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Extremely high temps. - Page 4

post #31 of 38
Which way are you pushing water? From the RES to the CPU?
post #32 of 38
Thread Starter 
Think I set it up as Res/Pump-Rad-CPU-Res/Pump.
So, all I had was some 70% alcohol. Tried that, wiped everything clean, had no plastic as stated on the block, did a pea sized dot based on that video, replaced the block back on, and still hit 92-93c.
Is there something I should notice with the pump to realize it's working? Like should something be moving/spinning, ect? I can't really tell if it's working or not since it's so quiet.
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post #33 of 38
Can you hear water moving? Pumps have a little bit of a hummm... Also, you'll hear water sprinkling through the system for a few hours after the initial fill.
post #34 of 38
Thread Starter 
Alright, I think I figured out the problem. Hopefully...
So, I tried to jump start the psu with only the pump connected. I didn't hear a humming at all. Go back to the connector and it seems one is actually being pushed down so it's not making contact. I took the plactic part off, since part of the metal connector was bent, pushed those two pins into the port, turned back on the psu, and could hear the pump "humming".
Now... Is it bad if I were to leave the plastic piece off? I'm not sure I'll be able to get the metal connectors to plug into the port with it on.
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post #35 of 38
I have the same kit and here is a way you can verify if the pump is working, as i suspect it is not. Turn your whole case onto its side so the window on the front of the res is down, the Pickup for the pump is right where this window is. The return coming into the res will then be at top and in open air and you will be able to see if water is coming into the res from the return line. Obviously cap the res first.

Epic Illustration:
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post #36 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRocksMyLyfe View Post
Alright, I think I figured out the problem. Hopefully...
So, I tried to jump start the psu with only the pump connected. I didn't hear a humming at all. Go back to the connector and it seems one is actually being pushed down so it's not making contact. I took the plactic part off, since part of the metal connector was bent, pushed those two pins into the port, turned back on the psu, and could hear the pump "humming".
Now... Is it bad if I were to leave the plastic piece off? I'm not sure I'll be able to get the metal connectors to plug into the port with it on.
Just reattach the plastic and bend the medal pieces, you should be okay... Glad you figured it out if all else fails, electrical tape around the medal pins and hide it lol

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post #37 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRocksMyLyfe View Post
Alright, I think I figured out the problem. Hopefully...
So, I tried to jump start the psu with only the pump connected. I didn't hear a humming at all. Go back to the connector and it seems one is actually being pushed down so it's not making contact. I took the plactic part off, since part of the metal connector was bent, pushed those two pins into the port, turned back on the psu, and could hear the pump "humming".
Now... Is it bad if I were to leave the plastic piece off? I'm not sure I'll be able to get the metal connectors to plug into the port with it on.
I believe you are talking about the male end of the 4-pin connector coming from the pump. Sometimes you have to angle these going into the female 4 pin connector so that the pins actually go into the female end correctly. If you forced it in it is possible the male pin came out of the connector because it was not aligned correctly. I would try to get this connection made utilizing the plastic sleeve on the connector. If not then i guess you could jerry rig it up with electrical tape.
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Hyper
(15 items)
 
Tank
(14 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-5930K @ 4.7GHz 1.3v Asus X99 Deluxe EVGA GTX 980ti SC Kingston HyperX Predator DDR4 3000Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SM951 NVME 512GB 840mm of Monsta Rads, 2x VPP655 D5 Pumps w/ Bit... Windows 10 VG248QE GSync 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Ducky Mini 60% Seasonic 1050W SnowSilent Caselabs SMH10 Logitech G303 
Mouse PadAudio
Steelseries Dex Creative SB-Z 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel I7-5820k Asus X99-M WS EVGA Nvidia 980 Superclocked 16GB G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4 3000 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
1x 256GB Samsung 840 Pro ; 6 x 6TB HGST Desksta... Corsair H100i GTX Windows 10 60" Panasonic Plasma (TC-P60VT60) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech Illuminated Living-Room Keyboard K830 Seasonic 860W Platinum Fractal Design Node 804 Logitech Illuminated Living-Room Keyboard K830 
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N/A Denon AVR‑X4100W  
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post #38 of 38
Thread Starter 
My bad, yes. I did mean the male end of a 4-pin connector. I just couldn't think up what it was called.
Anyways! Managed to get the connector back on with the pins going into the female 4-pin.
Plugged back in all the power cables to the PSU, turned it on, went into BIOS and now I'm sitting at 34-35c.
Guess all it was, was that the connector wasn't making contact and thus the pump wasn't working. Although I'm sure re-doing a TIM application using a different method has helped out, as well.
Thank you all for all the tips and help. I really appreciate it!
My System
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 2500k @ Stock ASRock Z68 Extreme4 EVGA GTX 570 G.Skill Ripjaws 8GB(2x4) 1600Mhz 
Hard DriveOSPowerCase
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB Windows 7 64-Bit Corsair AX850 Cooler Master HAF X 
  hide details  
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My System
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 2500k @ Stock ASRock Z68 Extreme4 EVGA GTX 570 G.Skill Ripjaws 8GB(2x4) 1600Mhz 
Hard DriveOSPowerCase
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB Windows 7 64-Bit Corsair AX850 Cooler Master HAF X 
  hide details  
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