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Nickel Corrosion? Kill Coil copper coloured - Page 3

post #21 of 56
Could possibly be too much nuke, but like I said on XS, might not even ben silver.
post #22 of 56
Just ditch the silver kill coil for future builds mate. This never happens with an auto coolant mix in your loop wink.gif
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post #23 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matari;13887875 
Could possibly be too much nuke

The trouble with this argument is that, if the Nuke -Cu were the culprit, we'd be seeing similar cases in other peoples' systems as well. It has been on the market since 2006 (and sold thousands of bottles), copper sulfate has been in use since the early days of enthusiast water cooling, and silver has been in use (in one form or another) since the late '90's/early '00's. Nevermind that the OP stated that he added 5 drops of Nuke -Cu to a 5l container of water and used it in multiple systems, with only one of the systems having an issue.

Could be the silver, could have something to do with the OP's reservoir, the Nuke -Cu could be a contributing factor... thinking.gif
post #24 of 56
Petra,

As I stated on XS the silver is suspect. There is no way to rule out PT nuke in this case, without further analysis. The OP needs to make sure the silver is the only damaged. One side note, keep the car coolant in the cars.
post #25 of 56
I have been under the impression that your silver coil isn't supposed to be in physical contact with a dissimilar metal (copper/nickel in this case) especially with deionized water. I don't know if the DI water debate has been decided or not, but it had been long determined that DI water acts aggressively when dissimilar metals are in contact with one another as it "steals" ions from one metal and deposits them on another.

Perhaps someone with more technical knowledge in this matter could pipe in and correct me if I'm wrong about DI Water. smile.gif
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post #26 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by HAF_wit;13889516 
I have been under the impression that your silver coil isn't supposed to be in physical contact with a dissimilar metal (copper/nickel in this case) especially with deionized water.

+1. While it may be trace metals in the silver contributing, I would not place silver in direct contact with copper/nickel/brass.

In finishing sites, or those that plate silver on copper electronics, silver/copper contact is discussed....quote from here
Quote:
When silver is plated over copper there can be an accelerated corrosion of the copper, through galvanic action, at pinholes or breaks in the silver plating {ie substandard plating}. It is then susceptible to the formation of cuprous oxide when stored or used in a moist or high humidity environment. This corrosion is known as "red plague" and is identifiable by the presence of a brown-red powder deposit on the exposed copper.

The reason you can use silver coils without corrosion, is silver is barely soluble in water, less than ppm (though toxic to algae/bacteria even at those low levels) , and it would take years to cause significant corrosion. Direct contact with silver banging against dissimilar metals in res, is another story.

If I were putting silver in res, I would use all acetal res, even if you might get away with copper/nickel/brass res on occasion.

EDIT: and the answer isnt adding anticorrosion/auto fluid as evidence by swiftech GTX which had direct contact with aluminum top/copper bottom and corroded severely even by those using corrosion inhibitors, as corrosion inhibitor passivation is circumvented by direct metal to metal contact....the fix is avoiding direct contact of dissimilar metals.
Edited by opt33 - 6/16/11 at 4:13am
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post #27 of 56
Thread Starter 
I've changed to a Delrin res and Mayhem's Dyes are kindly sending me free silver kill coils and I'll add one in.

I've cleaned up the copper covered kill coil (the 'red plague' mentioned above describes it exactly) and put it back into the Phobya res with the same deionised/PT Nuke I've used in the loop. I'll see what it looks in a month but there's no water circulating and it's sealed so I don't know if that makes a difference.

I've also put the other kill coil I bought at the same time into a plastic container with copper and the deionised/PT Nuke and will monitor what happens with that.
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post #28 of 56
IIRC, cupric sulphate only reacts with Iron, Zinc, Aluminum, Magnesium, Tin and other certain metals. Not silver (EDIT: I think, at least, time to bust out wikipedia). I wonder if gold has similar antimicrobial effects, because gold doesn't tarnish. EDIT 2: Nope, galvanic index is still too big.
Edited by videoman5 - 6/16/11 at 6:12am
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post #29 of 56
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post #30 of 56
OP silver is a very unreactive metal so if you put in in boiling water for 5 minutes I think it will go back to normal, If it works on gold and silver jewellery it should work for this.

If that doesn't work put the coil in boiling vinegar water that might work.
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