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Poll Results: whats your choice for 990fx

Poll expired: Jul 11, 2011  
  • 0% (1)
    Asus M5A97evo
  • 0% (1)
    Asus M5A99Xevo
  • 49% (58)
    Asus Sabertooth 990fx
  • 31% (37)
    Asus Crosshair V Formula / Thunderbolt
  • 0% (1)
    Biostar TA-990FXE
  • 12% (15)
    Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7
  • 4% (5)
    MSI 990FXA-GD80
118 Total Votes  
post #4641 of 10135
I need pics cause that just went over my head.
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post #4642 of 10135
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusher33 View Post

I need pics cause that just went over my head.

you know the

http://koolance.com/mvr-heat-transfer-plate-140mm

you have to place it on the vrms. and use the vrm water block

i will be placing one on the vrms in between the ram cooler on the front of the board. made of solid copper and crill screw holes ( and tap them ) and screwing this to it

on the back i will do the same thing except using my custom block ( the short rectangle with single pass going straight through it ) the big one with the "u" shape pass will go on the cpu back plate


i will extend the screws going through my water block and use them to make a mount(red lines ) . the block ( yellow square ) will go in between the ridges you see in the pick. however it will be square with the ridges and using thermal tape as the TIM so i dont short out anything does that make since. the pics in the above posts were just holes i would drill


does that help??
i got the water block design off of ocn( i think ) along time ago it is one of the cheapest ways to make a water block you drill holes into solid copper and cap the extra holes that were only there to make channels ( back when you had to make your own water blocks )
Edited by Mega Man - 4/4/13 at 8:43pm
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post #4643 of 10135
Quote:
Originally Posted by hucklebuck View Post

Anyone here have a fan on the back of the CPU socket to help cool it off. If so what size do you use, and has it helped?

I've got a small chipset fan on mine and it helps. Was thinking of putting a bigger fan there.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=704735&highlight=sabertooth

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=720295&highlight=sabertooth

Take a look at both threads.

Take the findings however you feel to take them but in my "OPINION" and as I feel the data I recorded suggests that fan cooling the VRM sinks and the back of the motherboard make a measurable difference that extends to the temperature of the CPU itself regardless of air or water cooling.

I did not find that cooling the back or vrm sinks helped the Z68/Z77 boards at all even on a decent OC. I would guess that is because of the intel being more efficient.

If you cool the sinks like I did you can probably turn up the frequency of your VRMs without much of a problem heat wise.

I tried the Intel with the VRM frequency pegged and the all the VRM settings on extreme and current not thermal and still the fans made no difference in CPU temp and I couldn't measure the VRM temp because it doesn't have the same monitoring that the sabertooth has. However touching the sinks with my fingers they are barely warm.

As for the Sabertooth 990FX the more current your CPU draws and the higher the VRM temps you are getting the more these fans will make a difference.

Use 40-60mm for the top sinks and 80-120 on the back side. Personally I prefer 80 on the back and off to the side between the VRM heat sink bottom plate and the cpu socket.

Not sure where the majority of the cooling comes from... It could be that you are cooling the socket or it could be that you are cooling the VRM bracket which gets extremely hot.



The single small fan was enough but I tried dual small fans and dual 80mm 4000RPM fans and honestly I felt the single small fan was plenty with a 80 on the back side.

The way I did the Intel... you can do this with the 990FX as well


Edited by givmedew - 4/5/13 at 1:19am
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post #4644 of 10135
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusher33 View Post

I need pics cause that just went over my head.

you know the

http://koolance.com/mvr-heat-transfer-plate-140mm

you have to place it on the vrms. and use the vrm water block

i will be placing one on the vrms in between the ram cooler on the front of the board. made of solid copper and crill screw holes ( and tap them ) and screwing this to it

on the back i will do the same thing except using my custom block ( the short rectangle with single pass going straight through it ) the big one with the "u" shape pass will go on the cpu back plate


i will extend the screws going through my water block and use them to make a mount(red lines ) . the block ( yellow square ) will go in between the ridges you see in the pick. however it will be square with the ridges and using thermal tape as the TIM so i dont short out anything does that make since. the pics in the above posts were just holes i would drill


does that help??
i got the water block design off of ocn( i think ) along time ago it is one of the cheapest ways to make a water block you drill holes into solid copper and cap the extra holes that were only there to make channels ( back when you had to make your own water blocks )

Yeah that made a little more sense to me.

