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Amplifier for B&W 685's - Page 2

post #11 of 22
Fill your stands with sand, place heavy slates on top of your speakers. If your main listening position is infront of your moniter I'd move the right hand speaker out of the corner and next to the desk so both speakers are equidistant to your ears, obv toed in and tweeters at ear height, maybe putting your speakers upside down if that helps.
I've got the same speakers and a good amp makes a load of differnce, I got the cambridge audio 640a v2 that has a Toslink so you can use the dacs in the amp. http://www.whathifi.com/reviews/hi-fi/hi-fi-amplifiers is a brilliant site for this sort of thing http://www.whathifi.com/review/rotel-ra-04se looks snazzy but if you want 5.1 then a 2 chan amp will be redundant, you might be better off looking at getting a better receiver, depending on what you're actually going to use it for.
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post #12 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by astrallite;13915591 
More or less. The speakers should be toed in and in front of him, not to the sides. Otherwise he's just listening to room reflections.

exactly
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post #13 of 22
I suggest a digital amp. I'd look at something from www.classdaudio.com I suggest the SDS-254 kit. Then you're gunna need a preamp. Take a look at the Nelson B1 Buffer Preamp. Then you're gunna need a DAC. For the money the Audio GD NFB-12. Some of Kingwa's DAC can operate as preamps. The "B1 buffer" is a famous pre though... one of the best possible in terms of electronics. Nelson Pass is a GOD of audio design right...

Kingwa's NFB-5 for $330
Class D Audio SDS-254 $320 Tom also sells finish amps for $500 bucks. IMHO they are better $/duty than even the Emotiva XPA series!!! and that's saying something!!!

Those are very nice speakers and you'll be shocked at how much better they'll sound with transport and amplification like I list above. An Audio Video Receiver would be no match and to get the same level of SQ you'd have to spend many thousands of dollars more than the gear I list above.
Edited by HiroPro - 8/26/11 at 4:32pm
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post #14 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiroPro;14717494 
I suggest a digital amp. I'd look at something from www.classdaudio.com I suggest the SDS-254 kit. Then you're gunna need a preamp. Take a look at the Nelson B1 Buffer Preamp. Then you're gunna need a DAC. For the money the Audio GD NFB-12. Some of Kingwa's DAC can operate as preamps. The "B1 buffer" is a famous pre though... one of the best possible in terms of electronics. Nelson Pass is a GOD of audio design right...

Kingwa's NFB-5 for $330
Class D Audio SDS-254 $320 Tom also sells finish amps for $500 bucks. IMHO they are better $/duty than even the Emotiva XPA series!!! and that's saying something!!!

Those are very nice speakers and you'll be shocked at how much better they'll sound with transport and amplification like I list above. An Audio Video Receiver would be no match and to get the same level of SQ you'd have to spend many thousands of dollars more than the gear I list above.

What exactly is the purpose for a pre-amp? I have always heard/seen them in peoples systems, but I don't know the function.

Do you have experience with the amp kits that you described? It looks quite interesting and I have always wanted to build my own amp.

I really do like the speakers, even through my old A/V receiver. Although I now have a slightly better Harmon Kardon A/V reciever. They still don't sound quite as they did when I auditioned them at the store (they were using a nicer A/V reciever). So I know they have more potential. Thanks for the help.
Edited by buddyboy - 8/27/11 at 11:27am
    
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post #15 of 22
Pre-Amp
A pre amp usually has two main functions. It acts as a switch for different sources. It is used to attenuates the amplitude of your speakers (volume) via voltage gain as the level level out for most devices is fixed. Your current "receiver" (people call them 'amps') is a pre amp, processor and amp in one. We called them "receivers" and the term comes from the 70s when you would integrate a pre-amp with a radio tuner. Today people call them AVRs or Audio Video Receiver but the general term for an integrated unit is "receiver". When you have them in different chassis it's called "separates" and IMHO is the ONLY WAY TO FLY.

Yes I am familiar with those amps and the SDS-254 is just friggin AMAZING! It has a liquid tube like sound with no noise floor. It's DEAD quiet even with the volume at unity gain. It also has a very special balanced input. It would best be paired with Kingwa's NFB-10wm as it has balanced outs and a great pre-amp section with a stepped relay dale volume that's microprocessor controlled. It offers a fantastic headphone amp and even ACSS output. You'd have to spend at least $3k to get something similar. The SDS-254 and NFM010wm would set you back $1500 bucks and would compare to systems costing $10,000 to well over $20,000 dollars!
Edited by HiroPro - 8/28/11 at 11:12am
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post #16 of 22
This proposed transport and amplification would IMHO best $30,000+ boutique equipment.

PC(WASPI Exclusive via BASS Library)-->Halide Design SP/DIF bridge-->Kingwa's NFB-10WM(as pre/DAC)-->Class D Audio 2 x SDS-254 bridged (monoblock) with dedicated Audio Power DPS-500-S SMPS per module. Speakers would be Jed Kuntz's Duet 10A or Symphonia series with a Raal ribbon tweeter.

Total price tag in around the $10,000 mark and I don't believe it's possible to get better sound no matter how rich you are and how much your willing to spend. With the $1500 bucks I propose your 3/4 of the way there less the expensive speakers and the special Streamlength TS1020b USB to SP/DIF bridge. Understand the gear I speak of is really HIGH-END.
Edited by HiroPro - 8/28/11 at 11:30am
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post #17 of 22
Put some acoustic panels on your walls first to start off. That will make a bigger difference than some incremental amp/pre-amp upgrades.
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post #18 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by astrallite;14754016 
Put some acoustic panels on your walls first to start off. That will make a bigger difference than some incremental amp/pre-amp upgrades.

I agree. Take a look at speaker positioning as well, if feasible get them on a good pair of stands because that can make quite a surprising difference.
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post #19 of 22
Thread Starter 
I may try making some acoustic panels of my own in the future for sure. Where are acoustic panels normally placed? in the corners? directly behind the speakers?

As for speaker placement. I want the speakers to form an equilateral triangle with the listening position correct? And from there the speakers should be at least a couple feet from any wall?

Also, are the stands I have for them now not good for some reason? They are PVC pipes filled with concrete (one stand weighs around 30-40 pounds?) and a piece of wood on either end.
_DSC0028-1.jpg
    
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post #20 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by buddyboy;14790057 
I may try making some acoustic panels of my own in the future for sure. Where are acoustic panels normally placed? in the corners? directly behind the speakers?

As for speaker placement. I want the speakers to form an equilateral triangle with the listening position correct? And from there the speakers should be at least a couple feet from any wall?

Also, are the stands I have for them now not good for some reason? They are PVC pipes filled with concrete (one stand weighs around 30-40 pounds?) and a piece of wood on either end.
_DSC0028-1.jpg

For the panels, you want them on the walls so that if you were sat in your listening position and the panels were mirrors, you would be able to see the speakers reflected in the mirrors from where you are sat.

Ideally they should be away from rear and side walls by at least 1 foot, if I remember correctly the 685s are front ported which means they will be OK a little closer to the rear wall than rear ported speakers.

I didn't realise you had stands, I can't see any pics here at work. So long as they acoustically isolate the speakers from the floor and are stable then they should be fine smile.gif
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