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[Build Log] Quiet, Minimalist Custom Wood Gaming PC - Page 5

post #41 of 120
Quote:
Originally Posted by davecasa;13713791 
You may have noticed, I do everything very slowly and carefully biggrin.gif I'm also paranoid about screwing anything up. Taking the stock heatsink off the GPU made me so nervous...

It took my a couple hours to do my 570s as well. Ihave the same blocks as you. Taking your time is not a bad thing. You want to make sure you got the thermal tape cut properly, make sure all your fittings are tight. I also always go behind the mfg and tighen all the allen wrench bolts as they sometimes arent tightened down all the way.

Slow and steady wins the race. smile.gif
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c300, 2X WD CAVAIAR BLACK 640GB RAID 0 LG Bluray/Dvd Rewriter 7 Ult Gateway 24" lcd 1920x1200 
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post #42 of 120
Thread Starter 
Update - Back Part 1


Really short update today, but I've been doing the daily thing, so I'll try to continue that...

First off, the bottom came out great. Some extra glue to remove, and sanding as always, but a nice fit, I can access the HDD cage, and everything lines up properly.

I tried making a template and using a router table for the cutouts as per Spotswood's suggestion, but it burned the edges pretty badly. It would have sanded out, but then I'd lose the precision gained from using the router instead of a scroll saw anyways. I'm getting pretty good with the saw, but I'm still paranoid about cutting out the top for the radiator. Mostly because it's just such a boring shape...


After I gave up on the router, I made the cutout in the back for the PSU. Since I didn't want the screws too close to the edges of the wood, I had to cover a significant amount of the exhaust area, which makes me somewhat nervous... However, my PSU is efficient enough that the fan only runs if I'm running prime95 or similar.

CNfqi.jpg


As I mentioned above, I'm getting much better with the scroll saw, but it still needs a lot of sanding. It cleaned up nicely, and looks pretty good with the PSU installed. I need to find a source of screws for the PSU, radiator, bottom intake fan, and a few other pieces... Maybe smallparts.com.

EScjn.jpg


It's getting crowded in there...

RKUZs.jpg


After the test fit, I put my PSU back into my current computer so I could resume my Witcher 2 SolidWorks, and figured out the exact placement of the motherboard back plate:

T83iZ.jpg


It's hard to see here, but there's an area to the left of the large hole that is cut in by the thickness of the sheet metal. This is because of how the motherboard tray and backplate fit together; I want the backplate to be flush with the back of the case, so the tray needs to be inset.

520VV.jpg


It's a perfect good enough fit!

FcTQP.jpg


This is really starting to come together...

JHoCd.jpg


I knew I had that dead board laying around for a reason.

u1kIN.jpg


My current problem is something I didn't think about at all in the design: Getting expansion cards (ie. my GPU) in. Most cases are only the thickness of a piece of sheet metal; mine is half an inch, so the wood gets in the way of any cards. I cut/sanded a very shallow angle into the wood above the slots so that I can just barely get cards in, but I have no way of getting screws in. I might drill a hole above each screw for screw driver access; it's all internal, and wouldn't show. Once I resolve this, I can glue the back on, and start work on the front, which involves mounting the DVD drive, front USB, audio, power/reset switches, and deciding if I want LEDs.
post #43 of 120
I got excited when I saw the mobo in there... you're getting close!
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post #44 of 120
Attack that back panel above the expansion slots with the dado blade!
post #45 of 120
I am loving this.
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Lappy
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post #46 of 120
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spotswood;13737369 
Staining pine, eh? Then you MUST apply this pre-conditioner. The stuff really works. I used it before applying linseed oil to the cherry case.

I'll talk to my dad about it, he's the expert. We've mostly worked in hardwoods that don't need any conditioning so I'll definitely look into it, thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by animal0307;13748841 
Attack that back panel above the expansion slots with the dado blade!

You forgot my other favorite tool, but yes, I solved the problem with the dado blade and sand paper biggrin.gif
post #47 of 120
Can't wait to see where this is gonna go, definitely going to follow this.
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post #48 of 120
Thread Starter 
Update - Back Part 2, Front Part 1


I'm within a few minutes of passing out from exhaustion (helped in the garden most of the day), and most of what I did today on the case involved figuring out the front panel. I'm removing more and more parts from my current computer; I no longer have a power or reset button, I had to use a screwdriver to turn it on.


As I mentioned earlier, I used the dado blade and a healthy amount of sanding to make room for expansion card installation:

vVMtp.jpg


I then drilled a hole above each screw for access. The angle is pretty steep, but I can just barely turn the screws. Here's my test one:

wlvQk.jpg


With that problem solved, I did my usual glue-and-clamp routine:

pTijF.jpg


And a few hours later, I had 2 sides completed!

7XVHY.jpg


I was originally planning on mounting the DVD drive behind the front panel, and cutting a slot to insert a DVD... This would have introduced a bunch of problems:
1. Alignment would have to be absolutely perfect, much smaller tolerances than I've had for the rest of the project
2. I'm not sure how to cut the slot
3. I would need to figure something out for the eject button
4. The drive doesn't eject very far, so I wouldn't have much to grab with the extra 1/2 inch
5. Disks would have gotten scratched, or I would have had to felt the opening.

I therefore decided to show the entire bezel of the drive. Next to it are (top to bottom) the power button, reset button, and 2 USB ports. I considered having audio, power/HDD LEDs, and 4 USB ports, but all of that would have made the front too cluttered. I think I'm going to mount one or more LEDs on the bottom of the case (which will be on feet for the air intakes), so there will be a very subtle glow when the computer is on.

b9PzG.jpg


The mount for the DVD drive consists of a bent piece of sheet metal on the bottom where I have access to the screw holes, and a wooden block on top, where I don't.

05cC1.jpg


Glued and clamped:

IzPld.jpg


I have ambitious plans for tomorrow... Finish the front and the top. Once I get those done, I'll have the left side (easy), right side (complicated air intake), staining/finishing, the interior work (sanding/painting metal parts and attaching them)... Then I can get around to the business of putting a computer inside.
post #49 of 120
If you use socket cap screws with a ball driver you won't have any problems turning the PCI expansion screws.
post #50 of 120
Thread Starter 
Yep I have the correct driver lying around somewhere, I just couldn't find it today biggrin.gif
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