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DDC-1T PCB mod - Page 2

post #11 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buska103 View Post
How does this compare to the MCP35x, besides the fact that the 35x is PWM?



I'm interested in paying half as less and losing the PWM feature, especially since I'll be killing the warranty on the 35x anyway..
35X is more powerful, but this is comparing an 18 watt pump vs 10-12watts so not really an apples to apples electrical/noise comparison. The 35X at 100% is pretty darn powerful, not the quietest at full speed either though, so you have to consider a few other things.

I made a quick plot below:

Edited by Martinm210 - 7/14/11 at 7:00pm
    
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post #12 of 17
Huh, I thought it was more appropriate to consider the 35X/DDC 3.25 a 20 watt pump since that's its spec in Laing's brochure.
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post #13 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chunky_Chimp View Post
Huh, I thought it was more appropriate to consider the 35X/DDC 3.25 a 20 watt pump since that's its spec in Laing's brochure.
Depends on restriction. Under very high restriction it's 15watts. Under very low restriction it is 21 watts. I just called it 18 because that has been the normal convention for the higher speed DDCs such as the DDC 2/3.2/3.25 etc.
    
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post #14 of 17
Ah, that makes sense. As I said though that's DDC 3.25 spec in their brochure, 20 watts maximum.
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post #15 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mysterion View Post
Yup. Couldn't resist. Broke off two FETs just like the OP. Had to chisel them and the excess glue off. At least all of the leads are intact. The rest should be cake now. *cross fingers*
Yeah, that is exactly what I did. I used a fine file to get the excess glue off, worked better than using a knife for me. I found the rest pretty straight forward.
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post #16 of 17
What I like about doing the Sanyo mod is the fact the PCB is superior over the Laing PCB. The Sanyo offers not only better flow, it provides overheat protection, far better copper trace thickness, and straight maximum power transfer. One other BIG benefit is the startup delay is 0.1s. Better than the Laing.

One thing the Laing pumps of all the DDC series are prone to, the click-click-click stuck rotor issues. When the Laing PCB heats up too much, this condition is the death click. Sometimes a smack with a screw driver handle can revive it, but you would have to monitor the pump and to smack each time the pump needs to be restarted. The SANYO PCB has protection against this.

DIYINHK has done their homework for making this PCB. There are a few hundred thousand DDC-1T pumps in existence. Rather than tossing a pump away, it would be best served to just do the mod.
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post #17 of 17
Looking forward to the new DIYINHK site for these pump PCB coming soon once again. thumb.gif

keep an eye out for DIYINHK.com
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