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Great gpu temps, mediocre cpu temps? - Page 4

post #31 of 51
I think you seem decent, though the CPU temp is a wee bit high for my tastes. I've got my i7 960 OC'd to 4.15 GHz for every day use (just under a 1GHz OC from stock). I've got an almost identical setup to you, though I've 2 full cover GPU blocks (XSPC Razor 6970s) and the XSPC CPU Block. My CPU runs at 40c idle, and spikes too 59c at full load. My GPU (the first, and hottest one- both are slightly OCd though), sits at 36c, and spikes up too 44c at full load. I've got a 4 monitor system, so it's got a lot of heat to get off. My loop is Res/Pump -> CPU -> 240 rad -> GPUs -> 360 rad -> res/pump. I've got the X2O 750 pump as well, and it seems to be working quite well. Ambient room temp for these temps is 23.3c (74f).

Hope this helps, and good luck!
post #32 of 51
Thread Starter 
You know, I didn't think about this till now, but could my pump be malfunctioning? I did notice that the pump is very quiet, maybe too quiet, like it isn't running at 100%.
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post #33 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Behemoth777 View Post
Okay guys, I got the temps.

At idle:
Water temp 91.3f
Intake temp 92.2f

At full load:
Water temp 99.8f
Intake temp 100.0f
this isnt possible.. This the intake? or exhaust?

>.<

because that would mean your water temp is colder then the ambients.

Then yeah, id think possibly your pump isnt connected....
Can you check the molex... feel the pump... it should vibrate if its on.
Edited by NaeKuh - 6/17/11 at 9:08pm
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post #34 of 51
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh View Post
this isnt possible.. This the intake? or exhaust?

>.<

because that would mean your water temp is colder then the ambients.

Then yeah, id think possibly your pump isnt connected....
Can you check the molex... feel the pump... it should vibrate if its on.
I think the temps are a little inaccurate, since I took the temps right next to my psu's exhaust. Ambients in the room though were around 85f though. Does that make any difference?
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post #35 of 51
+1 for a new pump.

While the XSPC Rasa blocks and rads are pretty good, I've heard so many horror stories regarding pump failure/performance issues. If your water temp is that low at load, it seems like you're not transferring enough heat from your CPU to your rads. (Depending on how long you are running the benchmark of course.)

I would also look into grabbing some in-line temp sensors. I love the ones below as they plug right into any universal temp probe device and help when trying to troubleshoot stuff like this. (I'm using 3 on my Lampstron FC5 and loving it.) Just some food for thought!

You can nab the sensors (they're super easy to install) at Sidewinders.
Link
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post #36 of 51
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Edited by coolhandluke41 - 6/18/11 at 12:25am
    
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post #37 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Behemoth777 View Post
I think the temps are a little inaccurate, since I took the temps right next to my psu's exhaust. Ambients in the room though were around 85f though. Does that make any difference?
85f as in 30c ?

and your water is 100f as in 38c at load ?

read my previous post man, I have more or less the same hardware going at roughly the same overclocks, and at 27.5 water (10c less than yours) my hardware (CPU and GPU) is also about 10c lower than your CPU and GPU

so unless there's something wrong with my setup ( ) I'd say your temps are pretty much exactly what can be expected at your high ambient temperatures ...

only thing you can do if you can't drop the ambient (airco) is add more fans at high rpm to bring your water-ambient delta down, but I don't think you can improve more than a few degrees there

reseating heatsinks and more pumping power can always gain you some degrees ofcourse, but 100f/38c water is simply quite hot on a really warm day (which doesn't happen often here ) I'm stuck at the same temps
Edited by n0n44m - 6/18/11 at 4:11am
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post #38 of 51
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by n0n44m View Post
85f as in 30c ?

and your water is 100f as in 38c at load ?

read my previous post man, I have more or less the same hardware going at roughly the same overclocks, and at 27.5 water (10c less than yours) my hardware (CPU and GPU) is also about 10c lower than your CPU and GPU

so unless there's something wrong with my setup ( ) I'd say your temps are pretty much exactly what can be expected at your high ambient temperatures ...

only thing you can do if you can't drop the ambient (airco) is add more fans at high rpm to bring your water-ambient delta down, but I don't think you can improve more than a few degrees there

reseating heatsinks and more pumping power can always gain you some degrees ofcourse, but 100f/38c water is simply quite hot on a really warm day (which doesn't happen often here ) I'm stuck at the same temps
Thanks a lot for your input!

