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[Official] ASUS sabertooth AMD Owners Club - Page 688

Poll Results: whats your choice for 990fx

Poll expired: Jul 11, 2011  
  • 0% (1)
    Asus M5A97evo
  • 0% (1)
    Asus M5A99Xevo
  • 49% (58)
    Asus Sabertooth 990fx
  • 31% (37)
    Asus Crosshair V Formula / Thunderbolt
  • 0% (1)
    Biostar TA-990FXE
  • 12% (15)
    Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7
  • 4% (5)
    MSI 990FXA-GD80
118 Total Votes  
post #6871 of 10159
this is the settings that i set up that get stable on prime95 for 4hrs then freeze.. frown.gif[/quote]
Quote:
Originally Posted by carloyz250f View Post











This is not what I want you to do but just consider changing a few things that might help, and please, don't aim for anywhere near 5 until you get the current stable, its just that I noticed a few things I had a little different than yours. So here is my take.

For my 5.4 run (your pic1) I left both *Spread Spectrum* Disabled, I changed PCI Freq to 100, that is what it's supposed to be anyway used a 272x20 Fsb X multi (so your multi is a good choice -20, I believe I used a higher cpu/nb, but for your purpose it is fine the way it is @ 1.25. For ram I lowered it to 14474mhz and loosened the timings to 11-11-11-24 ( I was using ddr3 1600 Muhkin Enhanced Blackline CL9 ) My Ht link was also 2442 ( I know you get weird numbers as you play with FSB so try to aim for perfect balance) I see you have a nice 2400/2400 going. I know I may get yelled at for this, but you may want to up the NB voltage just a tad. I was having stability issues until I raised it, yes it did change color, but remember, I was going for 5.4, so please if you must go up 1 step at a time!!!! I also had to raise the ram voltage pretty darn high, also changed color, but again, for your purpose you may want to go up 1 step and retest each time.

Onto your Pic 2. I used Extreme for CPU LLC, and high for CPU/NB I believe it turns red, but for your purpose 130/130% looks good. The rest I used like you have except for CPU Power Phase Control, I set to highest possible and DRAM Current Capability which I set to 300%, but this was way back in February so I may be mistaken.

The rest looks same as I had, I guess it really comes down to looking at temps after you make changes, usually adding a little more juice to your CPU Manual Voltage, F10 then boot into bios for a little while and observe the changes in temps. Remember, FX Chips are known to spike up up to 200~mhz-300mhz once booted into Windows, have to take that into account. But before you boot straight into Windows, boot into bios and observe the temps in the Monitor section, if they look high there, they will only go up once in windows. It is also a good idea to take into account your ambient room temperature, even water cooling depends on the rads, and the liquid inside can't go have a lower temperature than what is in the room unless you would put it inside a refrigerator, bur then you would need longer hoses, more pumps etc etc, and it would just be a major headache (condensation etc etc). I suppose you can take some dry ice now this is only if you have rads OUTSIDE your computer, we don't want any moisture so filter out any possible moisture but keep the cooling properties, perhaps use copper tubing around the rad which leads to a dry ice container. , this may lower temp of the rad itself. I hope I have helped a little, if not then omit my post as I am not a professional as most of these other guys are.

Edited by rollobollo - 4/18/14 at 7:10pm
post #6872 of 10159
Quote:
Originally Posted by F3ERS 2 ASH3S View Post

It's the tag on the 24 pin power connector
Sorry its been a while things have been VERY hectic to say the least. Will be back home on sunday and will take a look then. Thanks a lot for this biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif
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post #6873 of 10159
Quote:
Originally Posted by carloyz250f View Post



this is the settings that i set up that get stable on prime95 for 4hrs then freeze.. frown.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwishaMane View Post

What should I do now that Asus RMA sent me my same board back and it still doesnt work? Makes me think it wasnt the board at all... Video card works, RAM works. Only thing I can't test is CPU. But it was a barely pushed fx8350. Never had a cpu just up and die before. That would be unsettling.