And I remember that thread about making their own waterblock. That was interesting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by givmedew View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by hucklebuck View Post

Anyone here have a fan on the back of the CPU socket to help cool it off. If so what size do you use, and has it helped?

I've got a small chipset fan on mine and it helps. Was thinking of putting a bigger fan there.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=704735&highlight=sabertooth

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=720295&highlight=sabertooth

Take a look at both threads.

Take the findings however you feel to take them but in my "OPINION" and as I feel the data I recorded suggests that fan cooling the VRM sinks and the back of the motherboard make a measurable difference that extends to the temperature of the CPU itself regardless of air or water cooling.

I did not find that cooling the back or vrm sinks helped the Z68/Z77 boards at all even on a decent OC. I would guess that is because of the intel being more efficient.

If you cool the sinks like I did you can probably turn up the frequency of your VRMs without much of a problem heat wise.

I tried the Intel with the VRM frequency pegged and the all the VRM settings on extreme and current not thermal and still the fans made no difference in CPU temp and I couldn't measure the VRM temp because it doesn't have the same monitoring that the sabertooth has. However touching the sinks with my fingers they are barely warm.

As for the Sabertooth 990FX the more current your CPU draws and the higher the VRM temps you are getting the more these fans will make a difference.

Use 40-60mm for the top sinks and 80-120 on the back side. Personally I prefer 80 on the back and off to the side between the VRM heat sink bottom plate and the cpu socket.

Not sure where the majority of the cooling comes from... It could be that you are cooling the socket or it could be that you are cooling the VRM bracket which gets extremely hot.



The single small fan was enough but I tried dual small fans and dual 80mm 4000RPM fans and honestly I felt the single small fan was plenty with a 80 on the back side.

The way I did the Intel... you can do this with the 990FX as well


Ugly pictures but here's what I did with mine. Without this fan above the area, I noticed the heatsink of NOT just the VRM's but also the one in between the PCI slots and CPU was VERY warm. I made this mount by taking a sheet metal, cut out hole for fan, and bent it. With this fan blowing over both the VRM and that NB heatsink (or whatever that is), the overall temperatures have dropped immensely. The just need more airflow over the heatsinks.


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post #4645 of 10135
Good news, Newegg has the R2/Gen3 for $199.99.
    
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post #4646 of 10135
hey guys, its been a while since the last time i was on the forums, i have been doing some upgrades to my rig, and decided that i should update the bios before my new vapor-x 7970 ghz edition gets here, i just added a 250gb samsung 840 ssd, and a seagate 2tb hdd, just waiting on the new gpu now, for those of you who dont know me, im the guy that has been modding the sabertooth 990fx BIOS files to add SLIC 2.1 tables so you can activate windows 7 OEM editions, well i have a fresh new bios file modded and ready to flash, the last one i did was 0813 i think, this is the latest bios from ASUS v1604, let me know if you guys need any older bios updates modded, i can do it, here is a link to the new bios, and i have also upped a photo so you can see that it does have a slic 2.1 table [/URL]
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post #4647 of 10135
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusher33 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusher33 View Post

Ugly pictures but here's what I did with mine. Without this fan above the area, I noticed the heatsink of NOT just the VRM's but also the one in between the PCI slots and CPU was VERY warm. I made this mount by taking a sheet metal, cut out hole for fan, and bent it. With this fan blowing over both the VRM and that NB heatsink (or whatever that is), the overall temperatures have dropped immensely. The just need more airflow over the heatsinks.



Nice job making that fan mount. I did not notice a cooling difference when adding active cooling to the smaller heat sink area when it was done in addition to the 2 40MM fans. There may be 2 reasons for this... reason 1: and the less likely reason is that a heat pipe connects the 2 heat sinks together. Reason 2: I was probably not utilizing whatever is under that heat sink. I do not believe it is a north bridge (I thought that was in the proc) but I think it is the VRMs for something else like the memory and my memory was not overvolted yours may be...

