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post #31 of 68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolhandluke41 View Post
most if not all 1366 MB's have back plate/Q Shield ,there for you suppose to use standoffs ,i'm not familiar with this (EK) bracket but i would avoid direct contact metal to metal on the back of the mobo,if you apply few strips of electrical tape to separate both you should be fine
I did use plastic spacers lol. That is what your supposed to use instead of the rubber according to the instructions, but it still doesn't clear the "Q shield". I will probably loosen up the block and try and slide it back some and put electrical tape over it without a full removal, or wait for EK to answer my ticket. Thanks.
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post #32 of 68
when i say use EPDM rubber as for cutting out the contour of the back plate and using it, instead of standoffs if that would give you more clearance and not the top of the back plate ,small washers on top of standoffs would work also
good luck
Edited by coolhandluke41 - 6/14/11 at 7:28pm
    
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post #33 of 68
here ,this can answer some of your questions...."EK’s old mounting system is primitive, cheap, and just not easy to use. It’s fundamentally the same installation for all sockets, with the only a change in spacers/insulator between the backplate and the back of the board."
http://skinneelabs.com/supreme-hf-ni-review/3/

EK have history of of blocks/backplates shorting out like there is no tomorrow ,every time they come up with new block/backplate they tend to forget to include something in the package to prevent that from happening ..most of the time not enough washers or complete lack of washers lol
Edited by coolhandluke41 - 6/14/11 at 7:55pm
    
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post #34 of 68
Thread Starter 
Hmm, might not have bought EK. I read all good things for several months. Then when I went to buy I saw nickel flaking so I bought just plain copper blocks. Now this back plate issue. Thinking I should have went with another brand whether or not these work well, but out of principle that companies shouldn't sell bad products. Oh well, too late now.
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post #35 of 68
Thread Starter 
Here is a few images after taking the block off and fighting with the tubes to set it elsewhere while I changed the backplate. I basically left the standoffs but added the rubber thing between the backplate and standoffs so that it doesn't stress the corners so much. It kinda fits but at the corners the rubber is slightly movable, yet held in by the giant bolts. This isn't a perfect fit, but makes me feel safer as no metal to metal contact is going on.



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post #36 of 68
I have two i7-930's on water and a 955 that just came off water. My comments are to avoid dual radiators as you are making more places for leaks to happen. You may say "well I need the cooling capacity" and you certainly do but solve it with a better way of mounting a super efficient 360 rad (like the Black Ice).Design your loop with gravity in mind. What I mean is be sure you have real good gravity feed into your pump out of a res. (yes I say use a res.) and make sure your loop is easy to fill,easy to drain,and easy to bleed. Develope a procedure for loop disassembly and note where water can leak durning loop disassembly and get on parts you do not like getting wet. At times it is very hard to make a loop look super good while maintaining the parameters I have listed.Just some things I have learned that I keep in mind with my loops. Your loop will be an expression of how well you can organize and just what priorites you have (looking good over function).
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post #37 of 68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCCstudent View Post
I have two i7-930's on water and a 955 that just came off water. My comments are to avoid dual radiators as you are making more places for leaks to happen. You may say "well I need the cooling capacity" and you certainly do but solve it with a better way of mounting a super efficient 360 rad (like the Black Ice).Design your loop with gravity in mind. What I mean is be sure you have real good gravity feed into your pump out of a res. (yes I say use a res.) and make sure your loop is easy to fill,easy to drain,and easy to bleed. Develope a procedure for loop disassembly and note where water can leak durning loop disassembly and get on parts you do not like getting wet. At times it is very hard to make a loop look super good while maintaining the parameters I have listed.Just some things I have learned that I keep in mind with my loops. Your loop will be an expression of how well you can organize and just what priorites you have (looking good over function).
One of the reasons I went with a dual rad is I can't put a rad anywhere in the top of my case as heat blows right out the top then. I am putting this in a cabinet and I need heat going out the back. I have a hole cut out perfectly for the computer to breath and a little bit more so the cabinet stays cool, but it can't handle 3 fans dumping hot rad air into the cabinet effectively. Before you say don't put it in a cabinet, I use that as a form of noise blocking and keeps clumsy drunk kids from spilling **** on it or kicking it when they come over. I chose how I did the loop to meet my specific needs. Only advice I really needed was what parts to go with for my requirements.

I also have a res, not sure why you said I need to use one as I have one mounted above the pump as others have told me. It sits above the PSU and is the clear swiftech microres.
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post #38 of 68
@OP looks good ,i thought that robber is thicker but that's ok, you should be fine and have decent block contact ,don't worry about the corners as this 1/8 bracket is resting on top of the backplate ,small washers on top of standoffs is something you might consider

@PCCstudent..he will be fine with what he have (don't see where you going to install 360 in that case ),BTW he does have micro res. ,the only thing i would do is flip the small RAD so the inlet/outlet is on top ~easier to bleed,the gravity only works where there is no flow,you can have the res and pump on very bottom of the case as long as water level is just a natch above the pump
Edited by coolhandluke41 - 6/14/11 at 9:10pm
    
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post #39 of 68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolhandluke41 View Post
@OP looks good ,i thought that robber is thicker but that's ok, you should be fine and have decent block contact ,don't worry about the corners as this 1/8 bracket is resting on top of the backplate ,small washers on top of standoffs is something you might consider

@PCCstudent..he will be fine with what he have (don't see where you going to install 360 in that case ),BTW he does have micro res. ,the only thing i would do is flip the small RAD so the inlet/outlet is on top ~easier to bleed,the gravity only works where there is no flow,you can have the res and pump on very bottom of the case as long as water level is just a natch above the pump
I was actually going to put the top rad flipped like you said, but the part that sticks up from the rad won't fit. It hits the top of my case when mounted to the fan brackets unfortunately.

Right now I am super super excited. I have been pouring water in it and turning it off and on as the res gets to the pumps lead pipe. The thing is dead silent almost. 90% of the noise is like fish tank sounds of water bubbling around through things. Best of all, 10 mins running now and its drained bairly any more water out of the res, and it hasn't even got any of my paper towels wet.

Ever so often so spurts come from it and bubbles flow out of the 240 rad and through the system to the rad. This thing is sick haha. I can put my finger on the metal next to the pump and have to double check to even detect a vibration. My friend is over checking it out and he can't even hear it.
Edited by Strobe - 6/14/11 at 9:20pm
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post #40 of 68
I think I like what you did with the rubber. I would feel allot safer that way. Did you ever hear back from EK?
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