I have said before, they do a very simple diagnostic test, they have a stick of ram approved Sabertooth_990FX_R20-Memory-QVL and they see if the board can post, if it posts, they may repeat the test several times, and they call it quits and send the board back. Now if it does not post, it goes onto repair stage 2. I am really sorry about your situation mad.gif I had an issue with my Asus GTX780-DC2OC-3GD5 and the bios, I basically installed the wrong *volt unlocking bios on accident* the card worked and all, but there were obvious issues. I was lucky enough, somehow...no clue how, to get in touch with someone who knew what they were doing. This person sent me a piece of software which basically tells you every bit nook and cranny about your Asus graphics card, and you send the info back, then I was sent back a nvflash with the proper AS03_AP.rom file, he was even nice enough to include a batch file to automate the process. I mean I was blown away at how fast this was all done. I sent the email on day 1, within 24 hours had the software in hand, sent back results the same day, within another 24 hours I had my original bios in hand ( I asked for the original bios, as the new *quiet bios* just isn't my cup of tea. I don't need the fans spinning THAT low. I can't hear the card at fan speed 37%, what is the point of it going to mid 20s if I recall ( I did try it). It seems with Asus return policy, it is a hit or miss, if your board can't post, then it will actually get more care, at least that is what I think, but I am just one anonymous poster so take my advice or leave it. Either way, I wish you the best of luck.
post #6874 of 10159
Quote:
Originally Posted by rollobollo View Post


I have said before, they do a very simple diagnostic test, they have a stick of ram approved Sabertooth_990FX_R20-Memory-QVL and they see if the board can post, if it posts, they may repeat the test several times, and they call it quits and send the board back. Now if it does not post, it goes onto repair stage 2. I am really sorry about your situation mad.gif I had an issue with my Asus GTX780-DC2OC-3GD5 and the bios, I basically installed the wrong *volt unlocking bios on accident* the card worked and all, but there were obvious issues. I was lucky enough, somehow...no clue how, to get in touch with someone who knew what they were doing. This person sent me a piece of software which basically tells you every bit nook and cranny about your Asus graphics card, and you send the info back, then I was sent back a nvflash with the proper AS03_AP.rom file, he was even nice enough to include a batch file to automate the process. I mean I was blown away at how fast this was all done. I sent the email on day 1, within 24 hours had the software in hand, sent back results the same day, within another 24 hours I had my original bios in hand ( I asked for the original bios, as the new *quiet bios* just isn't my cup of tea. I don't need the fans spinning THAT low. I can't hear the card at fan speed 37%, what is the point of it going to mid 20s if I recall ( I did try it). It seems with Asus return policy, it is a hit or miss, if your board can't post, then it will actually get more care, at least that is what I think, but I am just one anonymous poster so take my advice or leave it. Either way, I wish you the best of luck.

I just thought of something, is your RAM on their approved list? I had same problems with Mushkin Enhanced Blackline, I thought the motherboard or CPU (bent pin) or something was jacked up, but it turns out, the board simply did not accept the ram. Check your ram compatibility.
post #6875 of 10159
Quote:
Originally Posted by rollobollo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by carloyz250f View Post



this is the settings that i set up that get stable on prime95 for 4hrs then freeze.. frown.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwishaMane View Post

What should I do now that Asus RMA sent me my same board back and it still doesnt work? Makes me think it wasnt the board at all... Video card works, RAM works. Only thing I can't test is CPU. But it was a barely pushed fx8350. Never had a cpu just up and die before. That would be unsettling.

I have said before, they do a very simple diagnostic test, they have a stick of ram approved Sabertooth_990FX_R20-Memory-QVL and they see if the board can post, if it posts, they may repeat the test several times, and they call it quits and send the board back. Now if it does not post, it goes onto repair stage 2. I am really sorry about your situation mad.gif I had an issue with my Asus GTX780-DC2OC-3GD5 and the bios, I basically installed the wrong *volt unlocking bios on accident* the card worked and all, but there were obvious issues. I was lucky enough, somehow...no clue how, to get in touch with someone who knew what they were doing. This person sent me a piece of software which basically tells you every bit nook and cranny about your Asus graphics card, and you send the info back, then I was sent back a nvflash with the proper AS03_AP.rom file, he was even nice enough to include a batch file to automate the process. I mean I was blown away at how fast this was all done. I sent the email on day 1, within 24 hours had the software in hand, sent back results the same day, within another 24 hours I had my original bios in hand ( I asked for the original bios, as the new *quiet bios* just isn't my cup of tea. I don't need the fans spinning THAT low. I can't hear the card at fan speed 37%, what is the point of it going to mid 20s if I recall ( I did try it). It seems with Asus return policy, it is a hit or miss, if your board can't post, then it will actually get more care, at least that is what I think, but I am just one anonymous poster so take my advice or leave it. Either way, I wish you the best of luck.

