Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Case Mods › Case Mod Work Logs › Guide for swapping LEDs on the NZXT Phantom Fan Controller
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Guide for swapping LEDs on the NZXT Phantom Fan Controller

post #1 of 3
Thread Starter 
I originally posted this in the NZXT Phantom Owner's thread but a few of them told me I should create a separate thread to help others. So, here I am. The problem with the NZXT Phantom is that the Red, White and Black Phantoms all come with Blue LEDs.
However, what if we don't want just another Blue LED case. It's not too difficult to trace the leads and swap out the LEDs on the fans or even to buy another fan in the color we want. What about different colors though? What about availability of the unique size of the 200mm NZXT fan (which is actually 192mm so the screw holes don't line up).
Once you get all those replaced and you fire up your machine to see the new green glow (or whatever color you choose) you realize your work is not done. The blue LEDs on the Power, Reset and Fan Control switches are all BLUE.
Well, that just won't do. You pull the Power and Reset LEDs out and swap them for green. Only took you a few minutes to do that because it was a matter of cutting the lead wires, solder the new LEDs to the leads, heat shrink them (or tape if you want to go that way), then hot glue them back in.
With that done, you figure you are on a roll so you decide you'll knock out the Fan Controller LEDs real quick. You unscrew the controller from the case then open the housing. This is when it hits you that you are stuck with Blue LEDs like it or not because they are soldered directly to the controller board.
There have been a few NZXT Phantom owners who have taken the time to swap out these LEDs and when you ask them how they did it, they tell you, "I just de-soldered the old ones and soldered in the new." No real guidance, no pictures, not even a step-by-step.
I decided to rectify this as I swapped out my blue LEDs for green ones to match the rest of the build. I am sitting in Afghanistan so I still have yet to receive the rest of the components to start the rest of the build so I can't show pics of the completed rig at this time. What I can show you is the ten step process to change out the LEDs as well as the tools I used to do it.
Before you even start, below is a list of what you will need...

1 - Soldering Iron or 18W Airbrush Stencil Cutter
1 - Solder Pump or Solder Braid
1 - Soldering Clamp or Alligator Clip (big paper clip)
1 - Wire Cutter
3 inches or so of Solder
and at least five (3mm) LEDs in your choice of color

Get your Soldering Iron (or Stencil Cutter) heated up and here we go...

Step one...Locate the solder points on the board. They are circled in red.



Step two...Using a soldering pump or a soldering wick, remove the majority of the solder from the board. I started by using the wick because somebody said it works better. I didn't like it so I went back to what I know and used the pump, much better.



Step three...I started out using my 35W Soldering Iron but quickly changed to using my 18W Airbrush Stencil Cutter with a curved tip. The tip is much smaller and easier to use in the tight areas.



Step four...As you are de-soldering, apply SLIGHT (and I mean SLIGHT) pressure to the side of the LED housing on the other side. As you heat up the solder on the flip side, the LED lead-wire will slide out.



Step five...After you get all the LEDs out, use your soldering iron (or stencil cutter) and heat up the excess solder and use the pump to clean it up. It should look like this when you are done.



Step six...You will note that the longer lead is the positive. If you are looking at the back of the housing and pointing the leads up, it should be on the right side (as pictured).



Step seven...As you are sliding the LED leads down into the hole, make sure the positive lead (the long one) is on the right if you are looking at the lamp.



Step eight...Use a soldering clamp (or alligator clip) to hold one lead tightly against the board. This will hold the LED in place and alleviate having to bend a wire over.



Step nine...With the clamp holding one lead, snip the other lead as close to the board as possible, without cutting into the board.



Step ten...From there, you just solder the points. I couldn't take pictures of that because I obviously needed both hands and was working with a hot iron hahaha. Below is the finished product. I can promise you those are the green LEDs but until my PSU gets here I can't show them off.



I hope this guide has been of assistance to you. Although it is specifically designed for replacing the LEDs on the NZXT Fan Controller board, the same theory can be applied to changing just about any LED out on any board. If you have any questions feel free to ask, just keep in mind that I am in a hot combat zone so it may be a few days before I answer back. Good Luck!
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-2600K @5.2GHz (5.0GHz 24/7) ASUS Maximus IV Extreme B3 RoG Edition 2x EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Max Graphics Ed. G.SKILL Ripjaws X - 16GB 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
1x OCZ 120 GB Vertex 3 & 7x 1TB Barracuda 7200.11 Sony BR Burner & Lite-On BR Burner Windows 7 Professional 64bit Two ASUS 23" IPS LED 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech K350 Wireless Thermaltake ToughPower 1050W NZXT Phantom (Black) Logitech Wireless Trackball M570 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-2600K @5.2GHz (5.0GHz 24/7) ASUS Maximus IV Extreme B3 RoG Edition 2x EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Max Graphics Ed. G.SKILL Ripjaws X - 16GB 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
1x OCZ 120 GB Vertex 3 & 7x 1TB Barracuda 7200.11 Sony BR Burner & Lite-On BR Burner Windows 7 Professional 64bit Two ASUS 23" IPS LED 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech K350 Wireless Thermaltake ToughPower 1050W NZXT Phantom (Black) Logitech Wireless Trackball M570 
  hide details  
Reply
post #2 of 3
Very helpful!

Should come in handy to many Phantom owners.

+Rep
Eysenck Box
(12 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Ryzen 1600 Asus B350M-A XFX AMD Vega RX 64 8GB 2x4GB DDR4 2400mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
128GB Intel M.2 SSD Stock Windows 10 Pro x64 LG 27UD58 4K 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Razer Blackwidow (Cherry Blue) Corsair TX550 Silverstone TJ08-E Logitech G403 
  hide details  
Reply
Eysenck Box
(12 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Ryzen 1600 Asus B350M-A XFX AMD Vega RX 64 8GB 2x4GB DDR4 2400mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
128GB Intel M.2 SSD Stock Windows 10 Pro x64 LG 27UD58 4K 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Razer Blackwidow (Cherry Blue) Corsair TX550 Silverstone TJ08-E Logitech G403 
  hide details  
Reply
post #3 of 3
Thread Starter 
Thank you @Nutty Pumpkin.
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-2600K @5.2GHz (5.0GHz 24/7) ASUS Maximus IV Extreme B3 RoG Edition 2x EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Max Graphics Ed. G.SKILL Ripjaws X - 16GB 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
1x OCZ 120 GB Vertex 3 & 7x 1TB Barracuda 7200.11 Sony BR Burner & Lite-On BR Burner Windows 7 Professional 64bit Two ASUS 23" IPS LED 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech K350 Wireless Thermaltake ToughPower 1050W NZXT Phantom (Black) Logitech Wireless Trackball M570 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-2600K @5.2GHz (5.0GHz 24/7) ASUS Maximus IV Extreme B3 RoG Edition 2x EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Max Graphics Ed. G.SKILL Ripjaws X - 16GB 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
1x OCZ 120 GB Vertex 3 & 7x 1TB Barracuda 7200.11 Sony BR Burner & Lite-On BR Burner Windows 7 Professional 64bit Two ASUS 23" IPS LED 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech K350 Wireless Thermaltake ToughPower 1050W NZXT Phantom (Black) Logitech Wireless Trackball M570 
  hide details  
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Case Mod Work Logs
Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Case Mods › Case Mod Work Logs › Guide for swapping LEDs on the NZXT Phantom Fan Controller