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What am I doing wrong in this picture? - Page 3

post #21 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimaggio1103 View Post
The reason I had it low is anything higher and I had to increase the ISO and/or aperture and heard anything above 1600 ISO has poor image quality.
Don't be afraid of 3200 if you're handholding.

3200 f/2, 135L:



Same sensor as your T1i.
post #22 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimaggio1103 View Post
Well thanks for all the input thus far guys. How the heck can you tell my shutter speed was at 1/10? The reason I had it low is anything higher and I had to increase the ISO and/or aperture and heard anything above 1600 ISO has poor image quality. The lighting was darker, and the stock flash looked horrible on it.
Trained eye. No, no, it's just the EXIF data. Your camera embeds it in every shot, which records ISO, shutter, speed, aperture, etc.

If you use Firefox or Chrome, search the extensions for EXIF and you'll find handy tools which allow you to right-click an image and see the EXIF data (if the image hasn't had it stripped first).
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post #23 of 34
Thread Starter 
Thanks Gone did not know that. So it seems as Macro is where I typically go with when practicing.

I plan on saving up for a really nice one like the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM Lens. However, until then is there a macro lens that will suffice for now though that will be around 200 bones? or a tele zoom one?
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post #24 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimaggio1103 View Post
Thanks Gone did not know that. So it seems as Macro is where I typically go with when practicing.

I plan on saving up for a really nice one like the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM Lens. However, until then is there a macro lens that will suffice for now though that will be around 200 bones? or a tele zoom one?
Either I'm having deja vu or you already have a thread going about macro lenses. You've been well informed in that thread. Nevertheless, I would suggest the Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 or EF 100mm f/2.8 (non-L). You might find either of those more than sufficient. Not much beyond your stated budget in the other thread. I used to own the 60mm myself (on the XTi, 40D and 7D) and it's one of the sharpest EF-S lenses, even at non-macro ranges. It makes for a decent normal prime owing to the shorter FL, and I never found the close working distance any problem.
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post #25 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by r31ncarnat3d View Post
Set for a two second timer so you can press your shutter button and lift your hand off without introducing camera shake.
This is off topic from OP, but I always learned to leave your finger depressed on the shutter button so as not to induce crazy shake.......


On topic.. Set your focus closer manually. Turn AF off. You should be able to see the DoF by half-depressing the shutter button (should give you a preview of what it will capture...)
    
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post #26 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by GanjaSMK View Post
This is off topic from OP, but I always learned to leave your finger depressed on the shutter button so as not to induce crazy shake.......
I don't remember how it is from Rebels, but that doesn't work on my 50D. The shutter is much faster and no matter how hard I've tried, I can't do it in such a way that I don't introduce shake into the camera. The timer or a shutter remote are the only two options that have worked for me.
post #27 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by r31ncarnat3d View Post
I don't remember how it is from Rebels, but that doesn't work on my 50D. The shutter is much faster and no matter how hard I've tried, I can't do it in such a way that I don't introduce shake into the camera. The timer or a shutter remote are the only two options that have worked for me.
Oh I definitely love a timer and a tri-pod..

When I took some classes on photography, we had a professional photographer give us tips to minimize shake and exposure bugging by learning how to properly hold a camera with two hands.

Unless using a prop to support it (or tri-pod), and he recommended when free-shooting to always hold the shutter button down as you shoot, unless you're quick-firing for multiple shots. It's much easier to hold the shutter button than trying to release it after you push it, because a) there is less movement in your second hand and b) reduces camera shake and c) your grip on the camera doesn't change (do to odd finger movements).

But... that was what I learned.. Photography is up to the photographer!
    
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post #28 of 34
Oh no, he's right. That technique definitely does reduce camera shake. My problem is though that even though there's less of it, there's still a noticeable amount to bug me
post #29 of 34
Thread Starter 
Ya, the camera shake is a difficult thing to overcome. Also trying to force a macro shot like I am is stupid. I was able to get better details on the beads by backing up and changing shutter speeds like suggested but then the lighting looks horrid so giving up for now on that shot.

So much to learn...on the camera, then I got to get around to learning Photoshop at some point.
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post #30 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimaggio1103 View Post
Ya, the camera shake is a difficult thing to overcome. Also trying to force a macro shot like I am is stupid. I was able to get better details on the beads by backing up and changing shutter speeds like suggested but then the lighting looks horrid so giving up for now on that shot.

So much to learn...on the camera, then I got to get around to learning Photoshop at some point.
One thing on lighting is, use what you have available. If it's just overhead lighting, get a lamp nearby and remove the shade. Use two or more lamps, or spot lights. Find different light.

The thing about light is, if you don't have it where you need it, make it so!
    
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