Did you try and clear the cmos and remove the battery and use the right jumper? Sometimes it can help... Good luck!
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post #6876 of 10159
my laptop died last night sorry。 as i am in china it took me a long time to try and (unsucessfully) fix it. with that said i am on tablet so no spoilers
Quote:
Originally Posted by mus1mus View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by carloyz250f View Post

my stock cpu/nb volts is 1.16v what do u tink i shound try?

1.16 is what? 1.2 biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

You can try options like
1. Increasing the Vcore with a low CPU-NB or
2. Stay at your Vcore with a bump on the CPU-NB.

Your choice.

Just continue testing it so you'll find out which voltage will give you the stability + most desired Temps.
this is the pettiness. 1.16is .04v far away from 1.2which in the world of cpus is alot where 0.05v can make or break you (or even less). esp when it can add the most heat
Quote:
Originally Posted by carloyz250f View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

... you really think you will win this by using petty arguments feel free.

please post a screen shot of your voltage bios screen and your digi bios screen ( or multiple if needed )
use windows snippet to post screenshots as needed fyi









Im sory i tough my cpu/nb voltage is at 1.2v when i stable on 4hrs actually its 1.25v sory again. Please help me..

my first question is why are you fsb ocing. the volts will stay the same. but you should learn with just multi.

with that said. you need to keep pcieat 100 no matter what until you are more experianced

bump nb volts (not cpu\nb to 1.2-1.25)

IF YOU HAVE A FAN ON YOUR VRM HEATSINKS!!! (if not get one at these ocs they are needed)

cpu power phase control to extreme
cpu power responce control and cpu\nb set to whatever is maximum. (i dont remember atm somone will have to help. as i am getting ready for a funeral i dont have time sorry)



cpu power duty to current control


you dont need hpc enabled when apm is disabled.


lastly that pic where you have ibt running is not ibt avx. ibtavx pushes newer cpus much harder and you may not be stable.


everything else looks ok. but again untill you feel comfortable ocing your cpu. and you know your cpu. i highly recommend not fsb ocing and just use the multi
Quote:
Originally Posted by rollobollo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by carloyz250f View Post










this is the settings that i set up that get stable on prime95 for 4hrs then freeze.. frown.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by carloyz250f View Post










this is the settings that i set up that get stable on prime95 for 4hrs then freeze.. frown.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by carloyz250f View Post










this is the settings that i set up that get stable on prime95 for 4hrs then freeze.. frown.gif

This is not what I want you to do but just consider changing a few things that might help, and please, don't aim for anywhere near 5 until you get the current stable, its just that I noticed a few things I had a little different than yours. So here is my take.

For my 5.4 run (your pic1) I left both *Spread Spectrum* Disabled, I changed PCI Freq to 100, that is what it's supposed to be anyway used a 272x20 Fsb X multi (so your multi is a good choice -20, I believe I used a higher cpu/nb, but for your purpose it is fine the way it is @ 1.25. For ram I lowered it to 14474mhz and loosened the timings to 11-11-11-24 ( I was using ddr3 1600 Muhkin Enhanced Blackline CL9 ) My Ht link was also 2442 ( I know you get weird numbers as you play with FSB so try to aim for perfect balance) I see you have a nice 2400/2400 going. I know I may get yelled at for this, but you may want to up the NB voltage just a tad. I was having stability issues until I raised it, yes it did change color, but remember, I was going for 5.4, so please if you must go up 1 step at a time!!!! I also had to raise the ram voltage pretty darn high, also changed color, but again, for your purpose you may want to go up 1 step and retest each time.

Onto your Pic 2. I used Extreme for CPU LLC, and high for CPU/NB I believe it turns red, but for your purpose 130/130% looks good. The rest I used like you have except for CPU Power Phase Control, I set to highest possible and DRAM Current Capability which I set to 300%, but this was way back in February so I may be mistaken.

The rest looks same as I had, I guess it really comes down to looking at temps after you make changes, usually adding a little more juice to your CPU Manual Voltage, F10 then boot into bios for a little while and observe the changes in temps. Remember, FX Chips are known to spike up up to 200~mhz-300mhz once booted into Windows, have to take that into account. But before you boot straight into Windows, boot into bios and observe the temps in the Monitor section, if they look high there, they will only go up once in windows. It is also a good idea to take into account your ambient room temperature, even water cooling depends on the rads, and the liquid inside can't go have a lower temperature than what is in the room unless you would put it inside a refrigerator, bur then you would need longer hoses, more pumps etc etc, and it would just be a major headache (condensation etc etc). I suppose you can take some ice cubes, and put them in a zipper gladlock bag and put them where the rads take in air, now this is only if you have rads OUTSIDE your computer and you would put a cloth to catch any water droplets to account for condensation, this may lower the air temp being sucked in. I hope I have helped a little, if not then omit my post as I am not a professional as most of these other guys are.
not at all i would not try yell at anyone for helping. however he just argues with me. he wont even try in the 83xx thread however. in which he would be told he is wrong. whhat he fails to understamd is i have been here alot longer. pushed several chips much farther then most and proved it. and help alot more people with ocing 83xx chips sucessfully. and across several boards (esp as i own 4 different boards)