I am not certain in any way though... Again just adding the 2nd 40mm fan was such a minimal difference that I used just 1. I do truly believe that having a smaller fan with a higher PSI key words in what PSI stands for is per and inch being that it is my belief that my 40MM fan right above the heat sink is providing better cooling to the sink than your 120mm fan is but I could be incorrect about that. Later I found that just using the tiny little ROG fan on a RIIIE VRM sink made a noticeable difference and that fan is even smaller.

I could def see a combination of a 120 like the way you did it and 2 smaller fans making a noticeable difference.

Did you do any data recording? Did it make a difference in your CPU and VRM temps? Which VRM temp did it affect more? Which VRM temp shows to be higher on your board normally?

I def think that this is a board that needs active cooling on the sinks if there is extreme overclocking going on. Someone else (The guy who tears down PSUs on overlockers.com) lent another theory behind why the intel Z68/Z77 boards run so cool besides just the TDP being lower. The second thread I posted has his opinion on the matter.

Edited by givmedew - 4/6/13 at 7:07am
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post #4648 of 10135
I'm too lazy to record data. redface.gif

What I do know that it did drop the temps and suddenly I was able to OC easier.

The 2 80mm fans was actually for the GPU as I'm using a universal block with heatsinks on the VRM and memory.
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post #4649 of 10135
I do not believe it is a north bridge (I thought that was in the proc)

The NB is not in the CPU it's under the heatsink between the first PCIe slot and the CPU socket.
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post #4650 of 10135
Quote:
Originally Posted by givmedew View Post

Did you take this back yet? If so did replacing it help? Coil whine is very tricky and can be from the a combination of things. Swapping out one single part can create or stop the coil whine. Also not everyone is sensitive to coil whine since we all have different limits to how high of a frequency we can hear. For example there was a phone once (lg voyager) that lots of women where bringing in and saying they could hear a high pitch squeal. I was the only guy at work that could hear it. That is because women hear a little bit higher frequency than men and are less likely to have been exposed to ear damaging sounds. The squeal was coming from the CFL on the inside and was only present when the backlight was on and the phone was open to the inside since the external screen did not use the same backlight.

One thing to keep in mind though is to my knowledge that board has a 2-phase VRM supply to the memory with a bunch of capacitors and that is really not enough juice for 4 dimms of ram to be run full out on. That is why the manual says something along the lines of not OCing the ram if you have 4 dimms. I doubt this is the source of your coil whine but replacing the CPU most likely meant that your ram now runs at a higher speed and could be downing some more juice.

One thing you can try is to adjust the switching speed of the VRMs. I don't know if this controls all VRMs or just the CPU ones but change it to any other frequency then what you are currently running it at. So maybe manual of 500 or 600. You could also try enabling spread spectrum on the VRMs. This is not the same as spread spectrum on the CPU and this feature is known to stabilize OCs not make them worse.

If swapping the board is an option that doesn't result in the loss of cash then go for it as just changing it will likely cause just a small enough difference to get rid of the issue. If the issue persists you may not have pointed at the right device as far as what was making the noise. High frequencies are hard to pin down and can echo off of walls and actually sound if they are coming from a completely different place. So like someone else said it could be your PSU. Also I had a PSU that caused whine on a Rampage III Extreme but when that PSU was put with a different motherboard and a different PSU with the Rampage none of them whined. I can also hear the whine from my nixeus occasionally and sometimes there is a whine that comes from inside the computer when I move my mouse. I can also hear a whine from the computer when the capacitors on my 2CH separate amp charges up (2 caps the size of oil filters).

It just sucks if you can hear those frequencies... I guess you could always go cut some aluminum siding with a skill saw and no earplugs and the problem will probably go away LOL. Neither my dad or uncle can hear any high frequencies. My dad is completely oblivious to the mosquito ringer and my brother says none of his teachers can hear it either so just goes to show how much luck, age, gender, and occupation play into hearing coil whine.

Well my squeal was in fact the old psu, spent out on a seasonic 850w that solved the problem. New problem is the boot led on the motherboard is staying on when the pc first gets switched on in the morning, all fine on second attempt and no further problems. Have re flashed bios checked connections, checked boot order. wont now now if it has helped until the morning when the pc has been off all night.
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