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Planned Loop: Feedback?

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
So this is the basic plan for my summer build inside a fractal design arc midi:
5777990163_dac7b3e840.jpg
The loop is res>pump>rad>cpu>vga>res

any thoughts or feedback? This is my first WC build and any help would be much appreciated.
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post #2 of 18
Looks good.

If it were my loop I'd swap the block out for an EK HF or Rasa tho.
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post #3 of 18
Loop looks great, good luck! My guess is it won't be long before you add/modify/change parts in your loop. Once you start with WC the obsession never ends! biggrin.gif
 
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post #4 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZombieAttack27;13690988 
The loop is res>pump>rad>cpu>vga>res

Letting the heated coolant from the CPU and GPU blocks lounge in the reservoir will keep heat in the loop longer than necessary, increasing loop temps as heat will remain in the case. The radiator cannot introduce cool into a loop, so it really doesn't matter where the loop goes after the rad. What matters is getting the hottest possible coolant into the rad to increase the temperature difference between the coolant and the air outside the rad and as a result make the rad transfer heat more effectively. That can be accomplished best by going CPU>GPU>rad.

Also, don't forget to bleed the loop before positioning the rad or air will get collect in it, diminishing heat transfer, because it's at the highest point in the loop (and that difference will actually be noticeable) thumb.gif
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post #5 of 18
Swiftechs thin rads cool as well as some thick rads so I would suggest that instead.
The XSPC Rasa cpu waterblock cools the same as a heatkiller, so unless you got the heatkiller for half price, the xspc rasa is better money wise.

Basically if you go with the swiftech rad and xspc rasa you should have better temps and it's 25 bucks cheaper, although the rasa is not quite as attractive wink.gif
Edited by nametagg - 5/30/11 at 6:06pm
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post #6 of 18
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the help guys, I have some questions really quick:
-What is "bleeding the radiator"
-Is it okay if I have copper, steel, and nickel in one loop
-Based on petrol's post it would be res>pump>cpu>gpu>rad>res?
-How do I properly leak test the loop without damaging my hardware?
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post #7 of 18
To leak test you set up your loop, take it out of your case and plug it into the power supply, then you "jump start" your power supply with either a jumper tab you can buy or you can use a paper clip plug it into the black an green wire

Heres a pic juggalo23451 took that shows it: http://www.overclock.net/album.php?albumid=2497&pictureid=15506

I think all those metals are fine, its aluminum you don't want.

I think bleeding refers to shaking it to get all the bubble out (I'm not really sure).
Edited by nametagg - 5/30/11 at 6:28pm
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post #8 of 18
Make sure that your power supply is off or unplugged when adding or removing the paper clip.
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post #9 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZombieAttack27;13692262 
Thanks for the help guys, I have some questions really quick:
-What is "bleeding the radiator"
-Is it okay if I have copper, steel, and nickel in one loop
-Based on petrol's post it would be res>pump>cpu>gpu>rad>res?
-How do I properly leak test the loop without damaging my hardware?

Bleeding loop: rapidly switching the pump on and off while gently shaking the case...use a jumpered psu (more on that in a bit)

The main metal to be wary of is aluminum...copper/steel/nickel will be of no consequence...add aluminum and it's a recipe for galvanic corrosion disaster.

Order doesn't matter...eventually the loop will reach equilibrium and you will attain your maximum cooling ability no more/no less after a bit of usage under load (obviously, temp. equilibrium changes depending on your overclocks)

Easiest way to leak test/bleed the loop is with a second power supply. Connect only the pump to said psu and then insert a paperclip/insulated wire with bare ends into the 24pin motherboard connector...you want one end going to the green lead in the connector and the other end into any black lead...it'll 'trick' the cpu and allow it to power up. Then with the pump plugged in, turn the psu on and off while filling the reservoir. When it eventually fills, continue to turn the pump/psu on and off while gently shaking your case. It will take time but eventually the air will displace.

smile.gif
post #10 of 18
Thread Starter 
Haha I know how to jump the power supply... It's just that I've seen several people start the comp with everything plugged in like it's a finished job, but they put paper towels underneath all the blocks. Then I've seen people have just the loop seperately outside of the comp running for a couple days. Is one better than the other?
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