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Water everywhere.. :( - Page 11

post #101 of 205
Quote:
Originally Posted by giganews35 View Post
I have it sitting in 10lbs of rice right now.

The discoloring in the biocidal, is that normal? Is that to blame? I will contact FrozenCPU if that's the case.

So for all of us experienced water-coolers here:
Is what's in the quote the reason why the corrosion happened? If you don't think so, what's your theory on this happening?
 
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post #102 of 205
Sorry to hear this happened... However, I'd be more concerned with the corrosion going on... That's looking pretty serious for a loop that's only been in effect for a few months; something is definitely wrong there.

I also use the RASA block with 1/2" barbs and 7/16" ID tubing without clamps... I always considering throwing some on there, but I check it frequently and they never move and are tight... In fact, on my last build I found that from the tubing heating up and cooling down, the tubing was tighter on the barbs when I wanted to remove it than when I put it on since the tubing seemed to have hardened around the shape of the barb; some had to be cut with a razor-knife to be removed even with some heat applied. --Though, ideally if you want to cover all your bases, just in case, use some kind of clamp/tie/etc...

Like many suggested though, dry the parts well and keep them in rice for a good few days to let all the moisture absorb... I would try hard to figure out what the culprit is with the corrosion however, you definitely don't need something like this happening again if say it was bad barbs, bad block, radiator, etc. -In my last build I used Distilled water with PrimoChill dye/antimicrobial... then eventually went to just straight distilled for a while - never any issues there... On my current build I use the PrimoChill PC Ice - which works great; seems to cool just as good as distilled and requires no additives...oh and it's non-conductive (although all liquid can become conductive if micro pieces of metal from your blocks/rad break down into your coolant).
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post #103 of 205
Not using clamps is such a silly idea. Using biocide is silly too.
Edited by Willhemmens - 6/16/11 at 1:35am
post #104 of 205
deleted
Edited by coolhandluke41 - 6/16/11 at 6:41am
    
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post #105 of 205
Thats why i never will go water cooling. All that trouble an heartache ain't worth it.
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post #106 of 205
Wow, I feel sorry for you dude

I know what it feels like! I spilt water over my system + video card and I felt so crap afterwards, but I dried the components out and they worked perfectly!

Distilled water is clean with no contaminants or residue stuff, so if you spill it it might not damage any hardware.

Why use the biocide? Just get some distilled water with silver!!
post #107 of 205
Quote:
Originally Posted by giganews35 View Post
I used Dead-Water PC Coolant Biocide(1 drop per liter) and put the kill-coil in the reservoir. I never came upon a thread or a recommendation against using more than one method. I highly doubt that caused it but maybe.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ore-i-pay.html


http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...il-gunk-2.html


http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...pt-nuke-2.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by allikat View Post
Any biocide that is reactive with copper is a bad move, silver is the safe choice, add a low concentration of PT nuke if you want to be 100% sure. But 3-monthly flushes and a kill coil has kept my loop free of gunk.
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post #108 of 205
I feel your pain buddy.

I had my EK bridge spray water all over my 580's...heart attack city.
But after using a blow dryer on them (low heat setting...high speed) and letting it sit in a warm room for 24 hours, all was well. (distilled only here too)

That corrosion scares me more...do you have aluminum in that loop somewhere?
post #109 of 205
Not reading through the entire thread, but anyway:
First off, the tubing is crap. That tube is probably stiff as hell. Once it gets that way, it will leak or fall off. Switch to PrimoFlex or Tygon for tubing. As for the loop itself, you have to stop that corrosion. I would toss the barbs and get new ones or compression fittings, clean out the blocks of any debris and run coolant in your loop. Everyone seems to want to focus on NOT running coolant, but when you have a issue like this in 3 months, you start seeing in the long run it was worth it. You can clean the copper parts with citric acid is needed, but not running in your loop. As for the parts that got wet, clean & dry them as best as possible and IMO, lay them outside in the sun if you can. They will dry out pretty fast that way.
     
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post #110 of 205
Did the tubing start out clear? I've been running my loop with clear tubing, distilled water, and a couple pure silver bitspower fittings (not even a killcoil) for months and don't have any gunk building up or discoloration. I put the loop together in October last year and have only changed the water once (in February when I moved)...that biocide HAS to be the culprit.
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