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post #41 of 68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brittain View Post
I think I like what you did with the rubber. I would feel allot safer that way. Did you ever hear back from EK?
I did not. I looked back at the ticket and my message I sent several hours ago said like 1220AM or something. They are several hours ahead of us so they will probably be sending one soon as I am going to bed. I think its like 6 hours ahead or something.

This thing is going to take a while to bleed I think. When I let it sit for like 10mins running then tilt it around and shake it, it goes crazy and the res drains a noticeable amount as bubbles fly out. Still haven't seen much come from the single 120 rad. Probably because of how I mounted it :/. I would have liked to mount it the other way if only I had some room.

Going to let it run for 7 hours or so while I get some shut eye. Worn out and fingers are tired from all the tightening and fiddling with everything in preparation for all of this. I will post back tomorrow at some point when I hear what EK says.

If things are still leak free late tomorrow night, do you guys think it would be safe to use the computer?
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post #42 of 68
I'm so anal about the noise i separated the pump from res (plug/extra hole)..so much for 130$ res..lol

    
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post #43 of 68
did the mobo mount with the rubber and backplate on? is it touching the case if so could you short out the cpu as it would technically have contact with the case grounding?
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post #44 of 68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolhandluke41 View Post
I'm so anal about the noise i separated the pump from res (plug/extra hole)..so much for 130$ res..lol
That res looks pretty sweet. Btw, I didn't think anyone on ocn was noise conscious lmao. Most people tell me AP-15 GT's are silent yet my 14's past half are loud to me. Think my noctua's might be still quieter, but as everyone states, they suck as rad fans so I bought some GT's.

Here is a few pics while I'm sitting here watching to make sure everything is going smooth before I go to bed.





I have hardly any bubbles left in the tubing, but still getting some occasional bubbling sounds that are super faint, not like spurts and gulps of water anymore. All the micro bubbles have found their way to the res it seems. Pulling the plug puts a bunch of bubbles in between my res and pump in that tube. So there is still much left to do.

I also still got some GT's to add in pull on the 240 rad since I have some room there and the fans sitting on my desk. I wanted a push fan for the top 120 rad, but there is no room and it hits the barb of the CPU block. Lamez. lol
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post #45 of 68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drnilly007 View Post
did the mobo mount with the rubber and backplate on? is it touching the case if so could you short out the cpu as it would technically have contact with the case grounding?
Yea, I had a few pics somewhere a few posts ago where I had the rubber inside the backplate. It seems to fit fine contrary to posts I have read where the rubber doesn't fit at all. It seems to be nice a snug. So no more worries about shorting anything. Just need to let this thing bleed out for a bit.
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post #46 of 68
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EK replied to me:
"yes, this is normal. This is the LGA-1366 integrated latch mechanism (ILM) backplate, a part of the CPU socket. Use metal backplate together with enclosed 2.5mm POM standoffs only as per instructions."

I still am going to keep the rubber I have in there. I sent them pics just like I posted with the metal back plate touching the metal on my motherboard and apparently that is "normal". Since the rubber pad installed alright I will try running it with the rubber pad for now unless there is a temperature issue.
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post #47 of 68
My feeling is that not every computer case on the market is a candidate for water cooling. I have seen big blocks Chevrolet engines stuffed in AMC Gremlins but it looked like it really did not belong there.
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post #48 of 68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCCstudent View Post
My feeling is that not every computer case on the market is a candidate for water cooling. I have seen big blocks Chevrolet engines stuffed in AMC Gremlins but it looked like it really did not belong there.
Not sure how it doesn't belong there. The 240 rad isn't even strapped in. Was nearly a perfect fit as I had to wiggle it back and forth for 2-3 minutes to slide it in on top of the bottom 3.5" racks mount point that I left. Only has a slight angle to dodge a nut or something that was hanging down from the 5.25" bays, but I ended up using that as a nut to lean on so it can't fall out too. I have shaken the case around and it doesn't budge, although I will most likely use some zip ties or something to make sure its in there for good. The only thing I really didn't like was that I couldn't mount the 120rad correctly with the barbs at the top. It barely clears the top panel as is.

Not putting my old HDD in either as I now have a 160GB intel SSD for my bigger applications and still have the 128GB C300 for OS and more speed sensitive applications. That is why I bought this case to take out the 3.5" rack and just throw the SSD's up top in the 5.25" bay.
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post #49 of 68
I do not know the order of your purchases but from looking at what you wanted to cool it was clear that some type of 360 rad. was going to be required. I think you should have only put cases on your consideration list that could take a 360. My feeling is the addition of a 120 rad. is something to be done when you are just too far into a build to back out and you want to salvage the situation.
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post #50 of 68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCCstudent View Post
I do not know the order of your purchases but from looking at what you wanted to cool it was clear that some type of 360 rad. was going to be required. I think you should have only put cases on your consideration list that could take a 360. My feeling is the addition of a 120 rad. is something to be done when you are just too far into a build to back out and you want to salvage the situation.
Eh, I am no expert, but have seen it done before many times. Besides my temps are insane now compared to before.

Keep in mind this is in a cabinet so the ambient are higher than my room. My room before it gets hot is around 23C and no idea when the sun is coming in my window, but it gets very warm. Also, the paste used was MX-4 and was spread super thin on both CPU and GPU.

Noctua U12P
CPU idle (10mins): 48
CPU load (30mins prime low fan): 78
CPU load (30mins prime high fan): 71

EK Supreme HF
CPU idle (10mins): 36
CPU load (30mins prime low fan on rads): 57
CPU load (30mins prime high fan on rads): 55

Overall, really happy to see the drop. I know it won't compare to people with obvisouly larger cases, louder pumps, fans, etc. These were all taken at stock clocks and the stock 1.2V from auto.

For the GTX 580 reference card

Reference
GPU idle (10mins at low power phase/clocks): 46
GPU load (30mins of 99% load from Nvidia demos): 84

EK block copper/acetal
GPU idle (10 mins again): 29
GPU load (30mins of 99% load from Nvidia demos): 50
GPU load (30mins of 99% again, high fans): 49-50

The reason I used nvidia demos is because they got the highest temps even over furmark. I think furmark must be throttling or something because I can't get it to raise the temps worth crap. Always hit around 65-70 on air and wouldn't go higher.

Now I will say the temps will probably go higher in a longer stress run as they were at peaks and the load curve on water was WAAAY slower. I guess it takes a lot longer for those rads heat up compared to an air block.

One thing I noticed is my fan speeds seemed to have a marginal effect yet the noise levels were considerably different. The AP-14's at full speed (only 3 as pictured since I haven't added the pulls to the 240) are fairly quiet alone, but like resonate together. It's as if each one is running a slightly different speed and it makes an awful sound signature. The noctuas were similar volume alone, and sounded better at full speed when all together as they didn't resonate between each other.

EDIT: Also forgot to note that I am thoroughly displeased with EK's mounting system for the CPU block. The directions contradict each other completely from my manual to the updated pdf online. Some of the hardware in my bag didn't match either manual and I was missing some things from each too. It's as if mine was a different version. I also had to remount it several times due to issues I kept finding where it was slightly crooked, or bulged on a side, etc. The GPU block though I can't say anything against it. Install was VERY straight forward with a single attempt.
Edited by Strobe - 6/16/11 at 6:32am
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