as to benching we gotta teach you to do a icebox chiller!
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post #6877 of 10159
My friend and i have been wondering what are the chances of getting 3000MHz stable on the CPU-NB/NB?
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Intel Core i7 4770K 4.4Ghz 1.25V ASUS Z87 Sabertooth EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 iCX 2126/11GHz 16GB DDR3 2400Mhz 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Kingston 480GB SSD HGST 2TB Corsair H100i Windows 10 Home 64-bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
AOC I2269VW-B 22" Razer BlackWidow Ultimate 2014 Corsair HX650 Corsair Vengance C70 Gunmetal 
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Razer Deathadder 2013 Razer goliathus Sound Blaster X-FI Xtreme Audio PCIe 
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post #6878 of 10159
Are you kidding me? OF course I cleared cmos and removed battery, etc etc... New cpu didnt help, different video card, nothing... One stick of RAM, nothing. ugh

And there should only be one stage of an RMA... If its broke fix it. If it cant be fixed, replace.

They just took it out of box and put in another. Its just as dead as before, just went on a $30 trip around Indiana between 20 sets of hands. w00t w00t
Edited by SwishaMane - 4/18/14 at 5:03pm
Jack out the box
(17 items)
 
Back-up Beauty
(17 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD 8350 Gigabyte 990FX UD3 R5 Sapphire RX 480 reference Corsair Dominator Platinums 16GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
256GB Samsung 840 Pro 1TB WD Black LG dvd+r Custom water loop 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windoze 7 Samsung SyncMaster 2333HD USB generic SeaSonic X750 GOLD 85+ 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
MicroCool Banchetto 101 tech station Razer Diamondback epic galaxy deep space render E-MU 
Other
This rig is awesome :) 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Opteron 185 ASUS A8N32_SLI Deluxe eVGA GTX 950 2GB 16GB DDR1 Samsung UCCC 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
2x 640 GB Western digital Caviar Black 120GB Crucial M4 SSD Generic DVD+R, SATA Corsair tower cooler, generic. Not very good, b... 
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Win7 52" Sony Bravia 1080p Logitech K400 wireless kb/mouse Corsair TX650, 2011+ model 
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Modded Antec 902 On-board 
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Jack out the box
(17 items)
 
Back-up Beauty
(17 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD 8350 Gigabyte 990FX UD3 R5 Sapphire RX 480 reference Corsair Dominator Platinums 16GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
256GB Samsung 840 Pro 1TB WD Black LG dvd+r Custom water loop 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windoze 7 Samsung SyncMaster 2333HD USB generic SeaSonic X750 GOLD 85+ 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
MicroCool Banchetto 101 tech station Razer Diamondback epic galaxy deep space render E-MU 
Other
This rig is awesome :) 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Opteron 185 ASUS A8N32_SLI Deluxe eVGA GTX 950 2GB 16GB DDR1 Samsung UCCC 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
2x 640 GB Western digital Caviar Black 120GB Crucial M4 SSD Generic DVD+R, SATA Corsair tower cooler, generic. Not very good, b... 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Win7 52" Sony Bravia 1080p Logitech K400 wireless kb/mouse Corsair TX650, 2011+ model 
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Modded Antec 902 On-board 
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post #6879 of 10159
as to benching we gotta teach you to do a icebox chiller![/quote]

Something like a Hailea HC-500A Water Chiller ?
Edited by rollobollo - 4/18/14 at 5:06pm
post #6880 of 10159
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwishaMane View Post

Are you kidding me? OF course I cleared cmos and removed battery, etc etc... New cpu didnt help, different video card, nothing... One stick of RAM, nothing. ugh

And there should only be one stage of an RMA... If its broke fix it. If it cant be fixed, replace.

