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Water everywhere.. :( - Page 12

post #111 of 205
There's a lot of corrosion in those blocks.

Next time try Kill-Coil and distilled.
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post #112 of 205
Kill-koil won't do anything to prevent corrosion...
post #113 of 205
How many drops of dead water did you use. It really looks like my system when I used 10 drops in my small loop.

Less is more when it comes to bio
post #114 of 205
You used no clamps or any other means of securing the piping, on regular barbs?

Somehow i'm not surprised this happend. The system is always under some mild pressure, depending on the size of the loop, too. Plus it can work itself loose through thermal expansion/contraction and/or transport.

I mean really, you can't be surprised.

On the plus, people don't seem to realise how resilient PC hardware can be. For example; i had small, gradual leak over my soundcard and over the course of a week, a puddle had developed on it that i would not have noticed hadn't the card (temporarily) gone quiet.

Dried her off, cleared it up, and the card was as good as new. It even happened for a second time and it still works perfectly. I Love my Asus D2X.

The waterblock responsible i binned (gpu block, sits above soundcard), so it won't happen again.
Edited by Thingamajig - 6/16/11 at 9:23am
post #115 of 205
If the computer was off I don't see what the worry is. Unless water got in the PSU. For instance, manufacturers wash graphics cards....As long as you dry it completely before turning it back on you'll be fine. I spilled water in my cpu socket just the other week and waited 1 day with a fan over it and all is well.
post #116 of 205
The computer was on. That said there is still a pretty good chance the stuff still works.

The corrosion in the loop is another matter entirely. I've never seen anything like it. Looks like your were running brine.
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post #117 of 205
The OP said his PC was on, he woke up to snap crack pop. Most of the gear is probably done for. I would never advise going clampless. However, in this case, I clamp probably would have not lasted long due build up in pressure from the corrosion. As for the reason for the corrosion, that is up for debate.
post #118 of 205
Quote:
Originally Posted by giganews35 View Post
Good point. I need to buy a pressure relieve valve. And I definitely will use some kind of clamp or compression fittings. But I am sure the tube popped out of the corroded side for a reason. And the corroded barb became that way for a reason, and it looks like it was that crap that is in the biocide that caused it.
I'm not sure what the relief valve will do to help... the pressure from normal flow exerts a very slight outwards and forward force on the tubing and that's what I was talking about. Looking at those barb pics again, it certainly seems like that build-up at the throat of the barb is what contributed the most. Which one of them blew out? But it seems like a classic straw that broke the camel's back situation... a lot of little forces added up.
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post #119 of 205
Always, ALWAYS use clamps, compression, or zip-ties, even it is 7/16 tube over 1/2 barbs, always use something.

The tube seems tight when you pull on it, but that's just it, you are pulling on it, which causes the hose diameter to lessen and tighten over the barb, making it seem nice and tight, and sound. But here is the thing, when your hose pops off it is isn't being pulled on, rather, the water pressure is pushing on the inside walls of the tube--which is now warm and soft from the running system--expanding the diameter of the tube, which then allows it pop off of the barb easier. So, in order to combat this, you need a clamp, compression fitting, or zip-tie, etc. to keep the hose nice and tight over your barb, so regardless of how soft the tube gets, how much pressure is inside the hose pushing the walls outward, the tube will stay just as tight over the barb as day one, preventing it from easily coming off due to these types of circumstances.

Like many others have said, there is a good chance that the hardware will still work, or at least most of it. But my take is that if water got in the PSU, I would consider buying a new PSU regardless of whether it works or not. But in regards to the other hardware, I'd bet on if you get everything nice and dry before you attempt to power it back on, it will still work. I had a pipe bust above my computer once and it soaked my running system, and once I got it all dry, everything but my monitor still worked for close to 8 years, lol. I don't like to toss out old hardware Best of luck.
Edited by svthomas - 6/16/11 at 11:20am
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post #120 of 205
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ezveedub View Post
Not reading through the entire thread, but anyway:
First off, the tubing is crap. That tube is probably stiff as hell. Once it gets that way, it will leak or fall off. Switch to PrimoFlex or Tygon for tubing. As for the loop itself, you have to stop that corrosion. I would toss the barbs and get new ones or compression fittings, clean out the blocks of any debris and run coolant in your loop. Everyone seems to want to focus on NOT running coolant, but when you have a issue like this in 3 months, you start seeing in the long run it was worth it. You can clean the copper parts with citric acid is needed, but not running in your loop. As for the parts that got wet, clean & dry them as best as possible and IMO, lay them outside in the sun if you can. They will dry out pretty fast that way.
But if you have read the thread you would have known I did not use the RASA kit tubing. That is Tygon tubing
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