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The First Build: A Disaster Waiting to Happen - Page 3

post #21 of 61
Thread Starter 
Also, does it look like I mounted the 212+ fan on the correct side of the heat sink?
post #22 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite Jest View Post
Also, does it look like I mounted the 212+ fan on the correct side of the heat sink?
Nope. It should be on the other side blowing thru the heatsink and out the back of the case for best temps.

Ideally what you should do with a new system is place the motherboard on a wooden or plastic table (not the anti-static bag it comes in as that is only anti-static on the inside), install all of the components, plug the psu in, then fire it up to verify that it works. If it does, mount it in the case.

There is a very good reason for this. If you mount it in the case first and it doesn't fire up it makes figuring out what the problem is much more difficult. It also takes the case itself and the font I/O panel cables and power/reset switches and hd/power led's out of the equation as sometimes they are bad. If it works out of the case then doesn't in the case you know you either have a short between the mobo and the case or a bad connection to the front. Anyone who knows what they are doing will do it this way. Some people will tell you it isn't necessary, but they are incorrect and don't know what they are talking about. One should do things right the first time instead of doing them over to fix the problems they created by doing it wrong the first time.
Edited by PapaSmurf - 6/13/11 at 9:32pm
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442
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Q6600
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
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CoolingOSMonitorPower
Stock pfsense Acer H233H Antec EarthWatts 430 
CaseAudio
custom onboard 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 B3 Lapped @ 3.4 GA-EP45-UD3R EVGA 9600GSO 384m 96SP 4G (2x2) Patriot Viper PC2-8500 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
80g Maxtor, 320WDC. 320Seagate NEC ND-3550 & LiteOn CM Hyper 212+ w/PP Blademasters XP Pro SP3 
MonitorPowerCase
Acer H233H Rosewill RG630-S12 NZXT BetaEVO 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
E6420 GA-P35-DS3L GeForce 7300LE 2G PNY PC2-6400 
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80Gig WDC SATA NEC ND3540A Win 7 Ultimate 64bit/XP Pro Acer H233H 
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post #23 of 61
i just built a similar machine with z68 and a 680 gtx , my interior is a lazy mess thoug hahah
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Kara
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post #24 of 61
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaSmurf View Post
Nope. It should be on the other side blowing thru the heatsink and out the back of the case for best temps.

Ideally what you should do with a new system is place the motherboard on a wooden or plastic table (not the anti-static bag it comes in as that is only anti-static on the inside), install all of the components, plug the psu in, then fire it up to verify that it works. If it does, mount it in the case.

There is a very good reason for this. If you mount it in the case first and it doesn't fire up it makes figuring out what the problem is much more difficult. It also takes the case itself and the font I/O panel cables and power/reset switches and hd/power led's out of the equation as sometimes they are bad. If it works out of the case then doesn't in the case you know you either have a short between the mobo and the case or a bad connection to the front. Anyone who knows what they are doing will do it this way. Some people will tell you it isn't necessary, but they are incorrect and don't know what they are talking about. One should do things right the first time instead of doing them over to fix the problems they created by doing it wrong the first time.
Damn! Wish you had been here before when I asked that question. Anyway, I think I'm going to wind up taking the mobo and everything out of the case to RMA the case thanks to the the broken top. I guess that will give me a chance to test the thing out of the system. Is there any kind of guide for doing this safely and methodically (especially being a first time builder)?
post #25 of 61
Thread Starter 
I talked to newegg customer service and they are covering the shipping fee back to them and allowing me to refund the case and order the same one so I don;t have to wait for the RMA to process. Go newegg!
post #26 of 61
Thread Starter 
Also, should I be mounting the PSU (when I get the replacement) so that the intake fan is pointing to toward the mesh vent on the bottom or toward the mobo?
post #27 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite Jest View Post
Also, should I be mounting the PSU (when I get the replacement) so that the intake fan is pointing to toward the mesh vent on the bottom or toward the mobo?
Either is totally fine. Most would mount it so that the fan was against the mesh.
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SuperMegaPwnsauce
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post #28 of 61
Thread Starter 
Updated: 6/14
post #29 of 61
How you mount the PSU depends on the surface the case is on. If it's a hard surface then it's normally better having the fan face the bottom of the case to allow it to draw cooler outside air in to keep it cooler. If you have the case on a carpeted flow, especially carpet with deeper pile the pile can block the air inlet causing the PSU to overheat so in cases like that one would either need to put something like a piece of wood under the case or mount the psu with the fan pointed up.

I'm sure there are guides for running a computer case less (a lot of benchers and system builders do it quite regularly), but I don't know where one is at the moment. But it's basically very simple. Take the box the motherboard came in and set it on a table. Place the mobo on it and align the left edge with the side of the box to allow the tab at the bottom of the graphics cards (and other PCI and PCI-E) devices room so the cards will seat completely in the slots. Plug everything in and use a small screwdriver to short across the two power pins that the cable from the cases power switch connects to to start the system. The main thing is to make sure that you don't have any small children or pets around that could get access to the system like that and possibly knock it off the table/desk/workbench or get their fingers/paws/etc. into anything. While you need the cpu heatsink/fan connected, you shouldn't need any case fans.

