I was recently after a new pump to replace my EK DCP 2.0 for my next upgrade and so I decided to buy a DDC-1T from bmaveric here on OCN. I knew before buying that these pumps are known for being quite loud, with a particularly annoying high pitched sound. I wanted to hear it in person to decide if I could live with it, and sure enough when I got it I found that it really is quite annoying to me. Please note that this in no way reflects badly on bmaveric, the item was exactly as he described, the price was good and the service excellent.
The solution? Change the PCB.
DIYINHK offers a Sanyo PCB replacement on his eBay store for $9.95. This mod has been reviewed in detail by Martinm210 on his blog, so I don't intend to go into any real detail about noise, performance or directions. I intend to give my experiences with the mod, from the sellers to the work and any little things I found odd.
So without further ado, some pictures:
Here is the original PCB in place. Note that this is the DDC-1T, so it is different from the MCP350 / 355 which are based in the DDC-3 series.

I found it quite hard to pop the coil arrangement out. The way I did it was by cutting the small bit of glue round the edge with a knife, prising the four tabs apart and inserting a screwdriver under the coil (marked in red).

It is glued in pretty well, but eventually it came out:

Flipping it over again and there are 12 coil wires and 4 (one already done in pic) in / output wires to un-solder.

Once the wires are un-soldered the PCB need to be taken off the coil. It is very well glued on there and I actually ripped two of the components off the old PCB doing this. No turning back now!
Old PCB on the left, new one on the right. Note how few components are on the new PCB compared to the old one. Less things to fail is always good.

That was the easy bit, now for the harder bit. I had to extend 3 of the coil wires, one because I cut it by accident and two because they were too short. I used a strand of wire from a multi strand cable to do this, and soldered the joint. Sadly I forgot to take pictures of it, so you will have to use your imagination.





The solution? Change the PCB.
DIYINHK offers a Sanyo PCB replacement on his eBay store for $9.95. This mod has been reviewed in detail by Martinm210 on his blog, so I don't intend to go into any real detail about noise, performance or directions. I intend to give my experiences with the mod, from the sellers to the work and any little things I found odd.
So without further ado, some pictures:
Here is the original PCB in place. Note that this is the DDC-1T, so it is different from the MCP350 / 355 which are based in the DDC-3 series.
I found it quite hard to pop the coil arrangement out. The way I did it was by cutting the small bit of glue round the edge with a knife, prising the four tabs apart and inserting a screwdriver under the coil (marked in red).
It is glued in pretty well, but eventually it came out:
Flipping it over again and there are 12 coil wires and 4 (one already done in pic) in / output wires to un-solder.
Once the wires are un-soldered the PCB need to be taken off the coil. It is very well glued on there and I actually ripped two of the components off the old PCB doing this. No turning back now!
Old PCB on the left, new one on the right. Note how few components are on the new PCB compared to the old one. Less things to fail is always good.
That was the easy bit, now for the harder bit. I had to extend 3 of the coil wires, one because I cut it by accident and two because they were too short. I used a strand of wire from a multi strand cable to do this, and soldered the joint. Sadly I forgot to take pictures of it, so you will have to use your imagination.








but I ordered the DIYINHK Sanyo PCB anyways. 






Had to chisel them and the excess glue off. At least all of the leads are intact. The rest should be cake now. *cross fingers*