i would recomend the xspc rad but the ek one is fine also if you can afford the cost and room push pull will be a huge benafit
Thanks onions. I think buy the better rad, because, Ill end up regretting it if I dont, I can only afford the 3 GT Fans I don't wanna spend 80 on fans really! I have the antecs in the front ATM so ill use the GTs to pull if that sounds goods?
p.s. im dyslexic too WIN!
also, do i need anything at the high point between the RAD and CPU to bleed the air out, air bubbles is one of my top worries
dont know if it would work out cheaper getting the xspc rasa rx360 cpu kit and gfx cooler and fans seperatly would of thought rx360 would cool cpu and 1 gpu
dont know if it would work out cheaper getting the xspc rasa rx360 cpu kit and gfx cooler and fans seperatly would of thought rx360 would cool cpu and 1 gpu
not sure on a kit because I want a powerful pump and I would have the bay space as putting the 360 in the front.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nametagg
Are you looking at a thick rad or thin one?
The thick one now xD
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheReaperWaits
Link to XSPC RAD? I don't see why it would be £50 more?
Did you check to see if you have enough barbs? What about jubilee clips? Or are you getting compression fittings?
You don't need anything extra to bleed the air out as the reservoir will do that for you. While bleeding you will have to keep shutting the loop off and adding water, but after a while the air bubbles should all be gone. I always gently rock my case back and forth to speed the process.
People always say don't get the dyes and I tend to agree with them, I picked up some deionized water from 'Chavfords' add a kill-coil and you should be good.
Though I have used the Thermochill stuff and had no problems with gunk on the block or the dye separating...
As to bleeding air the method above works well, though I tend to leave my RAD unscrewed to the case and give that a good shake, as that is where most of the air gets trapped.
Also to add, you ideally want your RES to be the highest point going to your pump.
People always say don't get the dyes and I tend to agree with them, I picked up some deionized water from 'Chavfords' add a kill-coil and you should be good.
Though I have used the Thermochill stuff and had no problems with gunk on the block or the dye separating...
As to bleeding air the method above works well, though I tend to leave my RAD unscrewed to the case and give that a good shake, as that is where most of the air gets trapped.
Also to add, you ideally want your RES to be the highest point going to your pump.
If the difference is SO big, I wouldn't pay the plus (well I chose the EK over the RX because of this... It was almost twice as expensive).
The difference is there, but not big enough to justify double the price.
IIRC, the RX beats the EK in a 15% or so. Considering that the rad is already overkill for your system, that difference will be probably a degree or two.
You can use that extra money to get a better block for the CPU, that will be much more noticeable than a slightly better rad.
Ditch the LTX and get the Supreme HF. It will be a nice boost.
If you have the extra money, the rx 360 does have the absolute best performance.
Not by a large margin, at any fan speed level. Both that and the EK rad are made by Magicool anyway and have near-identical designs, so it comes down to price.
i brought a rs360 kit from the xspc website cost like £140 i itnhk but it came with everything even down to fan grills, and i have my 360rad running out the back of the case and externally mounted to take heat out of the case and then case temp is lower and then my block temps are cooler
I got the kit, and definitely must say I like it. While the pump doesn't perform as well as the MCP655, it does provide comparable results. See: http://www.pureoverclock.com/review.php?id=889&page=6 and click over to page 7.
Other then that, it's a quite solid kit. While I haven't installed it yet, I've done a dry run (pardon the pun) loop, and am waiting on a pair of GPU blocks before I finish it.
Thanks for the heads up I would have need piched when that arrived with no back plate., Im going to order the easy install ek block with paste and backplate.
Thanks for all the help so far guys. ill edit this post with my final~ parts list when im done.
So if I cant use tap to leak test, do you guy just drain the loop back in to a bottle, or use new every time?
Because the Res/pump combo is at the bottom does that mean it will be constantly trying to over flow? since it is at the lowest point?
yellow - res/pump out to rad.
blue - rad to cpu
pink - cpu to gpu
red - gpu to (res/pump) res inlet
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