Just make sure you don't place things with exposed electrical contacts like the motherboard, hard drives, etc. on any metal surfaces which could possibly cause them to short out. A lot of people will pickup a kitchen cutting board made out of thick plastic or a block of wood to put things on as they are non conductive and protect the table/desk surface from scratches. I used to have one of those but lost it in my last move and haven't gotten around to replacing it yet.

And be careful that you don't leave any cables dangling over the edge of the table/desk/bench that you could accidentally catch and knock the whole works off and damage anything.

For the most part, it's just using a little common sense and not getting into too big of a hurry.
442
(15 items)
 
Q6600
(14 items)
 
Piece O' Crappola
(13 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q9550 E0 DFI LanParty LT P35-T2R 2 x HD4670QT512P CF Patriot PVS24G8500ELKN 
CoolingOSMonitorPower
Stock pfsense Acer H233H Antec EarthWatts 430 
CaseAudio
custom onboard 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 B3 Lapped @ 3.4 GA-EP45-UD3R EVGA 9600GSO 384m 96SP 4G (2x2) Patriot Viper PC2-8500 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
80g Maxtor, 320WDC. 320Seagate NEC ND-3550 & LiteOn CM Hyper 212+ w/PP Blademasters XP Pro SP3 
MonitorPowerCase
Acer H233H Rosewill RG630-S12 NZXT BetaEVO 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
E6420 GA-P35-DS3L GeForce 7300LE 2G PNY PC2-6400 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
80Gig WDC SATA NEC ND3540A Win 7 Ultimate 64bit/XP Pro Acer H233H 
PowerCase
Antec Earthwatts 430 none 
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Reply
442
(15 items)
 
Q6600
(14 items)
 
Piece O' Crappola
(13 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q9550 E0 DFI LanParty LT P35-T2R 2 x HD4670QT512P CF Patriot PVS24G8500ELKN 
CoolingOSMonitorPower
Stock pfsense Acer H233H Antec EarthWatts 430 
CaseAudio
custom onboard 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 B3 Lapped @ 3.4 GA-EP45-UD3R EVGA 9600GSO 384m 96SP 4G (2x2) Patriot Viper PC2-8500 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
80g Maxtor, 320WDC. 320Seagate NEC ND-3550 & LiteOn CM Hyper 212+ w/PP Blademasters XP Pro SP3 
MonitorPowerCase
Acer H233H Rosewill RG630-S12 NZXT BetaEVO 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
E6420 GA-P35-DS3L GeForce 7300LE 2G PNY PC2-6400 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
80Gig WDC SATA NEC ND3540A Win 7 Ultimate 64bit/XP Pro Acer H233H 
PowerCase
Antec Earthwatts 430 none 
  hide details  
Reply
post #30 of 61
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaSmurf View Post
How you mount the PSU depends on the surface the case is on. If it's a hard surface then it's normally better having the fan face the bottom of the case to allow it to draw cooler outside air in to keep it cooler. If you have the case on a carpeted flow, especially carpet with deeper pile the pile can block the air inlet causing the PSU to overheat so in cases like that one would either need to put something like a piece of wood under the case or mount the psu with the fan pointed up.

I'm sure there are guides for running a computer case less (a lot of benchers and system builders do it quite regularly), but I don't know where one is at the moment. But it's basically very simple. Take the box the motherboard came in and set it on a table. Place the mobo on it and align the left edge with the side of the box to allow the tab at the bottom of the graphics cards (and other PCI and PCI-E) devices room so the cards will seat completely in the slots. Plug everything in and use a small screwdriver to short across the two power pins that the cable from the cases power switch connects to to start the system. The main thing is to make sure that you don't have any small children or pets around that could get access to the system like that and possibly knock it off the table/desk/workbench or get their fingers/paws/etc. into anything. While you need the cpu heatsink/fan connected, you shouldn't need any case fans.

Just make sure you don't place things with exposed electrical contacts like the motherboard, hard drives, etc. on any metal surfaces which could possibly cause them to short out. A lot of people will pickup a kitchen cutting board made out of thick plastic or a block of wood to put things on as they are non conductive and protect the table/desk surface from scratches. I used to have one of those but lost it in my last move and haven't gotten around to replacing it yet.

And be careful that you don't leave any cables dangling over the edge of the table/desk/bench that you could accidentally catch and knock the whole works off and damage anything.

For the most part, it's just using a little common sense and not getting into too big of a hurry.
I appreciate your feedback! I had mounted it fan-down in the defective case before I sent the case back to newegg, so I was just confirming that I was doing the correct hing (I have hardwood floors). Tomorrow I'll put everything back together and plug everything in (still have to do that ) and give it a shot. A couple of more questions for ya, too (don't worry I reped you!). Is it worth putting some kind of improvised filter between the mesh vent and the psu fan? Also, should I expect to have a lot of unused cables coming from the psu with the parts in my rig below?
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