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Block making question.

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
Is it better to use a thick piece of copper or a thinner one for a waterblock. I started making one earlier and one of my guys asked me what I was doing and he suggested that instead of a thinner block with more surface area I should leave the piece 8mm thick and just channel the top in between the 0 ring grooves. I was thinking of bringing the center area down to about 3 mm thick with a greater surface area. Any thoughts?
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post #2 of 8
Narrow deep channels are best to increase surface area but that is quite hard to do with a machine without breaking a channel or drill bit.
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post #3 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AMC View Post
Narrow deep channels are best to increase surface area but that is quite hard to do with a machine without breaking a channel or drill bit.
That sounds kinda like what I was doing. I wanted a 4mm deep "channel"/5mm wide with grooves in the bottom .5 mm wife and deep giving about 3 mm of copper between the mosfets and water. Although, I have no idea what I'm doing. Joe said that if I left the 8mm thick and just grooved the top and put the water channel in the plexiglass it would transfer heat better, but he doesn't have any idea what he's talking about either. He does work with metal all day though, but he's making fencing.
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post #4 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by dave12 View Post
That sounds kinda like what I was doing. I wanted a 4mm deep "channel"/5mm wide with grooves in the bottom .5 mm wife and deep giving about 3 mm of copper between the mosfets and water.
Hard to understand. Probably be best with a picture. If the channels are 0.5mm apart and 4mm "tall/deep" and 5mm wide then it should be ok. Although I have no clue how you are going to get it 0.5mm apart. I had a custom block made for me a while ago by my uncle out of aluminum (my rad was aluminum). Just never implemented it . He had a hard time getting the channel small enough without breaking $150 screws.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dave12 View Post
Joe said that if I left the 8mm thick and just grooved the top and put the water channel in the plexiglass it would transfer heat better, but he doesn't have any idea what he's talking about either. He does work with metal all day though, but he's making fencing.
If you have one piece 8mm think and have water flowing through plexiglass then that will make no sense. You want the channels to go into the metal to increase surface area of water/metal contact. Metal is way better at conducting heat then plexiglass hence you want more surface area in the metal. You also want the base thin. You want the heat to transfer faster through metal and have that 'heat' contact water faster. A thicker base will just decrease the heat transfer.
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post #5 of 8
Thread Starter 
Yes. This thread need pics. Or a drawing so I don't actually have to make two of these things. . I'll be back after work.
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post #6 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by dave12 View Post
Yes. This thread need pics. Or a drawing so I don't actually have to make two of these things. . I'll be back after work.
Sounds good. LOL. I have two blocks.....one is better than the other...
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post #7 of 8
The base of a WCing block should be in the range of 0.80mm ~ 1.25mm. That is, the bottom side to the CPU and the inside most bottom of the block. Now, if you go towards the 0.80mm thickness, the inside will need more micro slots, pins, grooves or walls.

The overall walls should be around 4mm ~ 6.35 tall. Leave enough space to incorporate a seal between the copper base and a top cover with fittings. If you build the block walls too tall, the coolant will have a hard time receiving all of the heat.

There are some WCing sites that are fully focused on blocks and RADs with the other things mentioned here and there for a loop.
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post #8 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmaverick View Post
The base of a WCing block should be in the range of 0.80mm ~ 1.25mm. That is, the bottom side to the CPU and the inside most bottom of the block. Now, if you go towards the 0.80mm thickness, the inside will need more micro slots, pins, grooves or walls.

The overall walls should be around 4mm ~ 6.35 tall. Leave enough space to incorporate a seal between the copper base and a top cover with fittings. If you build the block walls too tall, the coolant will have a hard time receiving all of the heat.

There are some WCing sites that are fully focused on blocks and RADs with the other things mentioned here and there for a loop.
Thanks. This is for mosfet block. Does the base thickness you mentioned apply the same? I haven't gotten around to drawing up any pics of what I planned on doing. Damn work.
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