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[Build Log] Quiet, Minimalist Custom Wood Gaming PC - Page 3

post #21 of 120
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Enialius;13717972 
I am really enjoying this build so far! Glad to see people still work with wood these days. I am also doing a wood working project for my comp (nowhere near as cool as yours). I am trying to build a really cool looking box to keep my painted case in so it wont chip the paint when I take it to lans. I am currently working on a prototype version that I will give to my brother for his PC when I am done but it really isnt going very well. It looks good from about 8 feet away but any closer and it is really obvious that it doesnt come together quite right. I am really teaching myself how to do this as i go along. Got any pointers to make it come out right? As it stands, with the cost of materials being so high, i almost feel like I might do better having it done by a professional that way I at least get a product that I like for the money. I should have a couple of pics up on my build log in a few min. if you want to check out and tell me where I am going wrong.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1017881-work-log-custom-copper.html#post13529552

Interesting build, kind of the opposite direction I'm going I think. tongue.gif I liked the farming story, I live between a university and a bunch of turf fields (they're about 1 mile apart), so it's sort of halfway rural?

I'm not sure which woodworking tools you have access to, but I do have a suggestion for the edges of your box that hides the plywood and looks neater overall. It looked like you were using half inch plywood? That should be thick enough.

Take a 2x2, or a 2x4 and rip it down to 1.5" square. Then cut it into an L shape, leaving 1/2" on each side. Keep this piece you cut out (7/8" by 7/8"). Assemble it like this: (cross section)

gmbaX.png

Screw through the plywood into the grey piece, then cover it with the red. Lots of glue and clamping.

The corners are a bit more complicated. The inside is easy, just butt the pieces together. The easiest way to do the outside if you have a chopsaw is to cut a 45 degree angle on the bottom two pieces, then butt the vertical against that. It would probably look better if you did compound joints like I did on my frame, though. I'm a big fan of staining rather than painting... show off that wood, don't hide it. Home Depot and Lowes have some really nice plywoods with veneers made of maple or teak... they're probably too expensive for this project, but even some B/C might look good if you give it a quick sand.
Edited by davecasa - 6/2/11 at 5:23am
post #22 of 120
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taylorsci;13719418 
frown.gif Make it all out of wood!

I really wanted to, the problem is that wood expands and contracts... Screwing a motherboard into something that changes size would be a really bad idea. Same with the GPU. And I figured once I have some parts of an old case in there anyways, might as well use the HDD cage, it will make my life a lot easier. Everything else will be wood though, I promise!
post #23 of 120
Very original!
post #24 of 120
Looking good. I've actually recently started thinking about making a desk with a computer built into it and the ability for pieces to slide out for easy change out. I'll be following this one wink.gif

EDIT: My only concern would be that the frame is held together with glue. I imagine this will be fairly heavy when completed. May want to at least use a few finishing nails perhaps?
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post #25 of 120
jst subbin in love scratch wooden builds biggrin.gif
    
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post #26 of 120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WBaS;13719729 
EDIT: My only concern would be that the frame is held together with glue. I imagine this will be fairly heavy when completed. May want to at least use a few finishing nails perhaps?

I'm not too worried about strength. The type of joint I used is annoying to make but very strong, each piece has 3-4 glue surfaces at every joint. The frame will be permanently attached to the top, front, back, and bottom of the case, again with a large glue area. And in each corner between these outside panels, there's a frame element to double the glue surface. I would agree with you if there were any twisting force on the joints, but especially with the outside pieces on, there will only be compression. BTW, screws give a better grip than nails, and also have the advantage of being removable smile.gif
post #27 of 120
Quote:
Originally Posted by davecasa;13719850 
I'm not too worried about strength. The type of joint I used is annoying to make but very strong, each piece has 3-4 glue surfaces at every joint. The frame will be permanently attached to the top, front, back, and bottom of the case, again with a large glue area. And in each corner between these outside panels, there's a frame element to double the glue surface. I would agree with you if there were any twisting force on the joints, but especially with the outside pieces on, there will only be compression. BTW, screws give a better grip than nails, and also have the advantage of being removable smile.gif

Do you plan on lifting/maneuvering the case often? I agree with the screws being better for grip and being removable, however I mentioned the nails due to the fact that they can be hidden much easier, and probably would not split the wood when trying to install (small cross section).

I think your build looks good. Just wanted to make sure you considered the structural strength. Keep up the good work thumb.gif
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post #28 of 120
Awesome suggestions! I never really thought of it like that (comes from having no earthly clue what I am doing). Thanks for the drawing too. Far above the help I expected to get. I have access to some basic tools but nothing too fancy. I have a close friend who has a wood shop sumilar to yours so I shouldn't have a lot of trouble finding tools. Thank you so much for your help

+rep
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post #29 of 120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WBaS;13719880 
Do you plan on lifting/maneuvering the case often? I agree with the screws being better for grip and being removable, however I mentioned the nails due to the fact that they can be hidden much easier, and probably would not split the wood when trying to install (small cross section).

I think your build looks good. Just wanted to make sure you considered the structural strength. Keep up the good work thumb.gif

This is going to live next to my desk for the rest of its life, not a LAN party machine biggrin.gif Even without the sides on, this thing is really strong, much stronger than I thought it would be... I'm pretty sure I could sit on it. One thing I am considering because of your comments is screwing the panels to the frame in addition to glueing, from the inside so the screws are hidden. But with the panels only 1/2 inch thick, I could only get about 1/4 inch of grip... Might be enough for machine screws, definitely not self-tapping though.

BTW, you can pre-drill holes for screws... takes a while to do right, but they still hold better than nails, and the wood will never split.
post #30 of 120
I really like this build so far. The framework looks meticulous- I don't see any ugly joins on the outside, which is always impressive. Any reason for using the dato blade rather than a router for your pieces? And have you considered some #6 by 5/8"-3/4" screws or some 32 gauge pins just to solidify the frame in key places? I know glue is wonderful and all for joinery, but little movements over time (like the oscillation of a fan, or the constant weight of a motherboard) as the glue dries out completely can really start to pull stuff apart. Just a thought. I think you had that in mind with your design, it looks like every weight bearing joint should be counter supported by other joins.
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