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Apparently broken 24" LG --- Any ideas on trying to fix it? - Page 4

post #31 of 42
I think most of those things are matter of preference, I know animal has been soldering things for about as long as myself and we've working up our own preferences.

In the past I have been more partial to solder braid/wick than suckers, but I might get one of those to try it. I'm interested in them because they have a smaller tip, where my previous had larger holes that never picked up the little stuff.
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post #32 of 42
sounds like the backlite power inverter....they have universal ones fairly cheap....let me see if I can find a link to the company I use
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post #33 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwoodz View Post
You can replace a cap without a soldering iron.I fixed a dell panel this way.Take it apart,separate the PCB and bake it.When it's hot enough you can remove the cap and insert new one.
just make sure you dont have the board upside down,or all the little parts will fall when the solder melts.Don't ask me how I know.
Now that sounds like something I would do... but would realize it in thought just as it happened.... [opens oven door to find parts on floor of oven]
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post #34 of 42
ok heres their troubleshooting page which should at least point you to right part http://lcdparts.net/howto/default.aspx
hopefully it'll help
Edited by mrinnocent - 6/25/11 at 3:09pm
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post #35 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwoodz View Post
You can replace a cap without a soldering iron.I fixed a dell panel this way.Take it apart,separate the PCB and bake it.When it's hot enough you can remove the cap and insert new one.
just make sure you dont have the board upside down,or all the little parts will fall when the solder melts.Don't ask me how I know.
Sounds like a recipe for a cold solder joint. The OP is trying to fix it, not cause more trouble. Buying a cheap soldering iron is a good investment.
post #36 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drizzt5 View Post
Yes it is that logo exactly. It seems the only caps that are failing are the samwha caps.

So maybe I should just replace the 2 that I circled in a stupidly small red line on the bottom?

One is obviously busted.
Yes, those 2. I would just replace the ones that are bad. Why take the chance on lifting a trace off the board or pulling a plated-thru hole out of the circuit bd? Chances are, the 3300uf 10v caps weren't rated high enough anyway, voltage-wise.... i.e. they cheaped-out and bought too low a rated part.

I would also replace them with a like rating (3300uf) very important! and at least a 12v rating for safety and longevity sake.
post #37 of 42
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fir3Chi3f View Post
It irks me whenever I can't find the exact value on those sheets (link on the previous page), but yeah those dimensions should work. Based off those dimensions, the replacement cap should have about ESR/Impedance: ~0.07 ripple: ~1300

http://www.rubycon.co.jp/en/catalog/...minum/e_zl.pdf
I want you to notice something about the caps I'm recommending:

16v 680uF 8x20mm ripple: 1250 ESR: 0.041
25v 470uF 8x20mm ripple: 1250 ESR: 0.041

Notice how the voltage rating and the farad rating are different but everything else remains the same?

I did manage to find two other resellers that others on the badcap forums use.
Badcaps: http://www.badcaps.net/store/product...products_id=50

http://www.mouser.com/
http://www.digikey.com/

Good luck mate, let us know how everything goes!
Quote:
Originally Posted by hollywood406 View Post
Yes, those 2. I would just replace the ones that are bad. Why take the chance on lifting a trace off the board or pulling a plated-thru hole out of the circuit bd? Chances are, the 3300uf 10v caps weren't rated high enough anyway, voltage-wise.... i.e. they cheaped-out and bought too low a rated part.

I would also replace them with a like rating (3300uf) very important! and at least a 12v rating for safety and longevity sake.
I ordered the ones linked in his post.
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post #38 of 42
Good Luck....... I've always replaced caps with the same farad value and same voltage or one with a slightly higher voltage rating. Maybe I'm missing something

At least it was easy finding the problem component You can't miss the bulging case on an electrolytic capacitor. Our Dell GX 260 and 270 motherboards at work had a notorious reputation for doing this exact same thing. I bet that cost Dell some $$$ to fix
post #39 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by hollywood406 View Post
Good Luck....... I've always replaced caps with the same farad value and same voltage or one with a slightly higher voltage rating. Maybe I'm missing something

At least it was easy finding the problem component You can't miss the bulging case on an electrolytic capacitor. Our Dell GX 260 and 270 motherboards at work had a notorious reputation for doing this exact same thing. I bet that cost Dell some $$$ to fix
@hollywood406 - Another recapper? Nice, it always feels good to fix a $150+ piece of equipement for $8-$10 Replacing with the same farad value is what I used to do also, but I'm trying to learn more and it looks like the better method is to go by 'ripple' and 'ESR' or 'impudence' rating, which are not on the label.

Yeah, I've read quite a few articles about Dell and their capacitor problems. They certainly aren't the only company that put out hardware with bad caps, but they put out a whole lot of them.

I love this quote from the wikipedia page 'Capacitor plague' http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
"Circa 2005, Dell spent some US $150 million replacing motherboards entirely and another $150 million on the logistics of determining whether a system is in need of replacement."
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post #40 of 42
Incase there were any doubts, I wanted to let you all know that I did get one screen done with the method used here and all seems to be well. Capacitors are used in these boards to "clean" the incoming power and their farad value (their capacity to store energy) isn't an accurate measurement of such capability.
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