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How to decide on a case for air cooling (warning - pics) - Page 40

post #391 of 2110
Quote:
Originally Posted by Velathawen;15013789 
Have you looked into replacing the stock Lian-Li fans that came with the K62? I love how quiet the stock fans are, but I'm wondering if I could squeeze a bit more airflow out if I looked into some replacements. I read in the K62 thread that the stock fans are actually rebranded Yates that can do up to 51CFM.

Yep. I'm actually goin to try slowing down that fan. I remove the front panel last night and noticed air was flowing out of the 5.25 bay. frown.gif that's with a 1300 rpm noctua in there. Also removing the back pci vented slot covers to see what that does. And yes, I would like to replace stock fans with more efficient ones but won't have any rig $$$ for awhile. smile.gif

The journey continues...

UPDATE: I'm thinking about moving the TY-140 from the top intake to either the drive bay or behind the HDD cage. With the top panel on it's really noisy, but when I remove it everything noticeably quiets down. I may even try replacing the front 120 intake with it. I know the TY-140 is not touching the top panel and may try something like this or one of these to see if that helps. Kinda bummed at this point after spending the $$$ to get everything and have this issue. frown.gif
Edited by solsamurai - 9/22/11 at 9:55pm
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post #392 of 2110
Hey guys! After lots of looking through this thread I decided I wanted a case that would exemplify the cooling concepts embodied in the thread and here's my plan. I bought a Nzxt Source 210 Elite



Three AP-14s intaking in the front.
One Nzxt 120mm intaking from the bottom
One Nzxt 140mm intaking from the front top
One Scythe Kaze Maru 2 800mm intaking from the side

And the exhaust being served by my 212+ with two AP-14s. I also plan on removing the PCI vent covers. My card is a Gigabyte 560ti which vents some of it's heat back into the case.

The bottom/lower front/side intake will (I think) not only help bring fresh air into the graphics card but the positive pressure will force any air exhausted back into the case from the card out the back. Currently my graphics card runs warmer than it should because the negative pressure keeps warm air in the case. The top and top front intake will bring fresh air directly to my 212+.

What do you guys think?

Plans for the future

-Replacing the bottom fan with a 900rpm Kama Flow 2 fan, one T.B Silence 140 for the front top.
-Soft-mounting all of the fans with Nexus Fan mounts.
-Cutting out the grills for the rear and front fans.
-Getting some basic sound dampening foam. (Not so much for sound dampening but it'll be an attractive way to dampen any vibrations from my hard drives and a good way to cover the rear top slot)
-Making sure the intakes are filtered.

Thanks for any insight or advice!
Edited by Siegfried262 - 9/23/11 at 5:37pm
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post #393 of 2110
Thread Starter 
Remove your PCIE slot covers.
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post #394 of 2110
Hey ehume, what do you suggest I do about the airflow issues noted in the update to my above post? Temps aren't bad just want to get the air flowing correctly.
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post #395 of 2110
well if it is close to another fan than it might be interfering with the airflow. is there a picture? i was slightly confused about your description
   
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post #396 of 2110
Sorry my OS HDD died shortly after I installed the new side panel and top intake. So haven't been able to post pics 'til now. Here's what I have and will post some pics tomorrow.

Front panel intake top 120mm @ 1300 rpm
Front panel intake bottom 140mm @ 1000 rpm
Top front intake TY-140 @ 1300 rpm (having issues with m/b PWM function)
Back top slot blocked
Silver Arrow with 2x TY-140 in push/pull @ 1300 rpm
Side panel with botton intake 140mm @ 1000 rpm
Rear 120 slot open with no fan
Rear PCI slot covers removed

So what's currently happening is when I remove the front panel i can feel air flowing out from around the sides of the front intake top 120mm (mounted with zipties).

EDIT: Here's a pic of the side panel. Sorry again for the lack of pics until tomorrow.
Edited by solsamurai - 9/23/11 at 7:12pm
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post #397 of 2110
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by solsamurai View Post
UPDATE: I'm thinking about moving the TY-140 from the top intake to either the drive bay or behind the HDD cage. With the top panel on it's really noisy, but when I remove it everything noticeably quiets down. I may even try replacing the front 120 intake with it. I know the TY-140 is not touching the top panel and may try something like this or one of these to see if that helps. Kinda bummed at this point after spending the $$$ to get everything and have this issue.
I suspend my top intake fan (a TY-140) with these.
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post #398 of 2110
I would try that but it's a 140mm fan slot so nothing would line up with the TY-140's screw holes. I have only a few mm's from the top of the fan to the top panel itself. I cut up these really cheap rubber coasters I had for make shift vibration isolaters but it made the fan too tall. I'm hoping something like the links posted above will do the trick.

Will try to post pictures tomorrow to better illustrate the situation. I also may try moving the TY-140 to the front top intake slot and place an unused stock 140mm back in the top panel front intake. Lol, now I'm getting confused.
Edited by solsamurai - 9/23/11 at 9:07pm
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post #399 of 2110
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by solsamurai View Post
I would try that but it's a 140mm fan slot so nothing would line up with the TY-140's screw holes. I have only a few mm's from the top of the fan to the top panel itself. I cut up these really cheap rubber coasters I had for make shift vibration isolaters but it made the fan too tall. I'm hoping something like the links posted above will do the trick.

Will try to post pictures tomorrow to better illustrate the situation. I also may try moving the TY-140 to the front top intake slot and place an unused stock 140mm back in the top panel front intake. Lol, now I'm getting confused.
Hmm. I'm thinking Erector Set:



Or a mending plate:



Or Get a solid piece of metal and drill your own holes.

I'm thinking four of them, attached to the 140mm corners of the K62, extending into the open space in the middle. Hang the TY-140 from those.
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post #400 of 2110
I know where to get small, custom pieces of acryllic that may be easier to drill through. Would be a little easier to clean up. I live in an apartment and can't drill something like metal. Those mending plates look interesting though. If I can find the right size they would be perfect. Thanks for the suggestions ehume!
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Mugen (Retired)
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Phenom II X4 955 BE GIGABYTE GA-890GPA-UD3H MSI R7870 Hawk CORSAIR XMS3 16GB 
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Samsung 830 Series SSD Western Digital Caviar Black Western Digital Caviar Black DVD-RW HL-DT-ST GSA-H60L 
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Thermalright Silve Arrow (TY-140/TY-150) Bitfenix Spectre Pro 200mm Phanteks 140mm Thermalright TY-150 
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Windows 7 Professional BenQ GW2450 Microsoft Sidewinder x4 Corsair HX650 
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Corsair Obsidian 650D RAZER DeathAdder Focusrite Scarlett 8i6 M-Audio AV30 Studio Monitors (upgrading soon) 
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Windows 7 Professional BenQ GW2450 Microsoft Sidewinder x4 Corsair HX650 
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