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Proper Grounding *HELP* (Haf 932)

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
I have a question, How do I properly ground myself. Now I have watched a couple videos, each person has a different method.

I have an all black Haf 932 case by the way. Everything inside and outside is black.

Ok some people said: Plug your psu to a wall outlet, and touch it occasionally in order to get rid of static electricity.

Another said: Get an anti static wrist strap and clip it into any metal part of the case that is unpainted. Now, my case is all black, can I just clip it and have no problems?

I just want everything to go smooth, and I prefer anti static wrist strap, so I wont have to worry about touching and touching the PSU.

Please keep your responses simple
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post #2 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_kewl View Post
I have a question, How do I properly ground myself. Now I have watched a couple videos, each person has a different method.

I have an all black Haf 932 case by the way. Everything inside and outside is black.

Ok some people said: Plug your psu to a wall outlet, and touch it occasionally in order to get rid of static electricity.

Another said: Get an anti static wrist strap and clip it into any metal part of the case that is unpainted. Now, my case is all black, can I just clip it and have no problems?

I just want everything to go smooth, and I prefer anti static wrist strap, so I wont have to worry about touching and touching the PSU.

Please keep your responses simple
The only way to be properly grounded is to make physical contact with something that is actually grounded. So the easiest way to get grounded is by keeping the PSU plugged into a wall outlet that you know is properly grounded. Fortunately, the PSU's power switch does not need to be in the On position for this to work.

So if your case is not connected to anything that is grounded (such as a PSU that is plugged into a properly grounded outlet), then touching the case won't ground you because the case itself isn't grounded.

Therefore, using an anti-static wrist strap that's attached to a metal part of your case would be pointless if the PSU isn't plugged into a grounded outlet.


(it doesn't matter if the case is bare or painted)
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post #3 of 17
ive never worried about that stuff and never broken anything, parts are pretty resilient these days. you'll be okay
     
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post #4 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sircles View Post
ive never worried about that stuff and never broken anything, parts are pretty resilient these days. you'll be okay
I dont want to regret anything, especially burning my $2K.
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post #5 of 17
I dont use antistatic crap.. i just touched the case before i started working. I mess with my PC and stuff on my bench a lot. nothings died yet
    
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post #6 of 17
you can get an anti static wrist band if you want and clip it to any part of the case current will travel through the paint with the psu installed, but like sircles said you should be fine aslong as your not working on carpet
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post #7 of 17
Yea don't work on carpet i forgot to mention that.

Also it won't travel through the paint.... that makes no sense..
    
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post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
Therefore, using an anti-static wrist strap that's attached to a metal part of your case would be pointless if the PSU isn't plugged into a grounded outlet.


(it doesn't matter if the case is bare or painted)
Ok to clarify.

I will mount the PSU to the case, plug it into the wall, and attach the wrist strap to the case. Is that fine?
Edited by Mr_kewl - 5/30/11 at 3:12pm
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post #9 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sircles View Post
ive never worried about that stuff and never broken anything, parts are pretty resilient these days. you'll be okay
This.

I know that my agreement with this kinda goes against everything I said above, but as long as none of the parts on a PCB take a direct hit (so to speak), then there's almost nothing to worry about.

For example: I used to have a flawless EVGA 680i SLI. Then one day while installing a brand new I/O shield I received from EVGA (I didn't get one with my motherboard for some reason), I somehow managed to cause the I/O shield to make physical contact with the metal box that houses the ethernet ports. As soon as contact was made, I saw a tiny spark. The result was that my ethernet ports no longer worked, and I lost one of my USB ports as well. In addition, my overclock was no longer stable. It's like the board was scrambled.

So I replaced it with a brand new EVGA 680i SLI (identical model number and everything), and everything was fine.

In other words, I learned my lesson and simultaneously remembered a friend of mine firmly telling me that when I handle any PCB that I need to handle it by its edges. Now I know why.
Edited by TwoCables - 5/30/11 at 3:12pm
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
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Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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post #10 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_kewl View Post
Ok to clarify.

I will mount the PSU to the case, plug it into the wall, and attach the wrist strap to the case. Is that fine?
If the wall outlet is properly grounded, then it should be fine. However, I think a wrist strap is unnecessary. Just touch the case frequently. In addition, you can make constant contact with the case when working with something if it's possible.
It's a computer!
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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