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Water Cooling Liquids Recommendation

post #1 of 24
Thread Starter 
I was using Primochill PC ICE for 4 months now but am flushing the system because I accidentally used too much uv black/blue dye bomb in it and one of my tubes are are jet black and the rest are dark blue color. I have xspc tubing from a kit i had which the tube that is black and the rest of the tubing is Primochill Primo flex. I read guides here and there about flushing with rubbing alcohol or vinegar. I decided to use rubbing alcohol and so far its flushed out almost all of the dye but the tubes are still coated with the uv black/blue. I also didnt use a primary base color because I was misled on believing you could use the UV black/blue as a primary color. Instead its a tint. I flushed using distilled water and rubbing alcohol. I ran all rubbing alcohol for a few minutes with the pump on and then flushed it with 2 gallons of distilled water.

I currently have distilled water in my acryllic res and thinking of adding water wetter. What other additives would I need to add?

What would you recommend for a guy on a budget and a guy where cost is no object?

I want the safest bet. Should I just buy more Primochill coolant and stick with that or would distilled water with water wetter work good? I would prefer non conductive, no worries about algal blooms, and non corrosive.

Also can anyone give me tips on flushing? Was what I did incorrect or no?
post #2 of 24
You just need distilled water and PTNuke or KillCoil. Nothing else. No water wetter needed.

You're seeing one of the many problems with dyes. Once used in a loop for a bit, you'll never get your hose back to a clear color. You want clear hose, then you'll need to buy some more.
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post #3 of 24
Feser One is good. Try eBay to find good deals. I bought a liter of it there to redo my liquid cooling in my G5 Quad. Non-conductive and non-corrosive, unlike the "acid" Apple decided to use lol.

Also watch dyes, they can clog up your blocks. You can usually see the sediments in the liquid if they have been sitting on the shelf for a bit so avoid those.
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post #4 of 24
Never use alcohol to flush a system that contains anything made out of acrylic. Alcohol will crack acrylic.

For coolant, use distilled water with PT Nuke PHN or a silver kill-coil. There's no need for water wetter or any other additive.
    
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post #5 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by replin View Post
I was using Primochill PC ICE for 4 months now but am flushing the system because I accidentally used too much uv black/blue dye bomb in it and one of my tubes are are jet black and the rest are dark blue color. I have xspc tubing from a kit i had which the tube that is black and the rest of the tubing is Primochill Primo flex. I read guides here and there about flushing with rubbing alcohol or vinegar. I decided to use rubbing alcohol and so far its flushed out almost all of the dye but the tubes are still coated with the uv black/blue. I also didnt use a primary base color because I was misled on believing you could use the UV black/blue as a primary color. Instead its a tint. I flushed using distilled water and rubbing alcohol. I ran all rubbing alcohol for a few minutes with the pump on and then flushed it with 2 gallons of distilled water.

I currently have distilled water in my acryllic res and thinking of adding water wetter. What other additives would I need to add?

What would you recommend for a guy on a budget and a guy where cost is no object?

I want the safest bet. Should I just buy more Primochill coolant and stick with that or would distilled water with water wetter work good? I would prefer non conductive, no worries about algal blooms, and non corrosive.

Also can anyone give me tips on flushing? Was what I did incorrect or no?
Sorry to say this there is no such thing as none conductive fluid sold by either me, primochill, fesser ect ect the ONLY maker of real none conductive fluid is M3. water non conductivity is a myth. M3 don't use water they use a substance that literally evaporates in your hand once it hits air.

P.s ALL dyes stain. that's what there main purpose in life it to dye things. you'll never avoid that.

the only dye that will never stain is Clear UV blue as it is not a dye.
Edited by Mayhem - 5/31/11 at 9:31pm
post #6 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeSVTguy View Post
Non-conductive and non-corrosive, unlike the "acid" Apple decided to use lol.
Once the liquid was circulating in your loop regardless of "non-conductive" advertising, your water/additive picked up enough ions to be conductive.

This is why you can drop a hot hair-dryer into your bath full of distilled water...and be electrocuted.
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post #7 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post
ONLY maker on real none conductive fluid is M3.
Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeSVTguy View Post
Feser One is good. Try eBay to find good deals. I bought a liter of it there to redo my liquid cooling in my G5 Quad. Non-conductive and non-corrosive, unlike the "acid" Apple decided to use lol.
oh really?

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post #8 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86 5.0L View Post
I can stick a 12v fan in a bottle of pop and it will still work pmsl ... as stated all ready. No such thing as none conductive fluids other than what "3M" (got it the wrong way around) make. Oh and mineral oil.



I make Ultra Pure distilled H20 and that rated at 0tds , 0us but i don't even say on the profile of it its none conductive cos its all marketing hype. We all so do a pre mixed liquid again that comes out at between 0.05 to 0.1us but again we do not use that word as it all bull.
Edited by Mayhem - 5/31/11 at 9:48pm
post #9 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by _AKIMbO_ View Post
Never use alcohol to flush a system that contains anything made out of acrylic. Alcohol will crack acrylic.

For coolant, use distilled water with PT Nuke PHN or a silver kill-coil. There's no need for water wetter or any other additive.
So am I totally screwed and now have to buy a new acryllic res or am I good?

As for now I'll get that PT Nuke stuff you're mentioning.

So many guides out there recommend water wetter. I feel bad because I bought it the other day. I think I'll return it then. Also exactly how much of that Nuke stuff should I put in? Also should I mix it in the gallon jug of distilled water and shake it up or do i just squirt it into the res?

As for the tubing would it be ok if I just ran the current tubes I have now even though they are stained? Or is a change of tubing recommended?

By the way thank you for the super quick responses.
post #10 of 24
1 to 2 drops of PT nuke is enough for most systems.

rinse you tubing out it will be fine after a good rinse same as the res. How ever if you are worried get a new res.
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