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Test PSU

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
I have a PSU laying around that I want to sell to give me budget for an upgrade but I wanna test it first before selling. How would I know if it's not a BAD psu?

HISTORY: I built my rig back in the Philippines where we use 220V. When I moved back here in the US, for some reason my computer would not post. I tested the PSU on a 20pin (not 24) motherboard and it powered up. I contemplated that my board died on me got an RMA. I don't know what killed my board either during the shipment (plane as a baggage, static?) or from the psu (from switching to 220 to 110 though it's autovolt). I occasionally use it to test fans and stuff.

After I got my RMA I bought an HX1000 just to make sure I won't be having a troubles. The local PC store couldn't tell exactly what killed my board he said something about my psu having the 3v (or 3.3v?) a reading LITTLE below normal. Still he couldn't give me a straight answer.

edit: PSU is HEC Cougar 700w 80Plus bronze
http://hecgroupusa.com/products/swit...s/cougar700cm/
Edited by bl1tzk1213g - 6/16/11 at 6:21pm
Silent White
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Silent White
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post #2 of 5
http://www.overclock.net/faqs/96712-...upply-psu.html

here

That'll test if it works. I'd guess a multimetre on each output would be the only way to check it 100%
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post #3 of 5
You could go grab a old POS motherboard, and then run furmark and IBT to stress it out. There really is no way to be 100% certain. Maybe look into RMAing it with the original manufacturer.
post #4 of 5
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by makecoldplayhistory View Post
http://www.overclock.net/faqs/96712-...upply-psu.html

here

That'll test if it works. I'd guess a multimetre on each output would be the only way to check it 100%
It runs, I use it to power up and test my fans and pump and stuff. I don't have a multi meter, fail.

Quote:
Originally Posted by noak View Post
You could go grab a old POS motherboard, and then run furmark and IBT to stress it out. There really is no way to be 100% certain. Maybe look into RMAing it with the original manufacturer.
That is the problem though... I don't have a spare motherboard to run 24 pin. Though I've tried booting a 20pin motherboard (amd athlon xp) and I got it to post on bios
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Silent White
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Samsung 960 EVO NVME EKWB Supremacy EVO Full Nickel EKWB Titan X Nickel/Acetal Hardwarelabs Black Ice GTS360 x 2 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Corsair SP120 Performance Editions PWM x 6 Windows 10 PRO Asus PG279Q Corsair STRAFE RGB MX BROWNS 
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EVGA Supernova 850 G3 Phanteks Evolv ATX Corsair M65 Corsair MM300 
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post #5 of 5
Thread Starter 
If it worked with the main 20pin connector and posted does it mean it's working?
Silent White
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Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Samsung 960 EVO NVME EKWB Supremacy EVO Full Nickel EKWB Titan X Nickel/Acetal Hardwarelabs Black Ice GTS360 x 2 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Corsair SP120 Performance Editions PWM x 6 Windows 10 PRO Asus PG279Q Corsair STRAFE RGB MX BROWNS 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
EVGA Supernova 850 G3 Phanteks Evolv ATX Corsair M65 Corsair MM300 
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Logitech G930 Wireless Headphones 
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Silent White
(17 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Ryzen 1700 Asrock X370 Taichi Nvida Titan X (2016 Pascal) G.Skill Trident-Z 3200mhz 16gb 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Samsung 960 EVO NVME EKWB Supremacy EVO Full Nickel EKWB Titan X Nickel/Acetal Hardwarelabs Black Ice GTS360 x 2 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Corsair SP120 Performance Editions PWM x 6 Windows 10 PRO Asus PG279Q Corsair STRAFE RGB MX BROWNS 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
EVGA Supernova 850 G3 Phanteks Evolv ATX Corsair M65 Corsair MM300 
Audio
Logitech G930 Wireless Headphones 
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