They just took it out of box and put in another. Its just as dead as before, just went on a $30 trip around Indiana between 20 sets of hands. w00t w00t
Try flash an older bios?
Crayemulator
(34 items)
 
HTPC
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Laptop
(20 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-6100 Asus Sabretooth 990FX rev 2.0 Sapphire R9 290X Tri-X Vulcan DDR3 2400 Orange Series 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Western Digital Western Digital Samsung Seagate Barracuda 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
LG DVD-RW DH16A1L 140 mm Cooltek fan Noctua NF-P12 premium fan Noctua NF-P12 premium fan 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
140 mm Cooltek fan 140 mm Cooltek fan Coolermaster Seidon M120 140 mm Cooltek fan 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC 420 reservoir and pump Antec Kühler 920 Phobya G-Silent 12 Phobya G-Silent 12 
OSOSMonitorKeyboard
Windows 8.1 Professional OpenSuSE 12.2 22" LG Flatron W2243T Keysonic 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Be quiet! Straight Power E6 (700W) Corsair Carbide 400R Logitech Gaming Mouse Case Logic Gel-eez 
AudioAudioOtherOther
Samsung 240T Loudspeaker Onboard SATA Y power cable 2x Y 3-pin power cable 
OtherOther
4x S-ATA cable black 50 cm 12volt 4x 3-pin power cable adapter 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Phenom 550 2x Biostar TA870+  ATI Radeon HD 4300 Noname Ram 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
Western Digital Caviar Blue Hitach LC Power Cosmo Cool LC-CC95 Arctic Cooler F9 PWM 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Arctic Cooler F8 PWM Windows 7 Ultimate 27" Acer Noname 
PowerOther
Enermax Pro87+ 500 Watt  3.5" 1.44 MB disk drive  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Turion 64 X2 Ultra  SB 700 series HD 3650 HD 3200 
RAMRAMHard DriveOptical Drive
Komputerbay Noname Samsung Spinpoint M8 Sony DVD/DV-RW TS-L633A 
OSMonitorKeyboardMouse
Windows 8 LG Flatsscreen PS/2 compatible PS/2 compatible 
AudioOtherOtherOther
AMD High Definition Audio Device Bluetooth Adapter Winbond CIR Transceiver IEEE 1394 Firewire 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Qualcomm Atheros AR928X wireless JMicron PCIe MS/SD/MMC/xD Host Controller Realtek PCIe GBE  Logitech 1.3 M WebCam 
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Crayemulator
(34 items)
 
HTPC
(14 items)
 
Laptop
(20 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-6100 Asus Sabretooth 990FX rev 2.0 Sapphire R9 290X Tri-X Vulcan DDR3 2400 Orange Series 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Western Digital Western Digital Samsung Seagate Barracuda 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
LG DVD-RW DH16A1L 140 mm Cooltek fan Noctua NF-P12 premium fan Noctua NF-P12 premium fan 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
140 mm Cooltek fan 140 mm Cooltek fan Coolermaster Seidon M120 140 mm Cooltek fan 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC 420 reservoir and pump Antec Kühler 920 Phobya G-Silent 12 Phobya G-Silent 12 
OSOSMonitorKeyboard
Windows 8.1 Professional OpenSuSE 12.2 22" LG Flatron W2243T Keysonic 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Be quiet! Straight Power E6 (700W) Corsair Carbide 400R Logitech Gaming Mouse Case Logic Gel-eez 
AudioAudioOtherOther
Samsung 240T Loudspeaker Onboard SATA Y power cable 2x Y 3-pin power cable 
OtherOther
4x S-ATA cable black 50 cm 12volt 4x 3-pin power cable adapter 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Phenom 550 2x Biostar TA870+  ATI Radeon HD 4300 Noname Ram 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
Western Digital Caviar Blue Hitach LC Power Cosmo Cool LC-CC95 Arctic Cooler F9 PWM 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Arctic Cooler F8 PWM Windows 7 Ultimate 27" Acer Noname 
PowerOther
Enermax Pro87+ 500 Watt  3.5" 1.44 MB disk drive  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Turion 64 X2 Ultra  SB 700 series HD 3650 HD 3200 
RAMRAMHard DriveOptical Drive
Komputerbay Noname Samsung Spinpoint M8 Sony DVD/DV-RW TS-L633A 
OSMonitorKeyboardMouse
Windows 8 LG Flatsscreen PS/2 compatible PS/2 compatible 
AudioOtherOtherOther
AMD High Definition Audio Device Bluetooth Adapter Winbond CIR Transceiver IEEE 1394 Firewire 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Qualcomm Atheros AR928X wireless JMicron PCIe MS/SD/MMC/xD Host Controller Realtek PCIe GBE  Logitech 1.3 M WebCam 
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