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Best Lapping Kit? - Page 3

post #21 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kratthew D. Kraids;13786507 
If you aren't lapping on a flat surface, the surface you are trying to lap is going to have any bump and imperfections left on the surface.

Hence, my question. LOL.
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Ol' Betsy
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post #22 of 26
Cripes I can't read today, glass preferably or clean off your kitchen table I did my Phenom 9850 on my kitchen counter and it worked great. I shaved off 6c on my load temps.
    
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post #23 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kratthew D. Kraids;13786562 
Cripes I can't read today, glass preferably or clean off your kitchen table I did my Phenom 9850 on my kitchen counter and it worked great. I shaved off 6c on my load temps.

I might actually buy a cheap picture frame as glass is super flat. +Rep. Thanks again.
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Ol' Betsy
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post #24 of 26
Just remember to tape the crap out of it so the sand paper doesn't move, glad you found my post helpful thumb.gif take your time and be very patient, it should take at least an hour to lap your heatsink.
    
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post #25 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie310;13786355 
You guys agree?

No.

After 1000 grit there are diminishing returns. While it does help the extra work required to get it as flat as possible, which induces a shine, is sometimes not worth the effort.

Theoretically if both surfaces are so flat, then you wouldn't need TIM. The TIM is there to fill in the gaps created from the machining process.

Start off at 400, 200 grit is way too abrasive and will require much more work when getting to 400 grit. This was from experience. Then 600, 800, you can skip to 1200. If you like. Then if you want it shinier 1500, 2000, 2500.

Make sure to use some sort of lubricant, water and some soap is an effective method for this. With a permanent marker Draw a few circles and two Xs across the heatsink or CPU. This will show how flat it is getting. Which will also determine whether not to move on the next higher grit. It will rub off so you will have to continue making circles continuously until you reach your last few grits. Also rotate it 90 degrees every so often. To get even results. Use none to light pressure, because when you are moving back and forth the sandpaper will move, sanding the edges. At the end you can sand in circular motions. Finally DO NOT USE METAL POLISH. It creates small pockets in the metal.

After 1000 grit you will spend a lot more time trying to get it flatter/shiny. When I did it with my Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro I spent almost four hours all the way up to 2000.

Also your local auto parts store will sell single sheets of sandpaper for less than a dollar. If you are doing your both CPU and heatsink one sheet will do since they usually sell them in square foot sheets. Just make sure you ask for wet dry sandpaper.
Edited by aksthem1 - 6/7/11 at 12:09pm
    
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post #26 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by aksthem1;13786975 
No.

[Snip]

Thanks. +REP. I'm just going to buy the kit linked. I figured I might as well get it shiny since I'm lapping it anyways. The shinyness will also help when I sell my HS later; I'm guessing I could probably get more money for my HS then I paid.

On a side note, I will not be lapping my CPU. Don't want void the warranty, and most importanty, I want to be able to resell it on eBay.
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Ol' Betsy
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