I guess i'll just have to live with what I have, because I really don't have the money to buy a new pump even if it would make a difference.
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post #39 of 51
I don't know if this has any bearing here but thermodynamics are thermodynamics... anyway, I used to build muscle-cars from the 60's as a hobby. I had a '65 Tri-Power GTO that always ran hot and would overheat if I sat at traffic lights too long. I tried better coolants, different mixes, lower thermostats, and I even tried removing the thermostat figuring the water would get cooler if it made it through the radiator more often. Guess what that is wrong, it actually ran hotter without the back flow pressure of the thermostat. So I asked a racing friend of mine to explain this. He said it's simple, the only time the fluid in your car is being cooled is while it's in the radiator. To fast through the radiator and you don't remove much heat. There are physical limits to how fast liquids can cool. That's why Stock car racers put a restricter plug in the car where the thermostat was. They look like washer for a big giant bolt. This slows the flow so the coolant stays in the radiator longer and therefore dissipates more heat.


I don't remember the formula but it was basically the temp of the input fluid, the dissipation capacity of the radiator and the coolant per second, and time duration the liquid was in the radiator. So since were all talking about the same thing only on a smaller scale. Then it would stand to reason that once you know the maximum amount of heat being produced and the maximum amount of heat your radiator can diffuse per second based on temperature differential between ambient and liquid then you determine the best flow-rate to ensure the coolants time duration "in radiator" is close to that duration. In other words if the differential between ambient and water is say 10* and the radiator can cool the coolant 3* per second then 3.33 seconds "in radiator" is the optimal time for maximum cooling. That doesn't mane that the best setting since during that same 3.33 seconds the CPU is making more heat and we need good flow-rates at the block to dissipate that. There is an exact optimal flow-rate for every radiator based on it's ability to diffuse heat and the systems ability to produce heat. My guess is that the flow-rate is somewhere less than 100% capacity and greater than capacity 70% of the pump. You'll have to experiment here a bit... This is based on what I saw using flow restriction on cars. My car required a restricter plug that reduced the radiator hoses input flow in the top of the motor by 20%. On other cars it was sometimes 10% sometimes 30% but it was never 0%. You need to find that optimal flow based on your system and it's environment. This can be found by restricting the flow to the point where temps rise then backing off until they lower. I'll bet you see that it's somewhere in the 10% - 20% range.

If you added a flow restricter you could measure temperature differentials with the flow at 100%, 90%, 80%, 70%, and find the sweet spot between flow rate and heat dissipation that would result in a cooler system. If your temps only go up when restricted then that's easy...it means your pump is not not pumping enough water through your system to achieve maximum optimal cooling for your radiator (your sweat spot is higher that your pump can produce). Get a better pump and tweak your restriction for optimal cooling...


I'm sure this is going to get tons of flames since it goes against the popular thought that "more flow - going faster is better..." but that's wrong and it's well documented in the real world of radiators. It may just be that the pumps used in most water cooling systems for PC are just too weak and therefore are already restricting the flow below the optimal rate for you radiator, but that don't make me wrong...

Oh yah, in the end what finally tamed the heat on the GTO? A very expensive custom made aluminum radiator with a high speed electric fan that ran full on all the time - even at idle, and a 20% restrictor plug... dropped it from 230* F to 195* F at idle which was perfect. Turned in solid 12's in the 1/4mi. bone stock... well except for the radiator...
Edited by baj2k - 6/18/11 at 11:50am
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post #40 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by baj2k View Post

I'm sure this is going to get tons of flames since it goes against the popular thought that "more flow - going faster is better..." but that's wrong and it's well documented in the real world of radiators.
Not flames, just disagreement.

Below is a pic from Martin on Xtreme, where he measured just heat dissipated from rad vs flow. From 0.5 gpm to 4.0gpm, higher flow, slightly better heat dissipation by radiator. This does not even include the better temps from faster flow in waterblock in our loops.

Also, theoretically that argument of ideal/slow rad flow never made sense to me. Water transfers heat instantaneously at the molecular level, and thus water not yet reaching the rad will always be hotter with a larger potential gradient than water already in the rad. So the faster you push the water, the better you maintain the higher heat gradient from water to rad, hence the faster you cool the water. Maybe when we can push fluid faster than molecules can transfer vibration....just not very realistic today.

Edit: Not to mention the OP's problem is his high room ambients near 30C, and rad in back of computer so intake ambients probably at least 32C from heated air, and with his water temp 38C, if 6C delta air to water, doesnt leave much improvement room in radiator department.

Edited by opt33 - 6/18/11 at 12:28pm
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