soak the tube end in hot water just to get it on. If you go with 1/2" ID tubing it will be MUCH easier to get on but you will need some clamps or go with compression fittings.
Alright, I'll probably go with the 7/16" ID tubing and just use some zip ties for extra protection. I'll also probably grab 5 feet of primochill red tubing and 3 EK high flow 1/2" barb fittings.
post #10 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by the.FBI View Post
Alright, I'll probably go with the 7/16" ID tubing and just use some zip ties for extra protection. I'll also probably grab 5 feet of primochill red tubing and 3 EK high flow 1/2" barb fittings.
Sounds good. You should also look into compression fittings if you can afford them. I'm slowly switching to all compression fittings.
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