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Worth upgrading to Cat 6? - Page 2

post #11 of 15
Hi,

Yes it is worth going for Cat6E, but even Cat5E will work (with some if not all) Gigabit Enabled Routers which run at 1000mbps or 1gbps speeds and trust me all my network is at that speed (wired) and it never ever lets me down...

Onto the routers Cisco are pretty good over here (UK - Linksys), Netgear do a lot of Gigabit routers - it is just a matter of opinion and what you want to use the network for...

I have anything from 1 - 5 Home Computers on my Home Network, including my Sig Rig, but I also have a separate Work Network which is a LAN and on a separate Cisco Business Switch and I can have upto ten devices on that; running at 1gbps and I have never have any lag or slowdown issues, most of my cables are Cat5E and above and my main ADSL2+ Wireless Modem Router is a Linksys (by Cisco) WAG320N Dual-Band Wireless-N ADSL2+ Wireless Router and she has never let me down...

Also it depends on what you are getting are you cable, FO Cable or ADSL...
    
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post #12 of 15
e stands for enhanced so you should be fine with the current cabling.

And your Gigabit should do well. Unless you are running fast SSD's or RAID setups you won't reach/surpass the Gigabit limit. Thats 125MB/s. For reference, the Caviar Black 1tb and Samsung Spinpoint F3 1tb both have read speeds a little over 100mbs and those are without other files being read at the same time, i.e. storage drives.

And even then, its a hell of a lot less waiting than the 12.5mb/s for 10/100 ethernet, or 20-25mb/s for usb2.0

So I think you'll be fine.
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post #13 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrilmak;13852319 
One of the cables says Cat 5e. Another says Cat 5 350mhz enhanced... So I'm assuming that's Cat 5e?

Cat 5 is usually sold as Cat 5e most all places now-a-days.
Cat 6 has more twists per inch. The theory is that it will do higher transfer rate with improved EM isolation.

Cat 5e I think is 350
Cat 6 is 550.

Fluke networks make cable ceritifiers that you can look at to improve your knowldge of this topic.

I don't know if cat 6 has by default a separator in the cabling. Basically this is a + looking piece of plastic. The idea is to make it even better at eliminating cross-talk.

I rec. that if you buy cat 6 cables you get them with molded jackets all the way over the connector. This will help eliminate near-end cross talk.

You only need cat 6 if you are using jumbo frames (network packet sizes over the standard - I think 1492 or something) or require it's EM isolation.

Jumbo frames will only help with file transfer speeds - it's not really necessary for average use (streaming movies, playback).

If you do decide to jump to 8-9k packet sizes you'll need special switches and NICs. If you don't know how to use Cisco IOS for their switches I'd then rec. a HP ProCurve switch.

Some plenum-rated cables have the + separator by default as well.

There are a few routers I remember a while back using Cat 6 as the switch section, but they were made by D-Link and I don't ever recommend people buy anything they make, it's just crap.
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post #14 of 15
As stated, you should be fine with the Cat5E as you have listed.

I'd go with Cat6a if you were looking at 10 gigabit equipment, although extremely expensive at this point in time.

Also as far as the stated jumbo frame support, you should be able to saturate gigabit without them, depending on transfer speeds of your storage on both ends of the link. You do not need anything special.
Quote:
Originally Posted by t0adphr0g;13851913 
How long are your wire runs going to be?

Less than 1000ft, get 5e
More than 1000ft get 6
I hope you mean 100 ft..
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post #15 of 15
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys +rep to you folks. I appreciate it and I learned a whole hell of a lot more than I asked. I'm grateful smile.gif
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